Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Pierre-Jean Roty, 10 November 2021.
Domaine Joseph Roty
24 Rue Mal de Lattre de Tassigny
21220 Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 34 13 59
More reports with Domaine Joseph Roty
The Rotys of Gevrey work in their own way, which means they like to show wines when they are ready for the market – so no 2020s here, rather the 2019s!
Pierre-Jean on 2021 & 2020:
“21 a bit more than 50% after a rigorous selection, it was 50% or a bit less in the previous vintages too so the deficit of wine is quite consistently growing here. The 2020s are still very young and maybe to exceed the 2019s we taste today, but let’s see…
There was the episode of covid-confinement in 2020 but the vines were already starting to move – they were a couple of weeks ahead of an average year – very precocious. A year with heat but even more-so of drought. But good pinot, small to medium grapes and extra millerandes, because of that not much more than half of a normal harvest though and that means less than in 2003. We have a lot of older vines which support very well the dryness but all the vines with the heat delivered less juice. Still the chance for a great vintage – maybe 1996 again? Let’s see…”
Pierre-Jean last year on 2019:
“2019 was about the heat, the big heat. A particular climate with 3 waves of strong heat. The spring brought a rewarming of the wet soil and at the same time the racking of the 2018s. After came some risk of frost, which brought some coming together of younger vignerons working together to protect their investments in buildings and vines – I don’t think the burning of the straw helps, but the windmills seemed to work quite well. The vines pushed abundantly, treatments often at 4 or 5 am to work precisely in the vines out from the full heat – there was little rain in the summer season. The harvest began 20 September with no loss of the quality in the skins but some roasted grapes from the sun – we had some similar roast grapes the last time in 2012. Triage was relatively easy though, the harvest lasting 8 days with just a big rain while we were harvesting the Bourgogne – no blockage noted in ripening – like we had a little of in 2018. A good vintage underway. The colours seem even more than in 2018, the fermentations started nicely, slowly, and then took off!”
The wines…
This domaine is famous for the amount oak that is sometimes visible in their wines, but this year the marrying of oak and wine has been brilliantly done – even for the single barrel of Griotte which is new oak – it’s simply not visible, even at this young age. A brilliant range of 2019s. Buy what you can…
As I’m sure you’re all aware, 2012 was the first vintage where this label came into being; a replacement for the old Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire label. In this case, the wine is 100% pinot noir.
Airy – already delicious smelling, faintly perfumed. Direct, full of fresh energy. Mouth-watering, lovely grainless texture. Vibrant – that’s great CB
2019 Bourgogne Rouge
From vines in the Marsannay Rosé appellation which are being promoted to Marsannay rouge, but declassified here.
That’s a narrower, faintly spiced nose. Extra width, still the freshness, here a fine grain to the tannin – but vv fine – or maybe that should be tvv fine! Super extra growth of flavour with a touch of salinity…
All from the bottom of Gevrey.
A core that’s a little sweeter and softer – nice clarity. Fresh, sweeping, extra-fine texture – that’s such sophistication of texture. So beautifully, exquisitely fine finishing… A great Bourgogne
The domaine have 8.5 hectares in Marsannay:
Mid-slope vines from 5 locations, all of which, potentially, would be Marsannay 1er.
A less open but more concentrated nose, still a purity for this dark-fruited wine. Fuller but still finely fresh, a small size but extra-long finishing flavour, faint bitters and ultra-fine texture again – so sophisticated. Really a great wine, you can be patient as long as you like – or not…
2019 Marsannay Champs St.Etienne
One of the lieu-dits with the oldest history, nuns replanting in the 1600s – just like Chambertin. Not a monopole – there’s one other producer but Roty is currently the only one with the climat name on a label.
Wider, fuller but very fine and fresh – such a lovely nose. Round – quite mouth-filling more layered delivery of flavour. Holding really, really well. That’s another really super wine…
2019 Marsannay Boivin
From the heart of the appellation.
