Céline et Nicolas Hirsch – 2021

21.4.2022billn

Nicolas Hirsch 2022 Domaine Celine & Nicolas HirschTasted in Chénas with Nicolas Hirsch, 16 February 2022.

Domaine Céline et Nicolas Hirsch
Les Brureaux
69840 Chénas
Tel: +33 3 85 33 50 40
www.domainehirsch.com
More reports with Domaine Céline et Nicolas Hirsch

Nicolas on 2021:
We lost about 50% but it was a bit of everything that contributed to the losses. We look at the 2021s today because the 2020s are all sold out. The 21s have no chaptalization and came in at roughly 12°. 2022 is the year we will be certified organic here!

The wines…

The 21s showed well but were much simpler wines than the occasional 20 or 19 that I compared them to.

2021 Juliénas Bois de Chat
This will be bottled in a month
This has a round red nose – that’s really inviting. Open, easy, a little herby complexity but nice energy here. The finish is a little mineral, partly metallic, slightly austere but actually quite moreish. Good!

2021 Chénas
More reductive. Vibrantly wide over the palate. Red fruit again, the tannin a little more visible. Also a little austere today but with a nice depth of middle and finishing flavour – quite intense here.

2021 Moulin à Vent
From Chassignol – high altitude – 30% destemmed and barrel elevage.
Broad, no reduction. Good aromatic freshness too – of darker red fruit. A little extra sucrosity but still wide and vibrantly energetic. The texture is good, framed with a faint tannin too. That’s very good and no notes from the barrel…

2020! Beaujolais Villages
A Bordeaux shaped bottle but also of clear glass – vines in deeper soil near La Chapelle de Guinchay
A rounder, more concentrated and sweeter nose. Supple, fine texture, concentrated and delicious fruit – much more depth of fruit. That’s excellent!

2019! Chenas Les Brureaux
This one year in barrel now – they have tried to keep one wine that can be sold with a bit more age, and that’s this wine.
Ooh – that’s nice, round, attractive darker fruit with a little spice. A lovely shape that’s much more structural – waves of flavour freshness – a wine for keeping, certainly a little austerity here too but this is excellent – wait 2+ years…

And, le white:

2021 IGP Comtés Rhodaniens Les Terrasses Blanc
Chenas but planted to Sylvaner. The terraces are granitic but it’s a cool place – almost north-facing. The vines are still young so sometimes harvested before or after the reds – higher or lower volumes and degrees – but Nicolas says that vines are starting to take on their proper form.
I loved the 2018 of this but here’s an aromatically much more serious wine – also some rigour but this relaxes well with some air – becoming nicer and nicer. A little gas today, as it fades it’s still got good volume in the mouth. This is clean and quite mineral – but different minerality. For a white, there’s a modest austerity today but this will open out much more over the coming months… I think good…

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