Tasted in Marsannay with Pierre Bart, 15 November 2023.
Domaine Bart
23 Rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
Tel: +33 3 80 51 49 76
More reports with Domaine Bart
Pierre on 2023:
“We did about 5% over the limit before sorting, so very good balance I’ve honestly never seen such quality given the quantity – perhaps less concentrated than 2022 – and there was some sorting to do, of course. The skins were thick so needed longer maceration to get the flavours out – but first, we selected which berries. Globally happy with what we kept.”
Pierre on 2022:
“About 10% below the limits and we saw lots of concentration – in the cuverie not easy as acidities were low – it’s the first time I’ve ever had to add some tartaric acid – but we needed to to protect the yeast during fermentation. Malos were very fast as there was so little malic acid – the wines can be fragile during this stage so we had to keep an eye on the volatiles – they were globally a little higher in 2022 but still well below any limits. There’s been no real filtering yet – just racking into tank – only the last litres were filtered to avoid any bad lees/sediment.”
The wines…
A discreet domaine – no website or Instagram – but their wines speak for them. Always high quality and delicious – occasionally great !!
Christmas to March for the bottling here:
2022 Marsannay
6 parcels, mainly on sandy soils. The domaine’s largest cuvée – they will start bottling this in 2 weeks
A small but pretty nose with some precise red fruit. Silky, good width – good attack with intensity but finishing wide and easy – delicious wine.
This is a 2-hectare monopole of the domaine. A triangle of vines between Longeroies and Echezots that produced only 2 hl/ha in 2016! Sandy and quite deep soil.
Also a sandy soil but here with darker fruit aromas. Hmm, more direct and concentrated, really attractive finishing bitters – Ooh – very moreish and super tasty – bravo!
2022 Marsannay Ouzeloy
A fairly large area of vines in Ouzeloy, but not that many producers use this label – mainly it’s this domaine and Roty. Quite young vines next to those of the last – perhaps a bit more clay in the soil that helps to hold onto the water
More fresh high tones – plenty of complexity here. Starting wide, and initially silky, becoming more velvet as the tannin grows. Stricter in the finish but with a delicious red fruit, almost creamy – super wine.
2022 Marsannay Longeroies
On the bottom of the vineyard, not on the more structured style of the limestone
Less aromatic impact but fine and airy. Larger scale, a little more structure here too – but very open. This is concentrated – less overtly delicious today vs the previous 2, but longer. A wine to wait for – 2-3 years, maybe 5 – but I think it will be super.
2022 Marsannay Les Echezots
Always late harvested, vines above Finottes. The domaine’s biggest parcel with over 2 ha of vines, and in more than one sector, ‘Some parts are easier than others, some parts go into the Bourgogne, sometimes – it works well in a warm vintage though as it’s a cold area and is always last harvested – but has fewer problems with rot because of the breeze that’s always here.’ The stems hardly ripen in this cooler place, so always destemmed.
Deeper, darker fruit growing in higher-toned delicacy. Hmm – textured width – there’s a lot of wine here – it needs to open out more – more ageing and some patience in the cellar – the finish is so impressive here though. Potentially excellent Marsannay.
2022 Marsannay La Montagne
Less open yet fresh and fine – beautifully airy in the glass. Hmm, broad, saline and finishing with small waves of red-fruited flavour – another to be patient with but 3 years will leave you in good shape…
2022 Marsannay St.Jacques
Fine and airy but with more aromatic concentration of darker, glossy fruit. Direct, silken, dark fruit, slowly mouthwatering – I love it!
2022 Marsannay Les Grands Vignes
Under Clos de Jeu, shared with Chateau de Marsannay – marne (marl) with oyster shells in the soil.
Another with a shy, airy, nose today. Silky again and showing more width than direction today. Juicy, redder fruit. A little strictness of finishing flavour but it’s tasty too. For keeping again – lovely but I’m a bigger fan of St.Jacques today…
A little more intensity in this width of aroma – growing beautifully floral perfume. Class, this is mouth-filling, fluid, texture of velour. Long – bravo!!
Also a fine width but also a quiet nose. Hmm, more languid, a faint cushion, delicious fruit with more richness and a different fruit profile – equally great but personally I prefer the Roy !!
2022 Fixin
Two parcels blended.
Some aromatic depth with a suggestion of reduction. The structure is more apparent but what a juicy middle and finishing flavour. A vibration of finishing flavour too, darker fruit. Super.
2022 Fixin 1er Hervelets
This is usually quite a late bottling ‘it always needs more time in elevage.’
Larger scale for this nose – a hint of oak in this mix – darker fruit again. Fuller and rounder than the villages – finely grained. A sustained darker-red fruit in this finish – that’s larger scale in all directions, more cushioned too, it’s and easier to approach wine that you can keep 5, 10 or 25 years – all good!
2022 Bonnes-Mares
Vines next to those of de Vogüé in Chambolle – the largest part originally from Clair-Daü, plus 0.12 hectares via Safer from a cousin – ‘That was the sole sale at a proper price in the last 15 years!’ The terroir is mainly terres rouges and contains some of the oldest vines of the domaine – ‘40% of which are more than 100 years old and are used for the massale selections of the domaine.’
Just a little more energy here and a slowly growing floral note with aeration. That almost perfect balance between concentration and freshness. The oak is visible in the creamy length – but what length. Ultra-classy…
2022 Clos de Bèze
Wide and vibrant at the base, more closed in the higher tones. Ultra classy in texture, a direct, assertive, style – the flavours too – only in the finish does this expand, indeed explode over the palate. It will be a super Bèze but be patient!
Les whites
2022 Marsannay Les Etalles Blanc
Planted in 2016 so 5th vintage from the young vines. Demi-muids and then 4 months in tank
Energy here, some golden citrus aromatics. Full, round, mouth-watering but still generous wine. A little rich and ripe today for my taste but it’s a delicious wine all the same.