Another tighter but silky nose – quite some depth of darker fruit though. Vibrant – energetic, mouth-watering – almost a dynamic energy here. This is so mouth-watering, slightly tannic finishing. Drink or keep. Holding a strong finish…
2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu
Close to the heart of the appellation!
A little extra floral quality to this wine. Direct, extra freshness – lot’s of acidity but that’s just a fleeting impression as the great, pure darker-red fruit flavour and elegant texture takes over. That’s a super thing…
2019 Côte de Nuits Villages
From Brochon. Have coming some Croix Violette to replace this in the next vintages
A more spiced width of aroma. Where the last couple have been very direct, here is a wine of mouth-watering width. Tannin of no grain and hardly any dryness. Mouth-wateringly moreish again – a really impressive length…
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin
An assembly of vines in different lieu-dits in the centre of Gevrey some deep into the cone of dejection.
Spiced but with a depth of fine purity – that’s a great balance. Extra mouth-filling energy – mouth-watering too. Melting with some fine flavour, slightly but attractively structured. Dark fruit in the finishing flavour and holding so well too – sleek and fresh as all the wines here…
Again the spice, a bit more complexity with a suggestion of tobacco too. So sensuous, silky and attractive. Gorgeously textured wine – only a suggestion of tannin right in the finishing flavours.
The bas is shorthand for villages – the higher part is the 1er cru.
A great nose – what dimension and depth – wow. Mouth-filling – super energy again, meltingly complex and so delicious. That’s great villages…
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Chenys
At the foot of Charmes-Chambertin
A little narrower but still such a lovely and complex nose. Again, volume in the mouth but coupled with airy freshness. Darker finishing, more textured – I think this is good wine… More for keeping a little longer but it will be worth your time.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenys
The nose is a little tighter but the width of flavour is more ample and filling. This is very impressive and tasty wine. Very good…
A note of spice that offers a touch of tobacco. Such a beautiful texture – a wine with almost a halo of bright and pure flavour. Perfectly mouth-watering – not a wine of force rather more complete and sophisticated. Such an elegant but persistent finish – bravo!
Old vines, almost 100-years-old, fortunately in good shape – in the last vintages just 1 barrel – in a vintage with plenty of yield – 1.25 barrels…
A little extra freshness and width to this aroma – very, very classy! So clean and fresh but clearly with much extra density – but so well done – I don’t see the barrel. There’s a little extra tannin that’s visible but this is such a great wine – but so little for the world…
About 60% of the original 1881 vines remain, but some of the replacements are already old vines in their own right. A place with extremities of heat and cold and dryness – it’s this richness that brings the material…
Not the fullest nose but here is a width of concentrated aroma, silky in style. Massive in the mouth yet oh-so balanced. There’s a weight of flavour in the finish but never heavy – the balance is first class and we are seeing only a small part of what this great wine will be. Bravo!
The non-reds:
The only wine missing from the line-up is the aligoté – and that’s because, as usual, it’s already sold-out!
2019 Bourgogne Blanc
80% pinot blanc in here; ‘it was JF Coche-Dury discussing with my father that had suggested that a little more core, a little more fat could come from planting pinot blanc.’
This has quite an ample, forward aroma – round and rich but never heavy. Full shaped, slowly melting. Definitely a rich style but balanced with plenty of acidity and very good energy. Really plenty of finishing flavour – like a pinot – a moreish style to this with a touch of finishing salinity.
2019 Marsannay Blanc
There are two parcels, Boivin and Champs St.Etienne, for this 100% chardonnay.
There’s a stony depth to this nose – some freshness and energy above. Zip, drive, citrus intensity, really mouth-watering and even a small texture of finishing tannin. The burst of finishing flavour is quite mineral and almost steely. Super, super – indeed excellent Marsannay.
2019 Marsannay Rosé
Old vines, over 50 average, from 2 lieu-dits, all pinot – directly pressed from the grapes with the natural colour.
A medium-plus colour – for a rosé. Fresh, direct, completely mouth-watering, a subtle touch of tannin. Almost a juicy style but with such depth and concentration.