Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 07 January 2020.
8 Chemin des Hâtes
Tel: +33 6 45 47 44 42
Jean-François on 2019:
“2019 was a little complicated because we had some frost at the start of April which returned at the end of April and then again in May – each time ten days in-between without frost – that’s hard for the vigneron – then minus again mid-May – but no damage – which is just as well we’d already removed all the candles from the vines. There was some frost damage but not excessive. With aspersion, candles and some electric heating, I’m protecting 10 hectares now. Contrary to 2018 the start of the year was rather dry – even warm, some buds starting to push already before the frost. In June the heat came and the vines grew very quickly – at the end of July you could already see some hydric stress. The north-east of Chablis managed to get a little more rain than the rest, 50-60 mm over the summer the double of most of Chablis. Not a big harvest but a correct harvest. For a number of reasons there is lower production in Chablis in the last years; older vines producing less, newer vines of quality that already produce less – we still have to make enough to live so I use a blend of plant types. Then, of course, the heat of the recent summers, but it’s not just that. Anyway, back to the wines of 2019, so far, I’m very happy with them – I’ve some impression of a blend of the 14-15 vintages.”
Jean-François on 2018:
“In Maligny we didn’t all make a ton of wine, we had some parts touched (9-10 June) by hail – 25% of the vines. Naturally, we were unhappy with that at the time but in the end, we had more correct volumes around 70 hl/ha on average. I harvested much later than some neighbours who were in the vines on 22 August, for me I started 10th September. I’ve never seen such a variation in the style of wines in a single vintage. I like the tension and freshness of the wines that we’ve produced – we didn’t harvest in the afternoons, rather the night and finish at lunchtime.”
This is a very fine address in 2018 – wines of concentration, balance but energy too – they are very ‘Chablis.’ Strongly recommended.
2018 Petit Chablis
Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis. Bottled in July. , there’s also a cork-sealed bottle (Trescasses cork-agglomerate) that is more ready – I tasted it.
Concentrated, waxy ripe lemon fruit. There’s plenty of mouth-filling volume and an acid-mineral tension that’s rather good – wait six more months for this to completely integrate, but this is excellent!
Here from Maligny, there are some parts with clay but mainly it is more stony ground. ‘Maligny does have a certain roundness though.’ Not is all bottled at the same time.
A big nose, slightly saline and DIAM-style savoury reductive impression – inviting but still needs a bit of air. Wide, clarity – really mouth-filling – a wine that packs a great punch. The finish is really great, complex, slightly saline. Potentially an excellent villages Chablis.
Three parcels with vine ages of 112 – but that will be replaced in another 2 years, 84, and 55-60, all worked by horse for 3 years now. Just under 10% barrel elevage
A more compact but fine nose. More driving, more intense energy, that is really mouth-watering. A wine that needs time rather than the aeration of the last. Beautiful subtle waves of agrume finishing fruit – long after the wine is (in theory) gone. Bravo.
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort, 55-year-old vines. This bottled in July.
Also not fully open but this nose has clarity, minerality and complexity – it’s a super invitation! Ooh, a big wine, super-mouth-watering, super citrus, almost a suggestion of orange flesh in the flavours. Great Fourchaume. A great finish.
From bought grapes – labelled Jean-Francois Bordet.
A nice depth of clarity – topped with flowers – really very inviting again. So mouth-watering, so delicious, so a sweet agrume-soup. Great Vaillons. Bravo and so minerally long too! I didn’t think that this would be able to follow the Fourchaume – I was wrong!
2018 Chablis Les Preuses
Bottled December. All elevage in a wooden tank – but a 12-years-old tank.
A little more concentration on this nose, a note that’s less directly inviting than the Vaillons today. More impact. Vibrantly complex, intense, the flavour – perhaps from the wood as it reflects the nose – is not my favourite but this has everything to lay happily in your cellar for years – I’d like to return one day – excellent wine.
Large- format barrels with a mix of ages – none were new.
A cleaner width of aroma, deep and floral at the top – more vertical. Ooh – very wide, dynamic wine – really a bubbling, changing complexity here. A great finish – great Chablis.
And to finish:
2012 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
This colour hasn’t budged – it’s very young-looking. A bigger more cushioned but engagingly complex wine of some ripe but fresh citrus – a few minutes and it’s all the more fresh, with almost a petrol suggestion. Lovely in the mouth – full of volume, complex, mineral – not showing much age. A gorgeous finish, faintly saline. Still a baby!