Tasted in Charnay-lès-Mâcon with Baptiste Duc & Barbara Cueille (right) pictured together with Laurence Malois, 22 February 2021.
Barbara Cueille has completed her first year with Trenel without problem, despite my tasting last year being her first with the maison!
Barbara on 2019:
“Well, it was a complicated vintage – frost, hail, small harvests – but also one of good quality. The wines show a fresher vintage – we lost two-thirds of our Macons due to frost – so we have much, much less than in 2018. We are quite a restaurant-focused business here, so it’s no surprise that 2020 was a difficult year for our sales but are working more and more with online sales now – it’s a great engine for sales for everyone at the moment.”
Not the multiple highs that I often find here, but still a range of very good to excellent wines – the Beaujolais Blanc being a clear standout today…
we started with a 2018:
2018 Beaujolais Cuvée Rochebonne
Screw-cap _ very easy! From Pierres d’Orée, 70-100-year-old vines with goblet training.
A deep nose, faintly reductive, slowly opening and freshening with air. This is quite a silky wine, decently concentrated and grows wider over the palate too, slightly mineral finishing – not losing that reductive impression though. Good.
2019 Beaujolais Villages
From Perreon, sandy and granitic – 45-50-year-old vines, 25% destemmed, bottled November.
Less reductive, fuller fruited, slowly adding some floral notes. Great freshness and directness of flavour – again with a lovely texture – that’s a super wine with small waves of finishing flavour. More clarity and weight of flavour. That’s very good for the label.
Part Capitans the other Paradis. Vines about 60-year-old, whole cluster, elevage in cement. This bottled in May.
Needs a bit of aeration but here is a little extra aromatic complexity. Incisive but not acidic, direct again but even finer texture – here is an excellent wine, with character and quite some class too. Delicious, excellent wine.
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Various plots, mainly hillside location 30-70-year-old vines.
A much rounder nose, red-fruited, a riper impression. Lovely in the mouth again – fresh, mouth-filling, ripe red-fruited but not over-ripe. The finish slowly fading, no hard edges – another delicious wine and an excellent Bourgogne
2019 Morgon Côte du Py
Plain-south facing, all destemmed with a longer maceration. Conrete plus 25% barrel elevage.
A width of concentrated red fruit, here with a little creamy depth. Mouth-filling both direct and with good width, a subtle tannin but hardly any dryness, certainly no grain. There’s a creamy barrel accent in the middle and finishing flavours, but only an accent. A wine that’s very classy – very good.
2019 Moulin à Vent
Bois Marechaudes and Thorins. About 15% barrel elevage.
A wine that really appreciates aeration – the aromas growing and freshening. Plenty of flavour impact and a little more overtly structural too – no obvious oak flavours in this case. Supple heading into the finish, faintly lingering with a little dryness too – but very modest. Finely-crafted wine – very good.
2019 Fleurie Climat La Madone
Domaine vines – 1 ha… Again with some barrel elevage after cement fermentations.
The first nose that pops from the glass – that’s lovely – good depth of aroma too. Silky, direct, lovely structure, no tannic grain. Strong finishing too – it could improve by opening out more in the finish, but here is a wine that is excellent as a minimum, potentially with more to come. Lovely!
2019 3° Fleuve by Daniel & Denise Trenel, Fleurie La Levrattière
A small parcel of 0.50 ha, 30 hl/ha, all tank elevage. A wax-topped bottled.
The nose a little tighter again, with some saline highlights, starting a little reductive, but slowly becoming fresher and more open. More concentration and more depth to this slightly cushioned texture. A fuller, richer, impression in the mouth, long and tasty too. In shape and style I prefer the last but if you like the richer style – completely balanced – then this is also excellent.
Never made with bought yeasts, very little barrel for elevage too. All is ‘classic’ cork here:
Bottled one week, all tank elevage – from Pierres d’Orées.
Not a large nose but one of nice detail – it’s quite attractive with a ripeness of citrus. Mouth-filling and full of mouth-watering freshness of flavour too. Structural but nothing hard or rigorous here. That’s a fine finish. Bravo – a great BJB!
2019 Mâcon Villages
Vines in Igé, Viré and Charnay – they don’t make a separate Charnay cuvée anymore – 80% tank elevage for this wine – all the malo was done. Bottled in January
A nose with a little musky depth and a faint salinity. This is open, concentrated, quite rich wine. Mouth-watering but more of an opulent style than a wine of energy. At the same time this is delicious and releases a fine wave of nicely balanced, indeed mouth-watering, finishing flavour – it’s excellent here in the finish.
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
New cuvée, mainly south-facing hillsides, mainly tank elevage. Bottled only a month.
Hmm, that’s a lovely nose – of freshness and quite a floral aspect too. Still a little gas, but not too much. Nicely sherbet impression like a Montagny but with a bit more concentration. That’s a fine finish too – Excellent Bourgogne!
Old vines, 80, in Viré. Fermentations in tank, then 30% of elevage in older barrels.
A narrower nose but of good depth, faintly inflected by the barrels. Mouth-filling, fine shape and texture here – a growing insistence of flavour with a noticeable accent from the barrel – but this will fade. This is excellent, I’d give it a year or perhaps 18 months for the barrel to fade further, but lovely…
Chasselas, Leynes and Davayé – 3 terroirs – 20-60-year-old vines. Tank fermentations then 40% barrels.
At the base a faint oak but also top notes that are developing in a more overtly floral way – a nice blend. Easy over the palate – cooler fruit which I like – holding a very tasty finishing line of flavour – that’s rather long and fine finishing. Give this 2 years in your cellar and you will be rewarded.
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts
Average 80-year-old vines – 400-litre-barrels for fermentation and elevage.
A rather perfumed wine, subtly reductive – that’s an interesting and very attractive invitation to take a sip. Vibrant, faintly tannic – growing in intensity. I love the cut of this wine. So mouth-watering and so delicious despite the accent from the barrel. Give this 1-2 years in the cellar – but I think it excellent! Very long too…
2019 St.Véran En Terre Noire
From Davayé at the bottom of the Rock of Vergisson, 12 months elevage, barrels of 1-year-old, 400-litres.
Deeper golden colour. Here the nose is of a more golden-style of fruit – think Fourchaume in a Chablis context. Extra richness of flavour – but plenty of width and balance. Undoubted concentration of decent balance, but to my taste doesn’t compare with the energy and fresh intensity of the previous wine. I’d wait a bit longer for this one.
2019 St.Véran Clos des Poncetys
‘Plain south-facing with exotic fruit usually.’
Also quite a deeper colour. Less golden-fruited than the previous wine but a similar weight of ripe fruit. Extra zip and freshness – a cooler style to the fruit here. Fine texture – a wine that sit’s in style between the two poles of the last two wines. Beautifully textured, not overtly golden-fruited like the last but still with plenty of richness. Super finishing – almost a synthesis of the previous two wines. Excellent.