Georges Duboeuf – 2020


Emeric Gaucher & Franck Dubeouf 14 February 2022Tasted in Romanèche-Thorins with Emeric Gaucher & Frannck Duboeuf, 14 February 2022.

Vins Georges Duboeuf
208 rue de Lancié
71570 Romanèche-Thorins
Tel: +33 3 85 35 34 20
More reports with Maison Georges Duboeuf

Franck on 2021:
2021 was historically difficult – the volume is low like 2003 – though we have less surface area planted than in 2003! It was the frost and some maladies during an early season of rain – we had hoped for better – there was even some hail then a later harvest too – but the end of the season was good allowing good ripening – timing for the harvest was essential though. South of Beaujolais was a little later for the growth-cycle and they did better than the average. Overall, a quality that’s heterogenous and with some pricing that’s a bit high.

Franck on 2020:
Certainly not a year of record volumes – heterogeneous from the perspective of where there was rain – but the average was 52 hl/ha so still quite good. The older vines resisted the dry and heat the best – no surprise. The vintage has many great qualities – the alcohols are a little higher as a riper year would bring but the wines are very well balanced despite some fermentation issues here and there – both fermentations. They are both crunchy and fleshy with a bit more acidity than 2019 – and there was not a lot to triage. I think 2020 has a bit more actual maturity than in 19 where some of the maturity was via concentration. You sense the maturity despite some places where the maturity was a little blocked…

The wines…

Virtually all the 20s here I wouldn’t be drinking them straight away – 1-2 years of cellar-time for all but the Beaujolais & Beaujolais Villages, I think… There is much high quality wine from this address.

They have moved to DIAM for the whites “as the variation was much higher than for the reds – we can tolerate the reds but it’s too much for the whites.” In terms of the cuvées that we look at, “The Fleur labels are our blended vines. Signature are the more limited cuvées plus the wines we like the most while tasting. Then there are the domaines and châteaus too:”

2020 Beaujolas – Fleur
The first bottle wasn’t right so this the replacement
Classic but inviting cliché nose – even a little floral too. Direct, fine texture, slightly saline. Super-drinkable – I think Bravo for the label.

2020 Beaujolais Villages Fleur
Pretty, pure – nicely direct but still a little shy. Supple, concentrated for the label with depth of flavour, faintly saline too. Mouth-watering in the finish. Easy but beautifully formed!

2020 Beaujolais Villages Coeur de Presse
Broader, silky, darker fruit. More intense with more energy too. This I would keep in the cellar a year or so – but it has fine structural shape and a lot of flavour energy – even some finishing bitters!

2020 Beaujolais Villages Vin sans soufres ajoutées
A rounder, more compliant, almost creamy nose. Hmm – this has a super and incisive attack, redder fruit – super energy – that’s absolutely super and juicy finishing.

2020 Beaujolais Villages Signature
A more classic BJ nose but also infused with super-attractive floral notes. Mouth-filling, concentrated but with a fine base of acidity. Really wide and vibrant finishing – a great finish – simply and excellent wine!

2020 Chiroubles – Fleur
Extra colour – extra depth to these aromas too. The concentration and matching energy are certainly on a higher level – as they should be. Rounder but never soft and with a fine middle and finishing intensity – really very good.

2020 Domaine des Petites Violettes, Chiroubles
A father and son production team making wines ‘with a traditional approach.’
A slightly smoky extra depth to this nose. A little more overt structure here, less fine clarity of fruit but here is mid-palate concentration with very good energy. Structural, maybe a hint less sophisticated than the ‘Fleur’ but flavour-packed and energetic.

2020 Brouilly – Fleur
Cleaner, more pure, nicely open. Super texture with a growing intensity and concentration without fat. Vibrant finishing – that’s a really very tasty wine.

2020 Brouilly Domaine de Lafayette
A deeper and broader nose – the first impression of a slightly more cooked style of fruit – tarts – but growing an attractive extra floral dimension. More supple and fluid over the palate, this feels great in the mouth. Fine texture and insinuating, long, finishing. Bravo!

2020 Brouilly Pisse Vielle
An extra-cliché Beaujolais nose with a little added florals too. Mouth-wrapping – a more present structure and tannin. A wine of freshness and good flavour energy – but keep it in the cellar for a couple of years.

2020 Côte de Brouilly – Fleur
Ooh – now that’s a nicely open blend of fruit and flowers – yes! Direct, a little mineral, really mouth-watering. Holding an intensity in the finish too – it needs to open out a bit more in the flavours but I think it has all it needs! It could be excellent!

