Tasted in Régnié-Durette with Sébastien Congretel, 25 February 2021.
Sébastien on 2019:
“It’s a year that I like very much. There’s a stability and a freshness to the wines such that I was confident enough to make the wines and bottle them without added sulfur. It was a year without problems such as hail or frost. With yields of 33-39 hl/ha across our range of cuvées, for what we do, that’s not a bad result. If 2019 was fine, the 2020 fermentations took a longer time – 2-3 days longer and some still haven’t finished their fermentations – the current warm weather will help though..”
My second visit here and consistent with the first visit is the fine cellar of excellent wines…
Wines with blue labels here indicate that they are contracts for grapes:
2020 Primitif VdF
‘Our ‘primeur.’ We preferred this label so that we could sell for the whole year – which you can’t with ‘nouveau’ on the label. This also without sulfur.’
There’s a vibration of aroma here, starting a little salty but slowly opening with fruit. Ooh – that’s an attractive start, round, nicely textured, also a little savoury in the style of flavour but lovely shape over the palate and good length. That’s very persistent and round finishing – I’d like a kick more energy but this is tasty, tasty…
2019 Brouilly Whole lotta Love
Blue lable – the supplier is organic, in fact biodynamic.
Here’s an attractive freshness, there’s depth to this cushioned fruit too. Mouth-filling, energetic, also a little floral. That’s a beautiful, indeed excellent wine – completely delicious. Really more Côte de Brouilly than Brouilly in style…
2019 Régnié Chacha
From Les Buyards, an alluvial soil here, quite deep then you hit clay. These vines are organic vines..
Starting a little reductive – but some swirling removes any trace. Red fruit of decent density, a slightly round aspect to the aroma. Beautifully round on the palate too, very faintly tannic but with no grain. An intensity that holds beautifully in the finish – part sweet fruit, part slightly saline. That’s another excellent wine – but decant if you’re opening anytime soon.
2019 Morgon Les Charmes Zélébrité
Almost north-east facing about 65-year-old vines. ‘I like the freshness that this parcel keeps.’ Only a small cuvée this year – and it’s practically sold out.
Again a small reduction to start – less than the Regnié. The reduction departs, leaving a nicely high-toned nose – no pyrazine. Mouth-filling – open flavoured, framed with some faintly dry tannin. Like the Regnié the flavour grows for a while in the finish – holding very well. I slightly prefer the Regnié – but not by much, another excellent wine.
The second vintage with the B-L label, before was ‘simply’ Beaujolais-Villages. Vines on bluestone – 60-80-year-old vines at 400 metres altitude.
That’s a deep, almost creamy red fruit – in terms of aroma think of Julien Sunier – very attractive. Vibrant – but a hint of gas here. Direct and intense too – there’s super freshness to this wine. Vibrant finishing too. That’s a super finish – hmmmm….
2019 Morgon Hey Joe
Blue label. Corcelettes in 3rd year of organic conversion, the other Morgon is from Charmes.
A deep nose, almost a hint spicy, darker fruited. More concentration and seriousness here – but all is fresh too. A wine that will need time to unwind, slowly melting with fine flavour – that’s another really excellent wine – so long – so involving. It really needs a year-or-two in your cellar, not that you wouldn’t enjoy it today!