Tasted in Morgon with Jean-Marc Burgaud, 02 February 2021.
Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
La Côte du Py
69910 Villié-Morgon
Tel: +33 4 74 69 16 10
www.jean-marc-burgaud.com
More reports for Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Jean-Marc on 2020:
“For me it’s a super vintage. An early spring, the vines pushed well without worries of maladies – not really suffering due to dryness but with big differences in yield, some sectors had plenty others very little – Brouilly for example had very little. The cycle was early and finished early too – I harvest the 24 August – overall with very correct yields – say 45 hl/ha and quite homogenous – quite high sugars – 13.7-14.7° but no problems with fermentation. Serious but Beaujolais – not the same level of ‘material’ of 2015.”
Jean-Marc on 2019:
“The vintage starting early again but the overall climate less ‘sudiste’ and the wines more ‘Beaujolais’. The skins were less thick in 2019 so less tannin and less colour. August was wetter and cooler because of that perhaps the grapes were more juicy. Overall 12-13° for the various parcels. ”
The wines…
The same as in 2018 – delicious wines in general, but Jean-Marc’s Javernières and ‘James’ cuvées have another, special, level.
“DIAMs for BJV and blanc the rest are all ‘natural’ cork:”
2019 Beaujolais Villages Les Vignes de Lantigné
Almost 5 hectares all in Lantignié. Actually two bottlings, this from April, there was a second, smaller one, in September too.
That’s a deep nose – a little reduction – but impressively vibrant too, aeration brings a little floral welcome too. Great shape in the mouth – freshness and concentration, mouth-watering towards the finish, long finishing – a little mineral here too. That’s a super finish – delicious wine of lovely depth.
The lieu-dit – 1 ha of vines here. 8 days of maceration.
A deep nose again and quite vibrant again too. Fresher, a little more concentrated. Mineral and floral is the core theme, mouth-watering and long – a baby wine but I think this is great.
2019 Morgon Les Charmes
1 ha of 1932 vines, that were in family fermage but managed to buy outright from his cousin in 2019. In the west of Morgon towards Regnié but a different soil, the latest harvested parcel at the domaine, usually picked 1 week later due to sitting in a cooler current of air. Bottled in May, like the Regnié.
Again a faintly reductive start – but here is cork not DIAM. Concentrated and mouth-filling. Here’s a slightly more structural and tannic wine – not with much grain but just a little dryness. Super wine but be patient here.
2019 Morgon Grand Cras
Just under 3 hectares of vines. Here is clay, it’s a harder soil to work, a little limestone in the mix too, part is less sunny, the last was very granitic. Started with these vines in 2006 – harder to work as more clay – ‘I often find the tannins less noble so have shorter macerations than Côte du Py with more remontage – I’m happier today but it’s still a wine that brings its reward if you have more patience – the 2017 was great but after 2 years in bottle.’ This bottled at the start of July.
A little less depth of colour and a more open and airy aroma including a good floral perfume. Really wide, so mouth-watering, slightly more present tannin – the mouth-watering finish suffused by floral references.
‘This is a cuvée that I think representative of what I try to do – there’s over 6 hectares of vines represented here – with context, richness and depth, and the touch of fruit – each parcel providing the different component – vines 45-65 yo old – I’m lucky to have them!’ This bottled at the start of August – always with tank elevage.
That’s a beautifully in-place nose of volume, of complexity – floral and fruit – suggesting a nice textural side too. Fruit-forward, mouth-watering – finely structured – much more approachable than the Grand Cras today. Fine, wide and very floral finish. Great Py and I’m amazed that I would happily drink it already despite it’s structural side.
This lower on the slope. All large-format barrels for elevage, older barrels. This just bottled – three weeks previously.
Less volume of aroma but a fine width of florals underpinned by a subtle barrel reference. Ultra-silky, certainly you can taste the oak but it’s not too ‘in your face’ – great finishing – so persistent. Wait 3 years if you don’t want to taste any oak, but that’s a great wine.
This from the summit of the hill – all the rest of the elevage is exactly the same as the last – to the day, only the origin is different, even the vines were planted in the same year – 1965.
Here the nose is perfumed and doesn’t show the barrels. Nicely constructed, structural, mouth-watering – this is more structural than the last, it needs keeping, not to lessen the effect of oak-elevage – you won’t really find that in here. Great wine – from 2024!
2019 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
Vines planted in 2010, in Lantignié – a yellow clay hillside towards Regnié. Bottled end of Feb.2020, all tank elevage. ‘It was all gamay and producing not very much when I bought it in 1996. It’s 40% clay in the soil here so I decided to plant some chardonnay. In 19 I harvested a couple of days earlier than I had before – 12.5° and I’m pretty happy with the result – I want ‘easy but good.’
Bright, vibrant, a little aniseed, some mineral rigour – a complex nose. Mouth-filling. Good freshness and texture, the rigour of the nose can be found in the flavours – but actually, on a very low level – this is quite complex and tasty, slowly fading with a little perfume.