Mathieu et Camille Lapierre – 2020


Mathieu Lapierre 2022 Domaine Mathieu & Camille LapierreTasted in Morgon with Mathieu Lapierre & Carrie Marchal, 11 February 2022.

Domaine Mathieu et Camille Lapierre  
Rue Rabelais
69910 Villié-Morgon
Tel: +33 4 74 04 23 89
More reports with Domaine Mathieu et Camille Lapierre

The new dog was on ‘guard’ – well he’s loud enough anyway! Gimly! The old one is still around too.

Matthieu on 2021:
2021 had the lowest impact in Morgon, in a region that was least impacted. About 38 hl/ha was the result for Morgon in general, and we were a bit less. We did lots of triage for mildew – some vines even had oïdium – which we didn’t harvest – for me cleanliness and the triage was the necessity. We needed to be very meticulous – which really wasn’t the requirement in 2020 – but we did longer macerations than most of the previous years. Possibly the wines would have been less interesting if we’d had more yield – but with parameters of alcohol and pH that we haven’t seen for a long time – and I like! – 12.5° and nice energy – it makes me think a little 96 – or at least my dad’s description of it!!

Matthieu on 2020:
2020 was the earliest vintage ever. We can’t compare to 2003 because nobody was ready – we were on holiday – but in 2020 we were already ready to go on the 15th August as we didn’t want to make Beaujolais-du-Pape! They have sold well. We harvested early and did some short vinifications – we reached a certain stage and then pressed, systematically. The fermentations actually went really well and though I had planned probably not to make the natural versions, they got to a good, low, level of sugar so I decided that the stability was there to do so…

The wines…

A shame about the cuvée Camille – often my favourite wine when I tour Beaujolais – but there are enough other great wines to make up for that!

2021 Le Beaujolais
In bottle for 1 week. filtered and 2g of SO2 before bottling. The domaine’s youngest vines – but actually already 20 years old, and in this vintage the replacement for their Raisins Gauloises cuvée. Elevage in stainless steel. These grapes from close to the domaine in Corcelles – a contract.
Aromatically more open, vibrant, and pure. More direct, more precision – that’s just too easy to drink. Super tasty and mouth-watering, with a little, finishing green complexity.* Bravo – that’s really top.
*Subsequent bottles at home – yes I bought some before the last cases exited the domaine – showed the pyrazine greens much more, so I leave the note as written but no-longer class this as a ‘must buy’ wine.

2020 Morgon
This is the sulfur version
Lots of freshness – narrow but nice red fruit. Also fresh, wide, incisive – that’s lovely the fluidty that I really love about the vintage and very fine texture. Bravo!
2020 Morgon (Nature)
The no-sulfur version
Decanted as there was a small reduction. Large scaled – a little reductive but there’s nice purity here too. Pure like the last but more direct, less padding, more overtly mineral finishing. Broad and fine finishing. Again Bravo – but clearly with differences to the last.

2020 Morgon Roche du Py Cuvée Camille
‘A very prudent vinification – we had a little volatiles at the very start – but the wine came through.’
This is fine and fresh, though there is a slightly volatile style to the nose. Lovely shape, scale and texture – but the same slightly volatile impression as the nose in the flavours. Half great – usually it’s all great!

And, why not?:

2019 Morgon Roche du Py Cuvée Camille
Narrow but a deep well of purity too. Direct, fluid so pure so mouth-watering. Finishing with alittle tannin but here a sleek and superb wine…
2018 Morgon Roche du Py Cuvée Camille
Broader, fresh red fruit, lots of complexity – fine. Again – so silky, cool fruited but here is a width rather than completely direct in style. Growing more and more. That’s a great 2018 – so concentrated but also so accessible. Properly vibrant finishing despite some stricter finishing tannin like the 2019.

Marcel Lapierre MM XVIII (2018!)
A nose of freshness and clarity like the others, but more floral, more relaxed and wide in presentation. Fine – wide, sophisticated texture, a framing of the flavour with tannin. Vibrantly wide – less strict – but strict is still too strong a word for the 18 Camille…

2014 Morgon (Nature)
Open, again fresh. Driving and energetic, no lack of tannin too. So mouth-watering – almost a citrus accent to this finish

2014 Morgon
The nose is wide again, but airy and turning more complex. A little more supple, the tannin present but no grain.

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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