Tasted in Vougeot with Eduard Labet, 27 November 2023.
Chateau de La Tour / Domaine Pierre Labet
Rue de la Montagne
21640 Vougeot
Tel: +33 3 80 62 86 13
www.chateaudelatour.com
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Eduard on 2023:
“In 2023 we had a ferocious triage here in the Clos – the harvest was really heterogenous. We worried because of cool and wet weather but undeniably it was the warm weather that arrived in the second half of August that meant we could properly ripen the fruit. We didn’t extract much as there was certainly plenty of material and potentially strong tannins – we also did a green harvest in July – almost 30% in places – but it was necessary and that was despite a strict removal of buds earlier in the season – a wall of grapes would never have ripened. We had not much rot – the triage was removing the larger, slightly pink grapes. In whites, no question, I think it will be great vintage – the reds have started elevage in quite a linear fashion – the differences between the climats is less visible than recently but it’s early days…”
Eduard on 2022:
“2022 – fantastic! A sunny year but not really marked by the sun – there’s good maturity from clean grapes, it was our aim for finesse though and that needs maturity. We started our harvest 31 August with some old vines – and we continue to look at the Clos from a parcel-perspective with 10 micro-cuvées by parcel rather than by vine-age. We can’t forget that we suffered a little hail in our Chorey in 22 – here we destemmed a little more than elsewhere. The idea is always the same for us – just not to fall into excess…”
The wines…
A superb result from the team in 2022!
‘For us, VV means a minimum of 60-years-old.’
A pretty depth of darker red fruit. Hmm, there’s a depth of rose-inflected fruit – and super texture – a really concentrated wine with a few finishing dark bitters – keep this 2 years – you will be rewarded. Top!
More depth – hmm, a little extra fragrance – of perfume – too. Brighter, broader, some architecture here and what silky texture – that’s hyper-sophisticated Beaune yet with impressive, slightly linear today, concentration too, it’s sauve more than elegant – bravo villages!
2022 Pierre Labet, Beaune 1er Marconnets
Perhaps an edge more colour. But a more taut and precise red fruit nose – direct but still very inviting with it’s cushion of floral, wc perfume. Extra width, extra complexity, extra florality, slightly less silk – here we have velvet – the tannin completely ripe and ultra fine. Keep for a while for sure – but I would enjoy a glass of this already tonight
Crais, Justice and Jousie in equal amounts vinified together – about 1 ha of 60-year-old vines on average. ‘It was the water in June that meant we had more voluptuous and floral fruit – not cooked fruit.’
Ooh yes! – what a gorgeous airy and floral nose – great! Silky, sinuous, fluid – great wine!
2022 Château de la Tour, Clos de Vougeot
About 70% of the production is this ‘classic’ cuvée.
Shy top notes but the impression of ultra-silky – air brings more fine red fruit to the fore. Hmm, that’s very wide, and at the same time very silky and fluid – more silky than the Gevrey. Austerity? Who still uses that old word?!
Since 2015 the old vines cuvée is not made only from the one block of 1910 vines as in previous years.
Wide and ultra-fragrant – ultra complex. Direct, more architecturally-shaped, more intense too – here is the lightest of tannic grain – with some faint bitters. A monument. But wait 15 years – great, great wine.
Same as for the Vieilles-Vignes, not all from the single block of 1910 vines.
Back to a shy nose like the classic – but air also works here, bringing extra cherry-stone complexity to the aromas. A completely different wine to the last – more sauve in texture – more depth and breadth – there are some vintages I see Musigny in this wine – and in 22 it is a Musigny in the mouth. Holding such a ‘wow’ weight of finishing flavour.
Les Blancs…
Portuguese cork used for them:
2022 Pierre Labet, Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles-Vignes
This bottled like first 3 reds. ‘We just had to avoid waiting too long to harvest but not make insipid wine by going too early – and on the other hand not make too concentrated either.’
Fine and open – ripe citrus – almost golden shaded, a little aniseed. Direct, silky but with concentration too – not too generous, not too ripe just very, very drinkable – Yum!
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
Very young vines next to Pernand Ile des Vergelesses
Hmm – a calmer but also more focused and pure nose. Direct, mouth-watering with cool fruit that sits beautifully on the palate with some subtly mouth-watering pineapple and pear impressions – wide. Completely delicious wine.
Wines waiting to bottle:
Also a shy yet fresh nose with a vivid depth to the precise fruit aromas. Riper fruit, extra width, extra mineral and cool-fruited – wow Beaune, so silky and only 1 mm of cushion. Delicious Beaune and wonderfully textured.
More vertical, floral and open – that’s a beauty. Wow – next level even after the Beaune. In the mouth a little stricter than the nose but with a faint spice-bread complexity and still a more contemplative finishing weight of flavour. Excellent wine once more!
2022 Château de La Tour, Vin de France
Pinot blanc from in the clos. Just 1 2-year-old barrel of this
Airy, faintly smoky, only faintly generous – it’s not very forward but it’s an invitation. Clean, texturally lovely, generous but fresh-flavoured – I see the oak more in this than any other wine.