Tasted in Beaujeu with Philippe Deschamps, 22 February 2021.
Domaine Philippe Deschamps
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Philippe on 2019:
My 2019 volumes were correct, only one area delivered a bit less and that was due to the heat. The wines are actually quite ready which makes me think that they are for keeping for more like 3 years than 5 but this and 2020 are two good harvests with very good wines – perhaps the 2020s are a little better but let’s see.
The blanc is hardly special but the rest of the wines here were really super – priced very attractively at the domaine too…
All bar one old-vines cuvée and the Brouilly from 2019 have been bottled:
2019 Beaujolais Rosé – Perle de Rose
A single parcel normally. Grapes stay in the press for about 6 hours to take on the colour – like to do a delicate press.
Needs a bit of swirling, but that releases freshness and a nice purity too, almost floral. Hmm, that’s very tasty – easy over the palate with good clarity. Deliciously flavoured. Simply excellent rosé – and you know that I think gamay rosé is the best rosé!
2019 Beaujolais Villages
This is the classic cuvée. No added yeast. Vines in Beaujeu.
A cushioned nose of attractive, round red fruit. Lots of depth to this flavour – freshness, good energy but depth of fruity flavour too. This is very good for the label and completely delicious.
This not yet bottled, so a tank sample – this will be bottled when the 18 is sold – so very soon, perhaps April. 80-year-old vines
Just a bit more colour. The nose has little more impact and width of concentrated fruit and flowers. Some gas. Broader, fresher and more structured – all in a good way – a small accent of tannin too – but this has lovely cool fruit, plenty of concentration too. I like it a lot – this is a great BJV!
Also a tank sample, vines in Quincié
Hmm, that’s a fine nose – darker fruit but still with freshness. Gas. Open, beautifully structured again with a faint but harmless lick of tannin. Lots of concentration in the middle, but floral accented too. Again an excellent wine.
This bottled as 18 is sold out. Buy the grapes from Grand Cras – this is the third vintage.
That’s a complex nose, one that – surprisingly – shouts, ‘I’m ready!’ Wide on the palate, cool fruit again, yet with a slight roast suggestion – but this wine, whilst properly structural (it’s a Morgon!) has no hard edges, just like the other wines. An extra floral complexity in the middle. Normally this is my favourite wine, but I would take the Brouilly and VV ahead of it this year – still, it’s a good wine – and anyway you should wait 12-18 months before attacking!
2019 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
This chardonnay in Lantignié.
That’s an attractive nose – citrus, perhaps a touch of lime and sweetness too. Fresh, open, rather perfumed/floral. No rigour, the minerality is there, on a modest level. Tasty, easy wine with good length – good!