Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Sylvie Esmonin, 17 November 2021.
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
1 Rue Neuve
21220, Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 34 36 44
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Sylvie on 2021:
“The wines could be a combination of 2002 and 2017! But 15 hl/ha – I’m very happy with 30 hl/ha as I’ve old vines but 15 is hard…”
Sylvie on 2020:
“28 August we started harvesting, then we stopped for a few days before restarting about the 5th and finishing the 9th. The Côte de Nuits was ripe enough but I felt the need to wait for the others. Lovey conditions for the harvest and such clean grapes too – we just triaged out the middle of the stems for the CSJ. There was nothing particular to remember about the vinifications – not a big harvest with 27hl/ha but I would say ‘correct.’ That said, we have a cold cellar and the malos were very late so there are some not fully done – I have to keep on top of the volatiles but for now all is fine – they are late because we didn’t really have a summer heat in 2021 – maybe I should have warmed the cellar!”
The wines…
Another top-class result chez Sylvie. She’s never shy with her barrels, but like the 2018s and 2019s before, these 2020s have just sucked it all up. Really a lot to love…
2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This from Pressoniers in Gevrey. 0.80 ha – there is a new parcel in 2020 with an additional 0.25 ha – still in Gevrey but closer to the border with Morey St.Denis.
A faint firework reduction but no overt malo. Vibrant, wide yes a hint of malo prickle but this is fresh, concentrated very well textured wine – mouthwatering. Really super Bourgogne.
Here 2 parcels from Brochon. A new barrel but malo done.
Again a slight firework reduction – but a silky width of aroma. Mouth-filling, really vibrant – dynamic! That’s a lovely waterfall of flavour – I love—and I really don’t note the presence of the barrel.
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin
Also old vines the second (VV) villages cuvée is actually TVV says Sylvie. Stony here, ‘Which brings a wine with a little more finesse.’ Malo not long underway.
A round and concentrated nose, only faintly reductive. A great combination of freshness and mouth-filling concentration – at this stage in elevage I find a compelling tension.
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Two parcels of vines of approximately 100-years-old.
A much fresher and more mineral nose. In the mouth more direct, practically linear wine – fresh with fine intensity. A tannin, but no obvious grain. Not austere but most definitely a wine to keep – Malo 50% and a new barrel – the latter I can see but the former, hardly. More direct, I think I see the extra malic acidity in the freshness here – but this will be super wine.
Only just starting malo and also from a new barrel.
A small smoky element from the barrel – a tighter but wide nose – seemingly quite silky. In the mouth, very silky – mouth-filling, very classy wine – it’s not yet about the complexity of flavour but the stance of this wine is on the grand cru level – I expect a great wine
Another look at the 2019s:
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin
A redder fruit and really quite wide and cushioned. Lots of freshness, structural but not too much, really mouthwatering – slightly less sweet but not many will drink this after a 2020 CSJ! Super wine.
An airy style to this, faintly spiced from the barrel – but a fine invitation. Fresh, wide, vibrant. Melting with super flavour – great villages!
Not the largest nose but certainly the most perfumed and inviting! Perfectly formed, structured but not hard. The flavours framed by a reasonable ‘thickness’ of tannin but hardly any dryness and practically no grain. A licorice-laced finish that starts narrow but then widens and widens into the distance – such a baby but with a great life ahead – bravo!