des Nugues – 2020


Gilles Gelin 2022 Domaine des NuguesTasted in Lancié with Gilles Gelin, 10 February 2022.

Domaine des Nugues
Les Pasquiers
40 rue de la Serve
69220 Lancié
Tel: +33 4 74 04 14 00
More reports with Domaine des Nugues

Gilles on 2021:
It’s about 40% less volume than average – but we made a lot less than that in 2003, so it’s not the worst. We worked hard – more people to work the vines than usual but it paid off as I think we have a very nice quality – more material than 2019 and a tastiness that approaches 2020.

Gilles on 2020:
2020 was an easier vintage – that’s for sure. We needed fewer treatments than average but all was early and sunny – like in 2003 there were two approaches – those that went early and those who waited. Like in 2003 I waited for the reds, less-so for the whites. We did need a bit of rain to help de-block some vines – I think it came around ~25 August. We did had some wines over 14° but interestingly they seem fresher than the same from 2018. The balance is impressive as we seem to have the same acidities at the end as at the start – they are rich but they are fresh too.

The wines…

Always an address with fine wines – the 2020 vintage offering something impressively ‘extra’ for the ‘base’ wines here.

2020 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
All from Lancié, on limestone, worked at a low temperature. Blocked half the malo this year.
Broad, plenty of aromatic action here. Broad on the palate too, melting with a nice citrus acidity. Mineral, a hint of rigour but long and actually rather tasty with a little tannin at the end.

2021 Beaujolais-lancié Rosé
Made in the same low-temperature way as the blanc. Just a few days in bottle.
A very attractive nose of inviting freshness. Direct and juicy – delicious wine – bravo!
2021 Beaujolais Villages Sans Souffre
Also nothing added for the bottling.
Lots of colour. A nice depth of aroma – a cushioned impression but still pure. Hmm, that’s a beautifully relaxed wine over the palate – pure, mouth-watering and absolutely delicious – bravo! A steal from the domaine at €8.10!
2020 Beaujolais-Lantignié
Just about to start commercialisation. Like all the BJV here, all is in Lancié.
A more steely width – tighter but with purity. Mouth-filling. Hmm that’s also a super wine in the mouth, very taintly tannic but also a juicy, redder-fruited wine. Completely delicious again – bravo!

2020 Fleurie
Very old vines with 11k density of plantation.
Both broader and deeper. Fuller but with a silky and sleek texture – slowly fading and again with a nice finishing freshness. Very good.

2020 Morgon
A little more open, deeper fruit but again with nice clarity. Hmm – more open, airy but with a modest structure too, modestly but finely mouth-watering – this is also very good.

2019! Moulin à Vent
Just about to be commercialised, from Fromenteau and Burdelines
Airy, modestly spiced, finely complex. Hmm, this is more mouth-filling – plenty of finely divided complexity and a good energy to match. Really super

2018! Fleurie Les Côtes
From Viviers but the lie-dit is this name. 4,5 & 600-litre barrels for 21 months.
Higher toned, a little roast aroma but still attractive. Silky and mouth-filling never heavy – still a little the impression of roast fruit despite how sleek and finely textured. Good

2018 Moulin à Vent Les Burdelines
Two parcels assembled. 70-year-old vines, 11k density.
This is much finer – it’s more rich and complex but nothing roast in these aromas. Super-silky. That flows beautifully over the palate – yes – such fluidity of flavour. Great wine – and give it a few years in your cellar too!

2018 Elle et Lui
VdF Syrah and gamay
A beam of deep fruit here – so different. This also has a lovely, airy style – fluid, fine-textured, mouth-watering. It’s not ‘Beaujolais’ but it’s a great wine of really impressive length.

2015 Beaujolais Villages Quintessence de Gamay
‘It was beautiful after 2 years of elevage but then closed and I didn’t like it for a while but now it’s time to remember it as it’s starting to open again.’
A vibrant mix of dark and black berry fruit. Easy, relaxed texture, mouth-filling, almost a liqueur style to this wine. Not really my style but hyper-impressive wine.

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