des Gandines – 2020

2.12.2021billn

Florent Dananchet 2020 Domaine des GandinesTasted with Florent Dananchet in Huriigny, 08 November 2021

Domaine des Gandines
Route de la Vigne Blanche
71260 Clessé
Tel: +33 3 85 36 95 16
gandines.com
More reports with des Gandines

Florent on 2020:
The 2020 vintage brought an early start – we worried a lot about the frost that, in the end, never came. Really an easy vintage to work in the vines – it was quiet too as it was the confinement! We have a bit more clay in our soils and we didn’t do much working of the soil so we managed to make our rendements without problem after two much shorter vintages. I see some nice balance in these wines.

The wines…

A very good set of wines showed by Florent – I was particularly taken by the combination of high quality but still value for the first wine he presented.

2020 Macon-Péronne Vieilles-Vignes
90-year-old vines in an argilo-calcaire soil but with some silex too. This is traditionally bottled in the springtime – 20 hl foudres plus stainless steel for the elevage.
A medium-weight nose but of fine, slightly lime-inflected purity. Round, quite generous yet beautifully mouth-watering and energetic too – already perfect – also the pricing at €12-14!

2020 Viré-Clessé Terroir de Clessé
The most important cuvée of the domaine, coming from 7 hectares in VC – 6 parcels with separate elevage in stainless-steel – averaging 60-year-old vines. Both white and red limestone soils are represented here.
A deeper nose, slightly DIAM reductive. Full, concentrated, with slowly widening and mouth-watering flavour over the palate. Vibrant and concentrated finishing… I’d wait for this one a couple of years…

2020 Viré-Clessé Les Gandines
The parcel mainly planted by Florent’s grandfather – bottled just 3 weeks – DIAM 10 Origine sealed. Here calcaire rouge (red limestone soils) and 80-year-old vines
More airy, more perfumed. I like the line of faintly tannic structure here – this is not a wine for drinking today – though you can – you should be starting your approach in 5 years. Already there is a purity in this concentration and the finish is really long.

2019 Vireé-Clessé Les Chateneay Cuvée Loris
This cuvée, just now commercial. Loris is the brother of Agathe. 70-yo vines, elevage with younger, 1-year-old, barrels – 500-l barrels. This on calcaire blanc in the south of the appellation.
A more explosively forward nose with the creamy accent of the barrels. A hint of gas but really tons of energy of its own. The fruit is ripe but carried by the energy – I’d be waiting as long as the last for the oak to fade. The finish is a clarion of delicious purity – before that, I was a little less interested.

And to finish:

2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Le Petit Parcel
A vein of granite at over 400m near Burgey – 1,2 ha of gamay is planted here plus 0.10 ha of pinot – this is the pinot. Not yet commercial. ‘Natural’ vinification but 20 mg of sulfur was added at bottling time. Again with DIAM 10.
Quite smoky but all is destemmed – very complex aromatics. Mouth-filling volume with an airy and complex style – beautifully finishing on a deliciously airy line of flavour.

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