Tasted in Morey with Sébastien Odoul, 16 November 2021.
Domaine Odoul Coquard
64 Route des Grands Crus
21220 Morey-St-Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 51 80 62
www.domaineodoulcoquard.com
More reports with Domaine Odoul-Coquard
Sébastien described for me some of the ‘radical’ changes that they’d undergone since I was last here and a little of 2020:
“We have wines that are more direct and have lower alcohol – I’m always looking for the fruit and never more than 50% new barrels, keeping the freshness – it’s the second vintage with temperature control for us too. We lost about 50% of a normal crop in this vintage – it’s been roughly the same for the three years in a row now. It’s hard to retain the morale when it’s obligatory to increase the pricing, but with things in fermage and because of the high bulk prices we have to increase or we lose money. But, I’m really happy with the wines, they are what I like, the clients and journalists come second – you have to enjoy what you do! I compare these 2020s a little with 2011 and 2017 because you can certainly drink them younger – grand crus excepted!”
The wines…
I was away for too long – a simply delicious range that is still under the radar – if you can find them at all!
We tasted all from barrel:
2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Two parcels of vines averaging over 50-years-old
Round, a little chocolate and red fruit aroma. Supple but clean and mobile. Concentrated and long, quite mineral finishing – thats an excellent start.
2020 Morey St.Denis Les Crais Gillon
All single vineyards except where they are too small to vinify. Here 0.6 ha
This is very fine, showing pretty darker berries and florals. I like the cooler style and ultra-faint dryness of tannin – without grain. Really mouth-watering, quite a fine and mineral finish. Excellent again.
2020 Chambolle-Musigny Fremiers
Deeper, darker fruit, with flashes of florals. Concentrated but fresh and energetic too – cool, slowly finishing with spiced layers of flavour and, again, mineral complexity. A big thumbs up from me!
2020 Chambolle-Musigny
‘No choice but to blend these 5 parcels on the Morey side’ – 5 barrels. Average 35-40-years-old.
Perfumed dark fruit and minerals. Super. Plenty of stricture and depth. You can wait as long as you like for these wines.
2020 Morey St.Denis Aux Chézeaux
A little reduction lifts with swirling. Fuller but still freshly vibrant. Plenty of structure with this wine but never too much. Such a baby!
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin
The assembled fruit of 5 parcels.
(I’m sorry if my continued use of ‘fresh’ is too boring but…) Here’s a fresh width of aroma, slightly rounded at the edges but pure. Direct, texturally super, growing a faint but grainless tannin. Yum!
They are over 60 years of age – from 2 parcels – Chalandins and Champs Perdrix
That’s very perfumed the most violets in a glass for a long time, some blackberries too. Wide, slowly mouth-filling vibrant wine for a villages – thats great – quite airy in style but very complex and satisfying. Bravo
2020 Nuits St.Georges Les Athées
30 yo vines
Deep, subtly reduced, but there’s a textural depth to this nose. Cool fruit, almost juicy – slowly growing in the mouth. Just a juicy, juicy, wine. That’s a super finish…
The closest of these Nuits cuvees to Vosne, next to St.Julien
A beauty again – that’s just so Vosne. More structural depth and shape but never hard – chewy but delicious flavour – tart aux myrtille – bravo villages Nuits – even if it tastes like Vosne!
2020 Nuits St.Georges Les Argillas
70-year-old vines, once planted partly with white – (by the Gavignets – they are part of the family)
Airy and super-attractive. Direct, sleek, very fine tannin, growing in intensity – this is the wine most for keeping, but the structure is elegant for Nuits – a Nuits of sophistication, it’s simply excellent.
2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
A higher-toned perfume to this one, quite narrow today. Beautiful shape and with a slowly melting flavour. This is rather discreet today, not fully showing – I think worth returning for…
2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Sentiers
Thats really a burst of fine perfume. Good structure here, a small micro-grain of tannin, always mouthwatering ad very persistent. Super wine…
Thats another aromatic beauty – pure, dark, inviting, accented with florals. Wider, cool dark fruit, sinuous muscle. Great wine. Massive but the balance saved by the direct style of the wine.
2020 Morey Saint Denis 1er Clos Riotte
Airy red fruit but with a special depth – this has my attention! The structure here is very different to the last, but with so mouth-watering flavour. I’d wait at least 5 years but with impatience. Sebastien’s father says he would wait three years!
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
Have 3 parceks in this small 1er
A great nose; delicate, a little reminiscent of a Charmes-Chambertin, charming, floral but never simple. A little more strict in the mouth, only a little – I like that – more mineral, very long. Simply excellent wine again…
2020 Charmes-Chambertin
‘A very delicate wine, 15% Mazoyeres the rest Charmes. 70-year-old vines like in Combottes’
Also charming, a very pretty nose – less forward than Combottes but still lovely. A little more mobile and supple than the last, still structural and pure. The nose of the last was a little better but this is complete class in the glass. Excellent wine!
2020 Clos de Vougeot
A vibrant dark fruit here – super. Direct, concentrated, never heavy, cool fruit, textural – you will have to be patient but this has everything!