Tasted with Mathieu Mélinand in Fleurie, 11 February 2022.
Domaine des Marrans
109 route des Marrans,
69820 Fleurie
Tel: +33 4 74 04 13 21
I first got to know these wines at the Fleurie tasting in Lyon (elsewhere in this report) and wanted to return:
On the road between Fleurie and Morgon sits, surrounded by vines, the Domaine des Marrans. It’s just the second generation here – Mathieu’s grandfather was a metayer at Poncié but it was his father who started this domaine – and it’s currently 19 hectares of vines – Marrans is the name of the lieu-dit and this is the only house here in the climate.
In 2009, Mathieu joined his father at the domaine, and for the last two years his brother, Camille, has also been part of the team. They have 11 hectares in Fleurie, 2.5 in Chiroubles and another 2 in Morgon. The rest includes some Beaujolais villages and some white. Organic viticulture here since 2021 with certification planned for 2024.
About 60-70% of the production is exported – particularly in North America but Asia is quickly growing too.
Mathieu on 2021 & 2020:
“2021 was a very average harvest here – the different areas were very differently affected – but we ended up with about one-third lower volume than would be our average. We had lower volumes in 2020 too and whilst it’s a bit less typical because of the concentration, we still like the balance that we have.”
The wines…
The standard is very high here – also with a smattering of great wines that are worth a special search.
‘Technical corks’ for the first two wines – and then ‘natural’ cork for the others:
Vines near the near Chateau Pizay – of about 60-years-old
Hmm – now that’s very attractive! Fresh, modestly cushioned pure red fruit. Open, mouth-watering, easy – absolutely delicious wine – modestly structured, always juicy, slightly mineral finishing. €10 from the cellar here – not cheap for the label but you get what you pay for. Delicious and bravo!
2020 Beaujolais-Villages
From Lancié, more clay in the soil here with some sand as it’s near the crus. Like the last, whole bunches with cement tanks and 7 months elevage – bottled the same time as the last.
A more concentrated and intense nose – slightly steely. Supple, still a fine freshness – certainly more complex, some herb in the mix here. Wide over the palate and always mouthwatering. Very good and stronger finishing too!
2020 Fleurie Les Marrans
Vines around the domaine – 4.5 ha worth and the largest cuvée of the domaine. Some large oak foudres for elevage. It depends on the vintage volume – if lower there’s a single bottling – which would be the logistical preference here – but with more volume there may be a second bottling too.
Hmm – steely (reductive) but growing a fine width of darker fruit and flowers – the combination is recognisably ‘Fleurie.’ Extra sophistication and depth – yes a little tannic grain but this is super, direct – with purity of fresh favour and a fine sleek style. Really mouth-watering – simply excellent – I love the finish here!
2020 Fleurie Noir de Blancs
From the climat of Champagne which they are not allowed to use – hence the modest middle-finger to that in the cuvée name! Much stonier and less soil here than the Marrans area. Half cement half 500-litre barrel elevage
Deeper, also darker fruit – fine clarity – a little less aromatic width but a real beauty. More sophisticated texture, growing in cool-fruited volume. Mouth-filling and generous but never heavy. Super finishing with many flashes of interest – again, absolutely excellent wine!
A clos in la Chapelle du Bois next to the clos that’s now with Chateau de la Chaize. This is the historic parcel of the domaine before the buildings were constructed here in Marrans.
High-toned florals – also a steely impression that’s a bit of reduction – very elegant aromas. Direct, the silkiest of all – really gorgeously flavoured – mouth-watering, almost juicy. The epitome of elegant, beautifully crafted, Fleurie – bravo!
2020 Morgon Corcelette
5 different parcels of different ages nearly 50-years-old on average
Fine and direct – more compact than the last but pure and with a nice floral perfume too. Hmm – that’s really gorgeous too. More structural but open and melting with deliciously mouth-watering very pure flavour. The fluid style that I prize and slowly growing in the finish before slowly fading into the horizon. Also an absolutely excellent wine!
A single parcel of 2.5 ha. Granite, a little decayed, only 30 cm to the bedrock – 45-year-old average age for these vines and at about 400m so almost always the last parcel to be harvested – sometimes they wait longer for the Beaujolais as the yield can be more there.
Again with a fine and elegant width of pure aroma – a little steely again. Punchy, beautiful red fruit – such clarity and purity. Mouth-watering again. All is in place in this finely textured wine – salinity, structure but with a couple of millimetres of padding. Great finishing with a lift of more mineral flavours – a great Chrioubles!
And one white:
2020 Beaujolais Blanc
The lieu-dit is Poulet. 10-year-old vines next to their gamay close to Château Pizay – about on-third in demi-muids the rest in stainless steel.
Nicely vibrant with some ripe, peppery but fresh citrus. A wine that eases over the palate – not really any rigour – there’s some generosity of chardonnay and a good mouth-watering finish. Tasty and very good.