Tasted in Morgon with Jean-Marc Burgaud, 07 February 2023.
Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
La Côte du Py
69910 Villié-Morgon
Tel: +33 4 74 69 16 10
www.jean-marc-burgaud.com
More reports with Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Jean-Marc on 2022:
“Magnificent! We didn’t really suffer from the dryness – Cote du Py is more dense and rich in the direction of 2020 but our other areas much less so – particularly where there was some clay in the soil. The Beaujolais Lantignie took up a little rain – there was more volume but still 13° so I’m very happy. It was the sandy soils that suffered more in 22 but here we got some rain at the right moments. This vintage we were not hit by the frost so no complaints!”
Jean-Marc on 2021:
“A cooler year but the end of the season was a good one – a little triage but not too much – a style that reflects the year – cooler in style but still serious – very classic – but it’s real Beaujolais. It’s not the maturity my parents or theirs would remember – the Lantignie was 12.3° natural here – no sugar needed. Overall, about 20% down in volume. The wines evolved a lot in bulk they are much nicer now than at the start – elevage brought a lot of precision and extra complexity to this vintage – the rewards were impressive. New vines; just one new change – an old vine (1932) parcel in Corcelettes – worked the whole year from January onwards.”
The wines…
A super range – no pyrazines to be seen, either! Some very covetable wines that would be worth a special search.
“DIAMs for BJ Lantignié and the blanc the rest are all ‘natural’ cork:”
2021 Beaujolais Villages Les Vignes de Lantigné
Just 7 days of maceration. A single bottling from this 4.3 ha of vines. Bottled in April – all tank elevage.
Deep aromas – lots of high-toned freshness too. Supple but mobile, fresh, growing in sucrosity – amiable, slightly cushioned flavours. Fading very well – that’s a delicious fruit – lovely, correct, villages – yum!
2021 Morgon Les Charmes
1 ha of 1932 vines, that were in family fermage but managed to buy outright from his cousin in 2021. In the west of Morgon towards Regnié but a different soil, the latest harvested parcel at the domaine and usually picked 1 week later due to sitting in a cooler current of air. This bottled in May.
Deeply perfumed almost modestly creamy, slightly round. Vibrant finishing – full shaped and long too – impressive wine.
2021 Morgon Grand Cras
Just under 3 hectares of vines. Here is clay, it’s a harder soil to work, a little limestone in the mix too, part is less sunny, the last was very granitic. Started with these vines in 2006 – harder to work as more clay – ‘I often find the tannins less noble so have shorter macerations than Côte du Py with more remontage – I’m happier today but it’s still a wine that brings its reward if you have more patience – the 2017 was great but only after 2 years in bottle.’
A very similar perfume – but more open and slightly airy. Faint gas. Much more open, less cushion and more visible structure. Properly ‘Cras’ – and beautifully, perfumed finishing – ooh that’s simply excellent, I love it!
2021 Morgon Corcelettes
The same age vines as the Charmes – from 1932
Breadth of aroma – a similar style to the last two – deep and perfumed. More mouth-filling with extra padding and a faint grain of tannin over the tongue. Holding a mouth-watering finish that’s still textured by the tannin though there’s hardly any grain. Super!
2021 Morgon Côte du Py
‘There’s over 6 hectares of vines represented here – with context, richness and depth, and the touch of fruit – each parcel providing the different component – vines 45-65 yo old – I’m lucky to have them!’
The family nose in the bass-notes is ever-present but here is a more airy and open top register – it’s lovely. Modestly tannic but a wine with balanced concentration – melting gorgeously in the finish – this is excellent stuff – and just a hint TOO easy to drink! Vin dangereux indeed! Super!
This lower on the slope. All large-format barrels for elevage, older barrels. The last bottled, together with the following wine – just 3 weeks in bottle.
Extra width and freshness – the family perfume is present but less overt – the floral component is much more to the fore. Yes – fluid, complex, just a little of the structure – the tannic structure – dragging across the palate but what a wine. That’s a great one!
This from the summit of the hill – all the rest of the elevage is exactly the same as the last – to the day, only the origin is different, even the vines were planted in the same year – 1965. Same elevage and bottling as the previous wine.
A more compact nose – still the family nose but more compact. Supple, more considered – a hint less energy – less fluid but here is still something great – a presence of great wine. Vibrating in the finish long, long… Wait 5 years for this while drinking the great Javernières!
And le white:
2021 Beaujolais Villages Lantignié Blanc
Vines planted in 2010, in Lantignié – a yellow clay hillside towards Regnié. ‘It was all gamay and producing not very much when I bought it in 1996. It’s 40% clay in the soil here so I decided to plant some chardonnay. I was lucky but I had a good harvest in 21…’ Bottled in March 22 – after all tank eevage with full malo.
Fresh, wide, some density and a slight mineral rigour. In the mouth, this melts over the palate the flavour with good citrus and plenty of concentration too. The finish is excellent – ripe but pure citrus finishing. Only a very modest rigour to this rather tasty wine – Yum!
And maybe something suggesting the same esprit as 2021 – how about a 2008?
Broad complex – lots of smoky maturity – growing floral, filling the glass – a privilege! A cascade of mouth-watering flavour. Direct but wonderfully complex and energetic. Holding such an impressive finishing width – more than a treat – bravo!