Tasted in Moulin à Vent with Stéphane Lardet, 01 February 2021.
Stéphane on 2019:
“Of course we worried about the frost but we don’t have vines at the bottom of the hill, so were lucky to, largely, avoid the frost. It was hot, don’t forget, but we have concentration and despite that, the fermentations went well. We did lose some volume but I’m sure that it was more due to the heat than the frost – let’s say minus 20% – it isn’t 2018 in terms of yield but we can still be happy.”
Stéphane on the current market for wines:
“Of course, life continues – we have a large restaurant clientele – so at least they have time to visit us now! Fortunately, our other markets are doing well, if not quite enough to balance. From the perspective of the wines it’s positive tough – we started in 2012 and didn’t sell a bottle – by choice – until 2014.”
As every year, wines to show patience with, wines for keeping, but some are properly great!
Only one of these wines was bottled – the first – but here is a domaine that waits to commercialise their wines so you will find 2017 or possibly 2018 in the market.
2019 Moulin à Vent ‘Tradition’
This bottled but the others not yet – it could be at the end of February but they will be guided by how the wines taste. Just 1 year of elevage for this, part in foudre and part in cement – roughly equal parts.
Ripe, glossy fruit – nice higher tones too. Round, ripe but a nice attack too – there’s plenty of cushioned acidity here. Lots of finishing energy and minerality – high tones included – that’s for keeping one or two years (as a starting-point) but it’s excellent MaV!
2019 Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
65-year-old vines just at the foot of Roche Grès. This still in barrel – none new
More aromatic impact – certainly some oak but modest and it emphasises a little the Vosne-style complexity of the nose. Fresh, direct – even more-so than the last. Real intensity, the oak has shaped this a little and that will fade. The finish is certainly one of more finesse – and with aeration the oak on the nose has faded – as it will quite quickly once bottled.
70-year-old vines at the top of the hill of Rochgrès. Some new oak for this wine.
Extra colour. Here there’s some new oak – but I note only the flowers on the nose today. Wider, more structural – partly from the barrel – there’s more tannin wrapping up the tongue in dryness – but with no grain to the tannin. Extra depth and larger finishing waves of flavour. This needs a little time to come together and much more time in bottle – but great wine is in preparation here!