Tasted in Premeaux with newly coiffured Géraldine Godot, 14 November 2023.
Domaine de L’Arlot
Premeaux
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 61 01 92
www.arlot.com
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Géraldine on her recent vintages:
“2023 – yes, it needed a lot of triage – there was a bit of everything. 43 hl/ha was our result. 2022 brought 38 hl/ha, 2021 not quite 20 hl/ha. Lots of people compare 2018 with 2022 due to the volumes – but we didn’t have a lot in 2018 either!
“Before 2022 I never met more than 30 hl/ha here and the previous time was in 2009. We’ve worked a lot on our pruning since 2021 and we have adapted to each particular vintage – we have some Italian consultants and they follow all our steps from pruning to harvest to gauge the improvement (hopefully!) of both quantity and quality – we are happy to work with them – we even remember some of the things with them that we had forgotten!”
The wines…
Is there a more consistent domaine? So many great wines! Bravo!
4 wines have been bottled since September, the Clos de l’Arlot wll be done in another month – all the others ‘later:’
The same parcel as for the whites. Young vines, a little more than 10 years old – but that’s older than the HCDN blanc.
Deep dark fruit, and just a small reduction to start but floral in the mix as you swirl the glass. Hmm – that has a very comfortable texture – velour, almost a little fluid. Only in the finish the suggestion of some grain – very classy and really quite explosively finishing – top Bourgogne – just give it 1-2 years!
2022 Côte de Nuits Villages Clos du Chapeau
A 1.6 hectare plot in Comblanchien.
Cleaner, fresher but almost as deep – there’s no reduction here. Hmm, here’s that fluidity again. Mobile, beautiful in the mouth – clean-cut flavour. Gorgeous. That’s a simply excellent cdnv!
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er ‘Mont des Oiseau’
Middle of Clos Forets but young vines of 10-15 years old.
Narrower, very fine – there’s fruit focus and a pretty floral perfume too – rather elegant. Again, fluid, the flavour has energy but not too much, the texture is lovely, and the intensity is also present but not too much – a wine to sink into without being too contemplative – super wine!
The vines now average over 70 years – marl is a characteristic of the clos.
A more open and quite a bit broader nose – a slight cushion to this more concentrated red fruit and, today, the very faintest of barrel notes. More scale, energy and wonderful clarity. There’s the domaine’s vintage fluidity too. I love this finishing flavour – edged with gooseberry. Quite larger scaled finishing than the last – only the finish could be a bit more delicious – but I still think that this could be a great wine – bravo!
A relatively massive vineyard monopoly of 7.2 hectares – it’s half of the domaine – with three distinct soil types, all harvested and vinified separately.
More airy higher tones are visible – very classy. This is direct, cool and intense – the structure is more visible – ooh super intense too. Nothing is too much but altogether this says wait 5+ years – you will be more than rewarded by this great wine – such a finishing scale – still with plenty of bitters!
From 0.85 hectares at the border of Richebourg, vines that were planted in 45, 50 and 87.
A different register – redder, clearly more spiced though less intense too – again perhaps a modest reduction. Ooh – this melts over the palate – the texture and the fluid flavour really taking a next step. Also great but a wine that will be accessible much younger – I could drink it tonight!
2022 Romanée Saint-Vivant
From 24 rows of vines that face Romanée-Conti and run only halfway to the village.
A narrower but deeper nose – more vertical – there’s a fine depth here, classy even, but you’d take the Suchots ahead today. Larger scale in the mouth though – more of everything – but also, if not quite the austerity of the Forets, certainly a wine not to drink today but what an impressive width and persistence of finish! Super wine!
Les Blancs
2022 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc Le Monts
From just above the Clos des Forêts.
Hmm – a small nose (after RSV) but a fine and pretty one – it’s an invitation! Broad then filling the mouth. Open, easy, delicious wine – with that 2022 juicy character – what’s not to like – it’s delicious!
2022 Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Leurrey
More depth and ripeness of fruit to this nose – still yellow fruit and not exotic. Fuller – a little more intensity but a roundness to this wine – still juicy this time a little more zesty in the finish and long. This will be lovely – drink now or in 2-3 years – I could drink it now 😉
A mix of La Gerbotte and others in the Clos l’Arlot – Gerbotte being the coolest location – temperature-wise!
More a width of aroma but complex and attractive – really quite perfumed. Hmm, now we are talking; classy, more fluid delivery of flavour, mouth-watering, faintly creamy in the last notes but without obvious oak influence. That’s just a beautiful wine – Yes – a great white from the north!