Tasted in ‘Corcelette’ with Daniel Bouland, 02 February 2021.
Domaine Daniel Bouland
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Daniel on 2019:
“The first bottlings of 2019s were in May and then another campaign just before the harvest in August. We didn’t have any frost but still had quite low yields. There was a reasonable amount of rain over the year but the second part of the year had lovely weather – our maturity came really at the end of the cycle – in the wines we rediscovered the variety of gamay a little more compared to the power of the 2018s – 2020 is a little like 2019 in this respect too. The average for the whole domaine was 48 hl/ha but older vine parcels often produced closer to 25 hl/ha.”
Always a personal favourite where I plan to buy some wine yet hardly ever get the chance to return before my three-week tour is finished. Some great wines here as usual, though some with overt pyrazine too. I find the current naming scheme much easier to follow than some of the previous vintages that were segmented by their tank number – much easier!
Not really a sandy soil here.
Plenty of colour here – not saturated though. A depth of aroma, darker vibrant fruit and a touch of graphite minerality. Wide – mouth-filling, mouth-watering with freshness and layers of flavour – that’s really super, wide, juicy, fine-textured and long too. Great Chiroubles – it’s dangerous to say ‘great’ here as this is ‘only’ the first wine!
South-facing, quite volcanic bluestone soil, the older vines directly above Château Thivin.
A nose that’s ‘extra’ – silky, very floral and has depth to the fruit too. Mouth-filling – a mm or two of cushion and great texture, very finely accented with a tannin. Layered, concentrated but always fresh finishing flavour. Great wine!
Morgon Bellevue is split into two cuvées – one for the sand and one for the stones – different porte-greffes (root-stocks/plant material) here too – both with concrete tank elevage:
2019 Morgon Bellevue ‘Sables’
On sand, on a special porte-greffe which has a low production on a steeper slope. Cement tank elevage – with epoxy coating.
A nose that’s more airy, suggesting a faint pyrazine/floral accent but deep too – it’s tighter here to start. Bright, fresh, yes, still the pyrazine accent. More direction and a little more freshness. This a direct and meltingly mouth-watering wine – wide and intense finishing – love this finish. That’s a very good wine, excellent if the pyrazine (for me) fades…
2019 Morgon Bellevue ‘Cailloux’
This on the stones, but also older vines.
Here the nose is a little tighter, perhaps deeper but still tight – I’ve still the impression of some pyrazine but here it’s more closely associated with florals. Direct, a little more austere from a structural perspective – but wide and chewy finishing – but an obviously great young finish here. That’s super.
Leaving Villié-Morgon as you head to Fleurie near Doubie. This in a relatively recent Foudre.
Great colour – as all here. That’s a beautiful nose – wide, open, almost faintly textured – really super. An extra concentration is apparent here, a little more tannin but not the drive and direction of the previous two – here we have a mouth-filling but fresh roundness of style. Layered, wide, slightly saline finishing – lots of little complexities. A great wine again!
The Corcelette old-vines is also split into sand (stainless-steel elevage) and stones (foudre) – some of the oldest vines here are from 1925:
A wine that needs you to work the glass – but for great reward – it starts tight but deep then aeration brings a super perfume of flowers – a great start. Cooler fruit and extra freshness. There’s tannin but with no grain and very little dryness. That’s a finish that almost stains the palate, inky, long, long, long – for keeping but that’s great!
2019 Morgon Corcelette Vieilles-Vignes ‘Cailloux’
Higher toned aromas here – more structural. Mouth-filling – certainly more presence, faintly with a pyrazine – but one I can appreciate at this level as extra complexity. Again super length – it’s the chalky presence of this wine that sets it apart from the previous. Excellent wine.
2019 Morgon Corcelette
This with elevage in foudres. Also a sandy area.
A punchy nose of dark fruit that quickly tightens. Mouth-filling. More composed, more depth of texture here – deep and brooding. Concentrated wine, perhaps a little more warmth and milk-chocolate accented. Long, more mineral finishing. Some extra dimension of finishing flavour. Brooding wine – and there’s a lot here – needs time.
2019 Morgon Delys
This the younger vine cuvée a mix of vines from the 1970s and 1980s.
A deep nose but perfumed too – very attractively! Open, fine texture, mobile over the palate but concentrated too. Expanding wider and wider over the palate – not the finishing weight of some but still a beautiful wine!
2019 Morgon les Delys 1926
The date indicating the year of plantation.
Beautifully floral but again with a little pyrazine. Mouth-filling, cooler fruited, a little extra structural components but nothing hard or overly tannic. Concentrated and persistent finishing – the first part of the finish is more impressive in the last wine but the final reminder is stronger here. Practically great!