Tasted with Pascal Mugneret in Vosne-Romanée, 17 November 2021.
Domaine Gérard Mugneret
7 rue de la Grand Velle
21700 Vosne-Romanée
Tel: +33 03 80 61 09 95
www.gerard-mugneret.fr
More reports with Domaine Gérard Mugneret
Pascal on 2020:
“In 2020 there’s not a lot – nearly 50% less! There were plenty of grapes but they didn’t really grow and that must be down to the dryness – the volume here is actually similar to 2021. We aim for 35 hl/ha and have a model that works with that – we can do one year with 20 hl/ha but we can’t keep doing it – if the yields remain at this level we will have to change our modes of operation.”
The wines…
When is Pascal not on song? A super range of 2020s with some very covetable wines…
2020 Pourpre VdF
Was the vines for Passetoutgrains (vineyards in Vosne, Flagey and Gilly), but now VDF, more wc, newer barrels. 60% gamay.
Red fruit, modestly cushioned. In the mouth round and showing a good mix of fruit and minerality – there’s energy here. That’s a super tasty start to the day.
2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Three parcels around Vosne and Chambolle
That a much pure line of aroma – lovely. Cooler, more open more clarity of flavour but with similarly good energy. That’s quite a vibrant finish too – excellent wine!
From one parcel in Vosne, opposite the gates of Faiveley’s Clos de Vougeot
A deeper and more mineral nose. In the structure and minerality too – an impression of some whole cluster. That’s for keeping a while but it’s a beauty! Really long too – bravo Bourgogne!
2020 Vosne-Romanée Cuvée ‘Quatrain’
2 parcels from north and two from the south of the village.
A fuller more spiced nose – mineral too. Texturally finer, no grain, but still a cushion from the tannin. Growing in mouthwatering style – not longer but more sophisticated texturally vs the last.
Very different; more vertical but with super clarity and purity of fruit – that impresses a lot – very perfumed – also from the wc. This is more direct, mouthwatering, structured – but not overtly. A cool and direct wine that’s very elegant in shape – very mouthwatering in the finish too. A little tannin showing only in the finish. If it fills out a little, Great Savigny!
2020 Vosne-Romanée Aux Vigneux
Below Suchots near the cemetery
More width of aroma, quite finely textured. I love the mobility of these fresh, cool flavours. Plenty of tannic cushioning but no associated grain. More width and florality in the finish, slowly fading. Super, in a more contemplative style.
From the heart of the village. Pres Folie & Colombière
A nose that’s more compact, more direct, strict even. Structural, slowly melting, mouth-watering, flavour. Really an extra complexity but a wine to wait longer for than the others – austere is too strong a word but you get the idea. Beautifully constructed – wait 5-10 years. In fact Pascal may wait a little longer to bottle this too.
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Murots
There is the wc perfume that links the wines but there is a different style evident too – the shape changes and the width at the base is larger here. Fuller at the base – like the nose, a texture where the tannin is visible – no dryness but a fine, salty, grain. A fine finish. Very good wine
2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
A more powerful and energetic nose. Much much finer tannin in the width of cool, dark-fruited flavour. Again a slightly contemplative but super-fine finish. Excellent Suchots.
Just three hundred metres from the middle of this parcel to the middle of their Suchots parcel.
A little less impact but there’s more complexity here – that’s a beauty. Cooler, fuller shaped, properly complex Vosne. A drag from the tannin but no grain. Wine for keeping. This won’t be peaking for more than 10 years – Maybe 15, but you can happily drink from 5… Top!
2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Slightly wild energy to this complexity of fruit, herb and floral perfume. Cool, wide – more a Suchots than a Brulees structure but with clarity and fine mouth-watering flavour. Charming at the end for sure, even a little layered.
A wide but still quite compact nose – silk, fine, showing the stems the least from all these. Melting stone minerality, cool fruit – perhaps a bit cerebral, but this is my style of wine – more Chablis than Nuits. Beautifully textured, calm but with understated energy. Bravo!
Not a large extra force of aroma but certainly an extra burst of floral complexity, then a slowly growing base of minerality – it’s complete! Not the fullest in the mouth – like the nose – but that’s just the start, this wine grows and grows, structured but barely, tannic but barely but eventually filling all the places in your mouth with complexity. Almost discrete but with everything! Potentially a great Echézeaux
2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Richemone
Separated from the Cras since 2016 – the blend previously called Boudots 😉 – sandier soil and less of it vs in the Cras
No discretion here. Freshness and complexity – frank and attractive. The oak more visible but it will quickly fade – the flavour energy and structure are more obvious. More to find today though less class than the last – but we are clearly drinking these wines in the right order today. I’d wait at least 5 years for the oak to disappear.