Tasted in Jullié with Thibaud Baudin, 24 February 2021.
Thibaud on 2019:
“2018 was our first vintage and I think we could have picked earlier, which I did in 2019, in fact I was much earlier than most of my neighbours. But high up here there was no oïdium, no frost nothing like that – it was a relatively easy year in the vines. There’s still a bit of négoce – the St.Amour and the white – the Fleurie is now all domaine and the white will be too in 2021. We mainly bottled our 2019s last year, just the last three parcel selection wines are still finishing their elevage so are waiting for a summer bottling.”
Holding a strong performance – one great wine that you can already buy, two more that won’t be bottled for a while…
From a la folie
Very faint reductive start – but there’s lovely red fruit here too, slowly with a suggestion of florals. Fresh attack, a very fine tannin too – really gaining in intensity in the middle before slowly fading. Today this could do with a bit more richness in the middle but the finish is really super.
Near St.Joseph, bought already with AB certification
A deeper, redder width of freshness. Much finer, slightly direct, red fruit – there’s a nice mouth-watering line to this flavour too. A wide and complex and completely delicious finish. That’s a beauty – excellent wine.
2019 Juliénas Vielles-Vignes
An engaging freshness and width of aroma, adding florals with air. Direct and fresh. There’s a little structure supporting this wine – larger finishing – like all, and slightly saline too. That’s a very good wine.
Very steep, very old vines – a lot of work with a hand-plough and other manual labour – for 25 hl/ha – ‘it’s s beach, just sand – and some weeds of course!’ The last parcel harvested. ‘I only infused this wine – it didn’t need any help’
That’s a deep nose – higher tones mix florals and pyrazine. Incisive, bright, concentrated – plenty of pyrazine in the flavour too. The finish is wide and gorgeously persistent – a great finish.
Lots of colour. A deep and concentrated nose, darker fruited. A driving, direct style to this, framed with a little dryness of tannin but no grain to the tannin. Despite the structure there’s a long line of slowly fading flavour here, still faintly dry – yet – I love!
From Charbonnières – a small valley below the Madone. All domaine in this vintage but the vines are being taken out now so they can better manage the parcel, organically, in the future.
A rounder, sweeter nose with a depth of darker-red fruit. A little like the BJV there’s a little drying tannin that frames the fresh and quite direct style of the flavours. Again super length but accompanied by the structural aspects – that’s another super wine – for keeping a couple of years before you attack!
The following wines will have 2 years of elevage, so are not yet bottled:
2019 Julienas Beauvernay
South-facing hillside vines, the younger vines in here were destemmed. A mix of larger wood containers before racking into smaller (old) barrels.
Lots of colour here. Depth of aroma, lots of barrel complexity too – fortunately, no vanilla. Round, easy entry, growing in shape. A small grain of tannin and lots of complexity – but with the forward aspects of the barrel it has a slightly anonymous character – despite being a really excellent wine. I wouldn’t touch one before 2025.
Half barrel and half tank elevage with some destemming for one part, not the other then assembled. This year, the second year of elevage, is all in tank for this wine.
More purity, super freshness too – yes. Direct, textured with a little tannin, faintly saline, driving, super wine – concentration here too. The early wood elevage not really visible. That’s a beauty – cool-fruited and oh-so-long. Bravo! The tannin is only visible with a late-arriving dryness.
Northern slopes, deep soil – there’s some clay that runs through here too. As the last wine – the first year of elevage in wood, the second year will be all tank.
Not quite as deeply coloured. A good nose but smaller than the previous wines – with clarity though. More direct, lots of fresh energy. A background of drying tannin – but not to worry – this just needs a couple of years in the cellar. A little more finesse vs that last wine but also not for touching for 3 or more years. Bravo again!
And to finish:
2019 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
Vines in Emeringes plus a small amount from another place. There was a little frost here in 2020.
A bright and energetic nose – ripe, almost a little exotic fruit but with a good energy. Wide but also following nicely direct line of fresh and mineral flavour. Nothing of rigour – slightly herbed – easy to drink.