Tasted in Courgis with Alice de Moor, 08 January 2020.
Alice & Olivier De Moor
4 rue Jacques Ferrand
89800 Courgis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 47 94
www.aetodemoor.fr
More reports for Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor
Alice on 2019:
“2019 was another early vintage, though less. Again a warm vintage, again a dry vintage – but warmer and drier than 2018 even. We did have some frost in our aligoté but not in the chardonnay, so the reverse of 2017. Practically the whole vintage was quite dry so no maladies but we also expected much less production but in the end it wasn’t so bad – practically correct – though I know some had much less. The wines seem well-balanced – with our years in bio I have the impression that the vines resist the water-stress better.”
Alice on 2018:
“Just incredible! Of course, an early vintage, but only one canicule – there were two in 2019! The summer was very dry but just a few small rains came before the harvest. The ripening came rather quickly – very aromatic grapes with good balance. We had more than anticipated – it was clear that there would be a little more after the flowering so we bought a couple more foudres – but we still weren’t sufficiently prepared! We harvested in two waves 5-22 September and we were full, so had to do some bottling to make space and then did some more from 08 October – aligoté brought in at 13-13.5° it’s like they reach a maximum level and then don’t go further. We had very long fermentations though, some still haven’t finished. We had to modify a little how we worked, more or less tanks or wood – because all was full – the wines went where they could go, not always where they usually go. Had to use a little sulfur to control lactic bacteria as not everything fermented dry – normally we don’t so it was a lot of work in the cellar in 2018. There was also the question of where to put the 2019s! Some 2018s are bottled, we have about a dozen cuvées, 5 are now in bottle. The last time we were close to such a yield was 2004, but we also have an extra 3 hectares since then! I don’t think that we have any concerns about dilution here – yes we had practically a double harvest, but we normally only make 30 hl/ha so with 60 we are still within the allowed rendement.”
The wines…
Out of the ordinary, characterful plus, importantly, deliciously drinkable wines – as every year!
2018 Bourgogne Aligoté
This bottled in September. This all tank elevage, with the grapes that were harvested in October.
A full nose, golden but not the full-force of fruit. Supple, concentrated, wide and slightly mineral. Impressive finishing weight of mineral/fruit flavour – very considered, not big energy but all is well-balanced. Super impressive.
Half tank, the rest split between a new Stockinger foudre and an older one. Also bottled at the end of September.
Fresh, clean aromas but also hinting at concentration. A faint prickle of gas. A little modest oak, but here is a large, mouth-filling wave of flavour – fresh, lovely energy, delicious wine. I’d wait a little for the oak to fade, but it’s far from dominating. Bravo Bourgogne, long too!
Masqué is normally for contracts, but this is actually two (newish, 2016 and 2018) domaine vines that are in conversion to bio. All tank elevage, also bottled start of September.
Not the same impact but similar width and some floral notes. More open, plenty of density, – there is lovely concentration and clarity here – floral flavours too, finishing is small waves. Bravo!
2018 Chablis l’Humeur du Temp
19 December bottling. 50% tank, 25% foudre, the rest in barrels. Multiple parcels, many very small – there are over 10.
A more compact nose, yet of freshness and a ripe core of citrus. Wider, a little more saline too, mouth-watering flavour – a riper style of fruit that’s growing more intense over the palate. Very tasty wine that’s great finishing – really great – super wine but today I prefer the fresher Masqué.
2018 Chablis Bel Air et Clardy
Still about 3 g/l of sugar so was filtered to avoid any remaining yeast in suspension. This with all barrel elevage.
A little more open, riper fruit aroma in the style of Humeur du Temps. Full, beautifully textured, playing over and around the tongue – finding every place. This is gorgeous wine in the mouth – generous, faintly rich, deliciously finishing and very long. Super-tasty wine! Excellent!
All the following tasted from tank:
2018 Chablis Côteaux de Rosette
Lieu-dit near Beauregard 1er cru, assembled 3 months, maybe to be bottled March-April, currently about 4 g/l of sugar remaining.
A little darker impression to this nose. Bigger, more energy in the mouth, ooh this is long, deliciously long,
The second vintage for this wine – bought at the end of 2016. Very steep here. On lees in a Stockinger foudre.
A tighter nose, but also a nose of clarity. Some gas, lots of energy, more intense – ooh that’s super finishing. Bravo! I love that!
2018 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
‘A vineyard rented since the end of 2016, 90 years old vines, a vineyard that was already organic. The owner was ill and couldn’t work the vines. Soil is very different here – it could be from a garden, brown soil, marne – we have a horse that does the ploughing. On lees assembled from tank and barrels previously.
A little more width, almost a smoke. More gas. More mineral width here, a subtle oak too. A super finishing wave of flavour – excellent wine…
