Tasted with Nicholas Robert in Hurigny, 08 November 2021.
Nicholas on recent vintages:
“2020 – it’s a good vintage – we have some volume but the wines have a long elevage I’m presenting something else as nothing is filtered or fined at this stage. All the 2018s were bottled just before the 2020 harvest, so we prefer to show those wines. We could slowly achieve a lovely ripeness in this vintage. It is a strong vintage, tasty with a good freshness despite modest acidity, they should last well, we did lose about 30% to hail so did no more than 30 hl/ha.”
Lovely 18s, though I was a little more excited by some of them last year. The 2017 Viré-Clessé is a great buy though…
2018 St.Véran Les Pommards
From magnum! 0.50 ha – about 45 yo vines, bottled from elevage in ‘just about everything that was available!’
The nose has freshness but has also some creamy, custard oak today – below is minerality and clearly some fresh energy. Round, but mineral, cool fruit, mouth-watering in style, slightly saline. That’s simply lovely finishing. In this format wait 3 or 4 more years – clearly excellent wine…
2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Cras VV
Half a hectare of more than 80-year-old vines, some marne and more limestone here. Not yet 1er in this vintage. Elevage in a mix of barrels, of different formats and cement.
A vibrant and quite mineral nose. Similar in the mouth too – really wide minerality, a grain of tannin framing the flavour. That’s really excellent.
2019 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles-Vignes La Croix
Atypical – 70-year-old but with blue schist in the soil – about to be bottled there’s been no added sulfur and they don’t plan to add at bottling time either.
A rounder nose with a reductive accent. Really nice shape to this mouth-filling wine – lots of minerality and some edges but with a tannic complexity that softens the edges a little. Gorgeously mineral finishing with a citrus accent – this bodes oh-so-well. Like all of these so far – be patient!
Over 100-year-old vines, muscaté. All concrete elevage for this wine.
A small touch of extra maturity but I don’t see ‘muscaté’ in the aromas here. Super width – that’s just so gorgeously mouth-watering. This wine is already in place and the cool-fruited, deliciously mouthwatering wine will only get better – bravo!
2018 St.Véran Les Pommards
This harvested 1st September – 15.9° to start, sans-souffre, only just bottled – it’s maybe down to 15.2° now!
High-toned a little alcoholic but no semblance of ‘diffuse.’ The flavour has a suggestion of alcohol but the spine of this wine – it’s structure and acidity – are really nicely in place. Slowly mouth-watering with a fine texture. The last notes wides and mouth-watering – tasty too. Not classic but still with lots to like.