Tasted in Chablis with Patrice Vocoret, 06 January 2020.
Domaine Vocoret et Fils
40 Route d’Auxerre
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 53
Patrice on 2019:
A little more than half a harvest – I’d say 2/3rds – but about 200 hl lacking after I sent so much to distil from 2018! For whole appellation of Chablis about 37 hl/ha in 2019.
Patrice on 2018:
“Agreeably surprised – and everyone was surprised at what the magic vine could deliver – a rendement of such an order after such heat and dryness. It was an easy year, relatively, with some nuances, but nothing special. Wines are made in the vineyard – we had a lot of grapes, but they were fantastic grapes! You could compare the maturity in 2018 to those wines of 2015 or 2016, but in 18 we have more grapes, though cleaner grapes – fortunately, we had enough space. This quantity meant that we could actually make a more rigorous selection as it was clear we wouldn’t get the whole VCI – and clearly we could triage a little of the wine that went to distil.”
A super range from Patrice in 2018 – plenty of colour to all these wines – not the classic green. ‘The wine was honey-coloured already in the press.’ A fine and quite classic range, despite the ripeness of the fruit – not a high level of either salinity or overt minerality, but certain wines properly showcase both. Clarity and some concentration.
All DIAM seals for more than 5 years now. June-July a big part of the bottling for generics was done, plus a few 1ers. A larger part after the harvest finishing with GCs in December.
2018 Petit Chablis
From the plateau above the grand crus
Ooh – that’s a very aromatic, perfumed nose of green-shaded fruit THAT’S just a shade exotic. Big, fine acidity, layered, and energetic. Certainly not a wine from other places despite the ripeness. Delicious!
A large part in Prehy near Brocard.
Also a nose of impact, a little more classy/classic. Lovely energy, fizzing, delicious wine with a sneaky finishing extract. Excellent Chablis!
Always the same parcels, planted about 1970-75. Plenty near the Brocard winery in Prehy
Saline. Direct, less width but an inviting depth to the aroma. Yes – structural, proper Chablis – but no hard edges, the flavour melting over the palate with an extra burst of finishing intensity. That’s even better – bravo!
2018 Chablis 1er Montmains
A fine nose but much more compact. More intense, nicely driving flavour. A really good Montmains.
2018 Chablis 1er Forêts
A little more floral width on this fine nose of clarity. Wider, more weight more intensity too. Little finishing waves of flavour Proper Chablis finish. Excellent!
This with large-format barrels. This bottled in December.
A nose that’s beautifully detailed but a little more compact than the ‘basic’ Forets. Wider, more steely, growing in intensity, more vin de garde, vibrant at the end. Bravo!
2018 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Beugnons, Epinottes, Ronciéres, Melinots and Sechets – almost all the Sechets is older vines – pretty much everything except Lys in this!
A little more cushioned, suggesting a reduction. More incisive impact, wide, complex, lovely energy again – much more accessible than the last, ripe but driving and partly mineral. Very tasty wine and very long too!
2018 Chablis 1er Vaillons Vieilles-Vignes
This from Sechets, planted in 1950-55, oldest vines of the domaine.
This more open and more overtly complex, a little spice action too. Wide, beautifully structured wine, plenty of concentration, really mouth-watering. Less classic fruit flavour vs the Forets but quite a wine! Excellent!
2018 Chablis 1er Côte Lechets
Ooh – that’s an invitation – a lovely nose of clarity and freshness. Plenty of gas here. Lots of mouth-watering energy though. A little more for waiting again, and properly saline finishing. Excellent
2018 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
A ripe but fresh, not a big nose but an inviting one. Full, growing in energy and intensity in-tandem. Supple, layered, ripe finishing but with fine structure and balance. Not my favourite fruit, but fine wine all the same!
2018 Chablis Blanchots
2.12 ha owned here.
Not a fully open nose but there’s an inviting, slightly cushioned floral impression here. Impact, concentrated, layered – proper GC! Slowly winding the concentration around the tongue, more than enough freshness, mouth-watering. Wait 2-3 years. Super wine!
2018 Chablis Les Clos
A vibrant nose, one that needs a little swirling to bring out the clarity. More drive and direction, more overtly mineral too, mouth-watering. This holds a super finishing intensity. A super finish. Another baby – be patient.
And to finish – an equally ripe vintage?
2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons
A little round, ripeness but also much invitation. Hmm, more middle palate volume than most of the 2018, more unctuous too – but less clarity of flavour. Wide and long, still young. Not exactly like 2018 – this seems more cushioned less energetic – but it’s very tasty!