2020 Fleurie – Signature
The most aromatic power so far, a subtle reduction and higher fruit tones accented with some salinity. Supple, concentrated but a nicely alive feel from the energy. This is more than very good!

2020 Fleurie – Fleur
Here the nose is less forward but red-fruited and I still sense the saline accents. Structurally quite padded and velvet. The finish is really super and intense – also for keeping a little while…

2020 Fleurie Chateau des Déduits
Modest but attractive high tone – more bass in the depth. That’s a great shape in the mouth – so much volume, but so fresh which balances the rich concentration perfectly – even subtly minerally mouthwatering in the finish. Very good!

2020 Fleurie Domaine Quatre Vents
‘Very traditional – they haven’t changed their approach for almost 3 generations.’
A little reductive but at the same time displaying a fine violet perfume. Packing a powerful punch, still a little reductive but with a super blend of texture and concentration. Intense and persistent finishing too – this will make an excellent wine in a couple of years…

2020 Fleurie La Madone Clos des 4 Vents
Much more aromatic purity, still with some nice floral accents. Mouth-filling – impressively so. Tons of energy. A little less flavour purity than the nose but what an impressive drive and shape all the same – very tasty wine with a structure that suggests waiting 18-24 months…

2020 Morgon Domaine de la Chapon
An airy nose, with a little floral extra. Supple, a concentrated and nicely direct, incisive flavour profile. Structural finishing – nice!

2020 Morgon Domaine Mont Chavy
A nice width here – there’s some serious intent softened by a little floral perfume. Silky but still with a little grainless tannin here that brings an edge of dryness. Structural but with lovely finishing flavour.

2020 Morgon Corcelettes Domaine de Versauds
Again a nicely airy component to this nose. Broad, muscled – wide with energy – only the extra tannin taking the word ‘fluid’ from my description. Powerful and balanced, great wine – even a little mineral finishing.

2020 Domaine Javernière, Morgon Côte du Py
More depth, more aromatic composure. Mouth-filling, full of energy, a little tannin framing the flavours- Wide and building a fine and direct intensity – purity of flavour here. That’s excellent!

2020 Domaine Descombes, Morgon Côte du Py
More openly fruited – purity of vibrant darker-red fruit. Mouth-filling again – as opposed to direct – darker red fruit, supple but fresh and always framed by its small-grained tannin. A lovely finish, saline, complex – that’s beauty here!

2020 St.Amour – Fleur
Deeper fruit – lots of attractive and texturally fine bass-notes. Mouth-filling – a super blend of freshness and concentration – as many. Salivating, long finishing. That’s really a fine wine…

2020 St.Amour, Porte du Paradis
Here is a more composed nose – red fruit that’s less energetic. That’s lovely in the mouth though – texturally lovely, slightly cool fruit – open yet concentrated with flashes of fine, finishing flavour. Excellent!

2020 St.Amour Château de St.Amour
Hmm – even nicer, again floral and very appealing. Perfumed fruit, redder fruit – less impact. Super finishing – lovely.

2020 Domaine de la Seignurie, Juliénas
Modest weight but with an immodestly pure and fine width of attractive aroma. Supple, concentrated, fluid in style – here is a super mix of weight and cool-fruit style. Slow waves of flavour that finish very long. Excellent again.

2020 Moulin à Vent – Fleur
Here the nose is more forwardly spiced and attractively complex. Round, beautifully textured – slowly growing a little more structural in the middle. This I fine very sophisticated. Really super, with a combination of finesse and modest austerity – super wine…

2020 Moulin à Vent – Signature
Wider, silkier, darker fruit and a bit tighter in other directions. I love this in the mouth – energy – complexity – really a dynamic wine. Like most wines here, for keeping a while before opening.

2020 Moulin à Vent Domaine du Pourpre
An overtly oaky nose – creamy and rounding the other attributes. Rounded in the mouth too – indeed very finely textured still with plenty of energy. Actually, I note the barrel much less in the flavours – a mix of ‘okay’ and potentially great. It just needs a bit more of the aromatic oak to fade.

2020 Moulin à Vent Domaine des Rosiers
A touch of lactic to start – but also there is a darker fruit of fine purity. Nice shape in the mouth, cooler, darker fruit again. A texture of velour, Fine and intense in the middle and finishing flavour but always with a certain roundness, never too direct or sharp. Super again – nicely fresh finishing!

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