Tasted with Thomas Ventoura in Fontenay-près-Chablis, 20 January 2020.
3 Rue des Puits
Tel: +33 3 86 42 19 39
Thomas on 2019:
“Quantity. There’s less of that, but the quality is there for sure. There was some frost here, then the flowering wasn’t great, then the heat – there are no miracles for the volume – we’re almost 25% down – 43 hl/ha. So with the VCI from 2018 I’d say that the volume is okay.”
Thomas on 2018:
“In the vines it was quite an easy vintage – the weeds didn’t really grow, there was no worry about disease – though resulting in a rendement that I haven’t seen before – but with quality too. The wines had a long and natural fermentation, no added yeasts. I did have some worries about the acidities but they are not bad. So we have some stock and don’t always need to sell the youngest of wines!”
A super range from Thomas – I really enjoyed the slight austerity of these zesty, citrus-skin finishes!
All the wines are sealed with DIAM; DIAM3 for the Petit Chablis and DIAM5 for the others, still with 35 mg/l of sulfur as before with cork – which seems quite high to me – ‘But everyone seems satisfied,’ says Thomas, and I noted nothing reductive.”
2018 Petit Chablis
Bottled in July, two parcels in Fontenay.
A decent width, fresh, slightly herbed, lemon-fruit. Fine drive. This has lovely energy – wide, more lime fruit incisiveness in the middle – very wide, vibrant finishing – a little attractive zesty austerity – I like a lot – excellent.
Also bottled in July, all tank elevage, same as the PC
A little more width of aroma – more complex, agrume-style citrus. More composed, but also more concentrated. An impressive width of finishing flavour – a similar zesty citrus-skin finish to the PC. Mouth-watering and very persistent.
2018 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A single parcel of 1 ha in Vaupulins. 50% in barrel for fermentation then assembled and all further elevage in tank. Also bottled in July.
More depth of riper fruit – perhaps touched by oak, but only faintly so. Beautiful texture – silky, wide, melting over the palate – no hard edges, easy but with a good weight of zesty finishing flavour again. Holding even longer in the finish.
2018 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
A new cuvée – bought as must, and vinified here. The fermentation in tank and then the elevage in barrel – the reverse of the Fourchaume. Bottled in July.
Not a big nose, and certainly some salt and spice from the barrel – but not too overt. That’s great in the mouth, more incisive that any of the previous wines with a beautiful mineral base to its flavour. The oak is there, but actually less than in the aromas – this will already be giving a lot of pleasure in 12 months time – excellent wine, maybe even better than that. Just a little less zesty in the finish than the previous wines…