Tasted with Frédérique Goulley in Gevery-Chambertin, 17 November 2023.
Domaine Sérafin
7 Place du Château
21220 Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 34 35 40
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Frédérique on 2022:
“2022 is a good 30% below the limits – so I’d say roughly normal for us – that’s because we have a lot of old vines! We have reduced our allocations across the board in recent vintages, I’m hoping for better discussions with with our customers for these 2022s! The vintage wasn’t that hot but we still ripened well and were harvesting on the 30th of August – the volume was appreciated after those of 2020 and 2021.”
The wines…
Impressive wines – in the main they are wines that you should have some patience with – but they are so well constructed!
2022 Bourgogne
2 parcels of vines, one young.
Broad and a little barrel smoky – but clean and inviting too. A little tobacco. The palate is broad and juicy. Keep for 2 years before opening it will be delicious.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin
About 10 parcels included here, a little more than 1 hectare the vines averaging 50 years old- the majors being Crais and Etelois – tasted from a new barrel.
More red fruit and a little oaky reduction – but this finishes with delicious bravado – That will be lovely but wait 5 years.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Mainly next to 1er and grand cru sites plus the Brochon side of Gevrey. 70-75-years-old are the vine-ages on average but up to 100.
Broader, more power and smoke. Extra silky – more direct, depth of flavour – really classy texture – that’s a simply excellent wine.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Corbeaux
Their 50-year-old vines are in a little clos which saved them from the frost in 16 and makes for a slightly different micro-climate – ‘It’s better to work in the mornings in the summer – it’s too hot in the afternoon!’ The wall offered some protection from the frost in 2021 too.
More floral red fruit notes. Hmm – similar volume in the mouth, faintly more drying tannin but a broad width of more open and perfumed flavour – so good! I’d certainly drink the previous while waiting for this but there’s no burdening structure here – yes a super wine!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fonteny
Took out a small part after the 22 vintage as the old vines produced so little – that combined with the dryness made the decision.
Also a very floral nose- that’s really very attractive. Hmm, this is direct and velvet textured, that’s just so classy with a hint more depth of flavour. Intense finishing – that’s simply an excellent wine – well done!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
Not really deep colour. Hmm – a direct, soft red fruit but much more than that surrounding. Less easy, more structure, more growing intensity. This clearly needs time but you will be rewarded in 10 years (plus!)
First, 2 premiers from outside of Gevrey:
A lovely aromatic – almost a little bramble complexity to mix with the flowers. Fuller, more depth, and certainly more comfort than the Cazetiers, though not as much as the Fonteny. This is super complex with the broadest of finishes. Really excellent, potentially great.
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
In the domaine since 1996 – like the Morey – both are usually the first harvested.
Deeper colour. Darker aromatics too – a little of the smoky barrel nose again – but sooo inviting, getting better and better with air. Large scale, complex – just a delicious wine, a big wine too and long…
2022 Charmes-Chambertin
Half Mazoyères – there’s about 0.15 ha of each – quite close to each other. Roughly 85-year-old vines.
Hmm – that’s a perfume again, of course with some barrel notes too. Hmm, sinuous, but still broad – extra in all dimensions but never ‘rich’ the flavour remains generous and complex. Super complex finishing.