Tasted in Préhy with Stéphane Sallet & Marie-Noëlle Ternynck, 16 January 2020.
Domaine de Mauperthuis
3, Grande rue de Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 42 70
Laurent and Stéphane on 2019:
It was clean, no mildew, though sometimes the chance of oïdium. We had a little frost in Saint-Bris and at the bottom of some Chablis – also a little hail – pres-Courgis, mainly a little damage to the leaves and didn’t help flowering. But it was the heat that reduced the volume every time it peaked well above 35°C we lost another 5% – but in the end, we were about 15% down but with a little VCI from 2018 it’s fine!”
Laurent and Stéphane on 2018:
“2018 quantity was ‘good.’ The year reminded of 2015 but didn’t quite hold onto the acidity as well as in 2015 – there is tension but it needed longer elevage to tease that out – I don’t think that 6-7 months elevage will have done that.”
I wasn’t disappointed – lots of new cuvées and new ideas as every year – some of them I liked a lot, some less so. Here’s a domaine that keeps pushing in all directions, making quite a few great wines along the way!
DIAM for some of the base wines, PC and Chablis, the rest are cork. Not all is bottled yet, but all is assembled:
One night of maceration, then pressed – all césar. Fermented and elevage in barrel – no sulfur until just before bottling.
Nice colour. Hmm, that’s actually quite a nice nose – even suggesting a little chocolate. Round, a little richness – well, I have to say, this is completely delicious – a nice balancing acidity too. Long. Bravo!
Pinot with all tank elevage, bottled.
Plenty of colour. Vibrant, ripe – but freshly energetic. Rich but growing intensity, fine, energetic, attractive, a little saline-edged tannin to finish. Long too – a little graphite and licorice. Super pinot – Bravo!
2018 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Grand Reserve
12 months elevage, in barrel 15% new.
A little rounder, good higher-toned freshness – more aromatic character than the last. Round and I have to say more elegant, very delicious, and long too – it’s a great finish.
2018 Maupertuis, Irancy
Multiple parcels blended here. Perhaps 10% césar, made in the same style as the grand reserve. ‘I think a great vintage to save in Irancy.’
A nose of depth and a certain character – the oak is not showing like the last wine. Supple, super texture, more oak influence here but this is wiry, concentrated, balanced and very tasty Irancy! Excellent.
This a barrel sample. All pinot – 55-year-old vines.
A little more herbed freshness. Freshness in the mouth too; volume, great, great mid-palate depth of flavour and complexity – great Irancy!
Perhaps more than 10% césar, the average age of the vines is old – about 1920 the planting.
More colour. A little reductive chocolate on the nose. More elegantly textured, more driving and direction in the shape. Long, long, graphite minerality in the finish. Today I like the energy of the Mazelots more, but in time I really don’t expect there’s much to separate these two, qualitatively.
2018 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Amphore
12 months of maceration of destemmed grapes ‘hand’ pigeage in the first days, in jars then 6 months in old barrels.
A higher-toned nose, an oxidative impression but not fully. Mouth-filling, wide, complex, even a little mineral – this is brilliantly complex though perhaps less gourmand than most of the previous. I will be interested to see how it develops.
2018 Maupertuis, Bourgogne César Amphore
Same system as the last.
Darker colour of-course. Again a little slightly oxidative note, but then a wider freshness. I like the drive and shape of this, lovely acidity, the tannin very well managed, long too. Great character – of the two I’d take this. Super.
New cuvée, 12 hours of maceration then vinification in barrel as if a white wine. The rosé was the saignée, this was the press wine.
Plenty of colour, but less deep than the previous wines. The nose has more césar about it, but it’s not too bad in the ripe 2018 vintage. In the mouth it’s wide, silky, and absolutely delicious – easy, easy to drink but intense all the same. Bravo!
Two ‘orange wines’ before the whites:
2018 Maupertuis, Saint-Bris Amphore
12 months amphore maceration, 6 months in acacia barrels.
Hmm, that’s a nicely vibrant nose – very inviting. Clearly sauvignon, complex, a little tropical fruit. Nicely tannic finishing, long too – I like the nose and finish, less-so the first fruit flavours, but this is very good!
2018 Maupertuis, Chablis Amphore
Made as the last wine, except a little more juice – grapes and must.
