Tasted in Vougeot with Eva Reh, 15 November 2021.
Domaine Bertagna
16 Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
Tel: +33 3 80 62 86 04
www.domainebertagna.com
More reports with Domaine Bertagna
Eva on 2021:
“2021 was a bit less than half a harvest – at -7°C the candles couldn’t do much to save us. It’s bad for everything now; labels, capsules, packaging, pallets – we are short of everything. I can make up orders for France but I’m still missing the capsules for export – 2021 has been very complicated!”
Eva on 2020:
“2020 was a small harvest. It was a dry year and we were very early in the vines to harvest – we started 04 September. We didn’t have a lot of grapes but the quality was superb and so clean too – needing almost no triage and giving us deep colours.”
The wines…
It’s been a few years since I last visited. Today the villages and 1er crus are mainly very good – but there are also a few great wines – and not just in the grand crus.
2020 Chambolle-Musigny
Quite a perfumed nose with lots of depth – the vines approaching their 100th anniversary! Silky, wide, layered – thats a super texture and depth of flavour, faintly saline finishing.
2020 Vougeot
Vines in the bottom of the village.
Again lots of perfume, a little wc but only 10%. Also perfumed in the mouth. An extra freshness and plenty of energy. I like the finishing line and intensity it’s a lot like the Chambolle before.
2020 Vougeot 1er Petits Vougeot
Separated by the Vouge from Les Amoureuses
Deeper, darker, this with a little reduction. Intense, vibrant more overtly concentrated. Super again.
2020 Vougeot 1er Clos de la Perrière
Broader and quite complex a vibrancy of fine fruit, almost floral accented. Really fresh and wide, quite dynamic, chalky, finishing bitters – that’s quite super but most definitely for keeping. So very long…
2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Murgers
‘I find the aromas of Vosne here and with finesse in 2020. Old and young vines vinified separately.’
Lots of colour. Darker, deeper fruit but no sign of reduction. A little gas and quite a massive constitution – so concentrated and with graphite in the finish. A big but still balanced wine.
Deep colour again. Dark fruit again but here with a shape that’s a width more than a depth. Vibrant, faintly gassy super texture – grainless tannin. Potentially a great wine!
2020 Corton Les Grandes Lolières
Bought in 1994 with their Charlemagne
An almost impenetrable colour. Really wide, energetically complex. A little dryness of tannin but hardly any grain. Mouth-filling and freshly concentrated. So impressive but so for keeping too. So vibrantly fruity in the finish, slowly mouth-watering. Be patient!
Vines between Chateau La Tour and the Château de Vougeot, all destemmed, plenty of remontage.
Very fine, concentrated but almost delicate aroma – a concentrated yet elegant nose. Nicely structured – I love the shape of this, so juicily flavoured too – bravo!
Between the village and the vines of Rousseau
Vibrant. An impression of gas, oak and stems – that’s not an easy nose today. But fresh, direct and wonderfully textured. The most obviously calm and the zen-like palate is marvellous – so harmonious – The nose has to come together but when it does – bravo!
Les Whites:
2020 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeot
A nose that becomes more and more floral perfumed – starting with a suggestion of rigour but it’s soon gone. Softness but also lots of flavour depth. And very long
2020 Vougeot 1er Les Cras
Planted after the frost of 1984/85
More together, this nose with a core of very approachable fruit. Fresher, more direct, more precision too – I like that a lot – hard to find great Côte de Nuits chardpnnay but this is excellent, with complex fruit, slightly honied but an attractive structure that brings it together. Very tasty…
2020 Corton-Charlemagne
This nose brings a different world of chalk and flowers and fine energy. Airy, mineral, leaching fine citrus fruit ( unlike the more exoric of the last). Faintly creamy accented in the finish. This is lovely…