Tasted almost in Villé-Morgon with Fabien Collonge, 17 February 2021.
Fabien on 2020
“2020 was a year that was very easy for a vigneron – it hardly rained! A sunny year and fine maturity, we started harvesting 26 August – lots of colour and concentration – there’s richness but we didn’t lose too much volume – just one parcel that was relatively south-facing lost some. There was a little rain in the middle of the harvest but it didn’t really affect things here and I think our altitude helped a bit too.”
Fabien on 2019
“2019 was a year of ups and downs – cool then hot, then cool then hot again – a bit of a heatwave during the harvest too – which was about mid-September. Not quite the same phenolic maturity as 2020 – you can see a bit of astringence. The yields were slightly less than in 2020 and that’s because a lower parcel had a bit of frost. Less power but wines that are more aromatic, more supple, more Beaujolais than 2018.”
Two very enjoyable verticals today!
The 2019s were bottled a bit later in this case – July – as there were some stocks of 2018:
A nose that grows and grows to fill the, admittedly small, glass – a fine clarity of darker fruit. Open, slowly mouth-filling, darker flavours but so juicy and a little saline too – I always love the wine from here – this is no exception. Excellent wine.
A little more colour, but not excessive. Deeper aromatics, a little twist of roast and spice to this dark fruit – yet there’s still a good clarity. Larger-scaled in the mouth, showing more structure too – but with the fruit and energy to balance – even more salinity to finish – fine energy here. A wine that’s more obviously for keeping but is quite attractive already with a nice mineral purity to finish. Excellent again.
Lost at least 60% in 2017…
Hmm, here’s a nose that’s adding an extra complexity – just the first more mature notes – it’s a great and complex nose. A little redder fruit, again fresh, again saline – it’s structural too – still a bit of a baby – but of these, it’s the one I’d be reaching for a second glass, today.
2019 Morgon Vieilles-Vignes
Directly from a different place, more silky, more perfumed. Deeper but with a fine line of flavour – attendant freshness too. Perfumed fruit with just a twist of tannic structure – in theory, to wait for but I’m enjoying it very much. Wide and almost chewy finishing – that’s long. More than very good…
Lots of colour. Depth of aroma again – here with more aromatic purity than the 18 Chiroubles. Ooh – that’s juicy, silky, layered, delicious wine – great wine. Long, almost a little licorice accent in the finish. Bravo!
2017 Morgon Vieilles-Vignes
From Corcelettes and a smaller part next to Douby contributing about 20% of the whole
Also a small impression of evolution to the aromas – but less overt than for the Chiroubles. Wider, more tannin – more for waiting than the 2018 – there’s a width of mouth-watering flavour, more tannin in dryness of tannin in evidence, but the finish is pure and complex. Keep these for a while whilst waiting for your 2018s!