Hmm – that’s a nice nose – wide attractive, a little mineral, slightly apple. In the mouth great shape and a super flavour – non-standard – of course, but wide, fine shape and again a little touch of tannin / salinity. Super.
2018 Maupertuis, Saint-Bris
The classic cuvée
That’s rather a composed and modest nose – no impression of sauvignon. Silky, wide, layered with a modest richness. This feels great in the mouth and tastes very well, a little minerality running through the wine. Not quite as long as the chardonnays in 2018 but tasty wine.
2018 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Truffièrre
A very vibrant nose, a little greener fruit but more exotic than lime. Nicely cool fruit – wide, lots of ripeness, a fruit with some apricot and plenty of finishing minerality – I’d wait for this to calm a little, it starts very ‘in your face’ but finishes beautifully.
2018 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Chardonnay La Grande Reserve
12 months in barrel, 10% new – same as the red. No fining or filtration.
This nose has a lovely vibration of aroma at the core – very inviting. Cool fruit again, here with a little extra (probably barrel) spice. Complex finishing. This is super today – while waiting for the Truffières.
Because Irancy blanc isn’t allowed! Above Paradis – 65-year-old vines. Only old oak elevage. A great vine for massale selection – tiny grapes, really quite different.
A wide nose, not so deep – attractive. Ooh – vibrant, lots of direction and minerality – this is super, muscular, layered and long – so persistent – bravo!
2018 Maupertuis, Saint-Bris “Vendange Tardive”
A new cuvée – of course! ‘We started harvesting when our neighbour started to prune in November. It was practically 17° potential when picked and fermented to a bit more than 13°… A 400 litre tonneau for fermenting, the fermentation stopped by itself.
Hmm, a little exotic fruit but inviting, faintly herbed, faintly mint-leaf – super. Of-course this is sweet – very sweet – but here is a lot of complexity, herbed, bouquet-garni – always interesting and really very saline finishing – it’s a meal in a glass.
Now Domaine des Marronniers:
A 5-hectare parcel called Temps Perdu in Préhy. Youngest plantation of the domaine – about 15 years old – behind the buildings of JM Brocard. With DIAM.
That’s a nice nose, almost an acidic freshness. Great texture, not too rich but silky, very saline. Elegantly insinuating. Excellent PC, bravo elegant 2018 PC!
2018 Marronniers, Chablis
Different parcels from Préhy and Courgis – about 10 hectares worth – all tank elevage.
Deep, mineral, a touch of exotic to the fruit but only modestly-so. Wider, but also more mouth-filling – a bit more peps here. Energy, a little but still not a lot structural. A wave of finishing flavour – a proper wave as there’s some salinity here. This is excellent!
2018 Marronniers, Chablis Les Malantes Vieilles-Vignes
An old 1976 parcel near the Brocard winery. 12 months in foudres, 3 months in tank – 2 large foudres in total.
Hmm – nice weight and width of aroma – less overtly mineral to start but in the depth it’s there. Round a little richer texture too, more a layered wine than a wine of drive. For that I’d take the previous wine before this – delicious as it is.
2.5 ha but all in Butteaux. All tank elevage, for 15 months.
Almost a little smoky aspect to this more forward minerality. Bright, fresh, complex, and a fine combination of vibrant energy and intensity. Bravo – super Chablis in 2018.
2018 Marronniers, Chablis 1er Côte de Jouan
Elevage and fermentation in older barrel. They say that this needs more time to open than the Montmains.
That’s got a nice weight and width of pretty minerality, slowly becoming rounder – this is very inviting. Rounder shape in the mouth too, the minerality curtailed a little, perhaps. But that’s a nice finish of ripe citrus with long slow waves of finishing flavour. For my preference, there’s no photo required, the Montmains is much more classic – but both are equally delicious.
2018 Marronniers, Chablis Valmur
Bought grapes – in the middle of Valmur on the east side toward Clos a contract since 2015. Do the harvesting here. 12 months in large-format barrels, this won’t be bottled for another 2-3 months. This sample not bright.
There’s a little oak cushioning to the nose. Flavour that’s framed by a lovely salinity – inside is freshness and minerality – that’s lovely – there’s oak here in the core too, but it will soon fade. Delicious waves of fresh, finishing flavour with some salinity. As a minimum, excellent, it could be great.