Tasted in Chablis with Mark Cameron, 15 January 2020.
Domaine Servin
20 Avenue d’Oberwesel
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 18 90 00
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Mark on 2019:
“2019 was a year that in the end, was amazing. You can easily see why 2016 would have 70% less, but 2019? No disease, hardly because of the heat, there was a touch of frost, so it remains a surprise that practically everything was 30-50% down. But the flowering wasn’t that great so there were smaller grapes and some fewer. Chablis doesn’t historically have the concept of leaf-cover and because of that, there were losses through burnt (roast) grapes. The total acidities are down, yet the pHs are low – which doesn’t really make sense – but we have super energy and perhaps more density due to low yields…”
Mark on 2018:
“pretty much everything is high 12s to 13°, we had just a single tank that was nearer 14°. We’ve 37 hectares and try to pick where we have to pick, so started the 4th September – which is relatively early for us. A vintage of black and white – the first half rain and cloud, the second half sun and heat. But thick skins gave us the quality of the juice and the concentration in 2018.”
The wines…
Some really great 2018s in the range – paint me impressed!
Not everything is bottled yet – they were only just finishing the last bottling of Chablis 2017; “It’s always been something of the style to the production here, and It’s no photo,” says Mark, “The last bottlings are always the greatest!” So far only 1 grand cru has had a bottling. DIAM is used for the PC, all the rest are cork but half of the Chablis is also sealed with screw-cap.
‘One of our smallest vineyards at 0.61 ha in Sur les Clos, 27-year-old vines.’ The only DIAM-sealed wine – sold out in 3 months normally.
A very faintly spiced, ripe but fresh citrus nose – not big but inviting. Supple, lovely texture, concentrated, mineral – this has a divine combination of complexity and flavour. So Yum!
2018 Chablis
A blend of many hectares – 12 – 90% from Pargues around Prehy in this cuvée. Multiple bottlings, some not yet done
That’s a very pretty nose – again, not full power but elegant and complex – a super invitation. A little extra burst of flavour, subtly more structural too. Vibrant finishing – such super villages – no hard edges, very elegant, completely delicious. Excellent wine.
3 ha of massale selected vines in the middle of Pargues. 30% in old oak the rest in tank.
Here’s a little more aromatic salinity, there is a clarity of fruit deeper in the aroma. More muscular, more saline – not fat though a faint richness of texture. Beautiful line. A little less 2018 and with super presence – a slow-burning finish, not big but long. Bravo.
2018 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
A little riper core of fruit aroma – ripe but more lime style than lemon. Big, wide, sweeping lines of flavour. Finely mineral – tangy, zesty finishing – that’s a great finishing flavour full of energy – love that finale, a little less the nose today, but that’s absolutely excellent wine.
‘Definitely the most improved 1er over the last years.’
More fruit-forward, more clarity of agrume, slowly floral too. Big, mineral, beautiful clarity – ooh that’s super – there’s mouth-filling volume here without too much density. Lovely, lovely wine – such clarity!
2018 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
46-year-old vines, also coming with the Vaucoupins purchase.
A little extra ripeness and vibrancy of aroma too. Wide, plenty of mouth-filling volume here, a touch of salinity on the leading edge of flavour – almost a sizzle to this fine combination of fruit and minerality. Delicious and rather elegant but no lack of concentration behind.
This has a very subtle width of aroma, deliciously attractive fresh agrume fruit – but not a big nose. Wide, fresh, mineral, a touch of barrel in the middle but this has presence, salinity, and a beautifully layered, rippling finish. Lose the oak and it’s great!
Hmm, that has an extra depth of mineral invitation – a great nose. Practically a faint tannin, fresh, agrume, almost a suggestion of mandarin and then right at the end a picture-perfect layer of lip-smackingly tasty salinity. A perfect 2018 1er Cru – bravo!
2018 Chablis 1er Forêts
0.37 ha – 23 yo vines – one of the younger, planted at almost 10k density – the older Chablis plantations were 5.6 k – From an old oak barrel – no bottling yet. Only 2 barrels.
A width, subtle aromatics but quite inviting. Open, nice in the mouth, a little salinity at ouch of tannin – this holds long without a big exuberance. Lots of potential.
Something older?
Deeper colour. The aromas of age, a little lanolin, beeswax – that’s a big invitation. Hmm, that’s really complex, not ultra old but clearly ready to drink, complex, and a burst of finishing mineral – that’s such a great finish. Les Clos 2002 – I got the vintage, but as usual, that’s where it stops for me.