Tasted in Chablis with Sylvie Quittot & Patrick Puize, 14 January 2020.
25 rue Emile Zola
Tel: +33 3 86 18 85 73
Patrick on 2019:
“2019 could have been better – we have a smaller quantity of 1er and grand crus due to yields – but we knew that that would be the case before the harvest so we picked 24 hectares instead of 18! 60% of the fermentations are now done, it’s good because we have strong alcohols around but we were looking for skin ripeness so 14° but good acidity – we can’t really look at it like old-style Chablis, this was what the vintage delivered, but there’s a good freshness in the wine. We started Saturday the 14th. 43 hl/ha average for the 24 ha we picked. Fortunately, the contract prices stayed stable in 2019, they even went down for the 2018s, but not much for the 1er and grand crus!”
Patrick on 2018:
“It was more than generous so I’m happy – quality and quantity! We expected good quantity, the actual amount not. We started picking 1st September. No vines really suffered from the dryness – the roots go deep enough and we had enough water in the first half of the season. I think there’s good freshness to the wines, almost no malo of-course. Good skin maturity and our alcohols not too high – more pickers to cut faster – I had almost everything harvested between 11.8° and 12.2° and we left all but one of them like that, with no sugar. It’s frankly unlikely that we will see the combination of yield and quality again. It was the rain of 15 August that brought plenty of extra cash but there was still another 2 weeks before harvesting, fermentations went well, ”
An early picker and so like for his 2017s Patrick can bask in the glory of his fresh, chiselled and largely classic 2018s – well done to him!
It’s a relatively early bottling here, starting in April. The first grand crus done at the start of July. Have done it like this since 2008.
Year of planting, from near St.Bris – 50% barrel. All cork
Quite a tight nose. Wide, mouth-watering, tasty wine. Lovely line, faintly saline. A more than nice finish – for aligoté that’s great
Completely limestone, a cold valley, the upper part in full sun, the lower part only in the afternoon so two pickings 4 days apart
A lovely nose, quite floral. Ooh, that’s such a lovely, intense, delicious flavour – bravo so fine!
2018 Chablis Terroir Des Couvert
Vines near Vaulorent.
A more reductive and mineral nose. Wide, a marked reduction, but also a nicely mouth-watering shape too. Long and mineral finishing.
2018 Chablis Terroirs de Chablis
From the north-facing slopes of Forets. The last was only on limestone, this has some clay too.
A good freshness here. Ooh, that’s vibrant, direct, tasty, a fine drive too. That’s excellent 2018.
2018 Chablis Terrior de Chapelle
Two parcels in Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – one on the plateau, the other near the cemetery. Planted in 1974 and the 1990s but most is from 1959.
More mineral again, faintly reductive. Richer, layered, concentrated – more 2018. Tasty wine.
‘Our thickest layers of clay’
A sweeter, more floral minerality, almost a licorice. Vibrant, extra mineral – 100% Chablis – great wine for the vintage.
In Chapelots, but the villages part.
A little more c0mpact this nose. Driving, direct, ultra-mineral. The nose needs to expand, but otherwise that’s another great 2018!
2018 Chablis Terroirs de Fleys
A riper fruit in this narrow, and fresh nose. Very wide, mineral, more added, also more complex though. A touch of barrel in the falour, excellent wine.
2018 Chablis 1er Vaillons Les Minots
The warmest spot in this closed valley. ‘We often start our harvest here – I don’t want confit fruit.’
A more overt oak, good width of aroma. Lots of freshness, lots of fine minerality, more intense finishing – no surprise! Modestly oaked so have a little patience, but excellent wine.
From Vaillons – the third year for this wine. The valley opens a little here, planted east-west – everything else here is north-south.
A finer nose, airy. Big in the mouth, ooh – I like this very much – layered, sparklingly tasty, bravo 2018!
Here, vines on the vein of limestone in Vaillons, planted in 1961.
A bigger nose, still airy. Broader on the palate too – but this is a wine of super minerality – such a great set of wines!
2018 Chablis 1er Forêts
This wine is more toasty, faintly oaked, indeed a little apply. This is big and mineral but also, long but in evolved style.
A pretty, fresher nose. Broad, a little more structure, almost a tannin. Phenolic – great wine!
A narrower nose, but growing with a lovely perfume. Bigger, more vibrant, tons of energy but there’s concentration too. Great again!
2018 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
More sweetly floral yet still an airy style. Extra density, still a nice coolness of fruit. Seriously great finish!
Not the steepest part, deeper soil here, ‘but the grower is good.’ Picked at 11.6° and ‘pushed’ to 12.2° the only one chaptalized.
A pretty, yellow fruit, faintly padded. Ooh – great, concentrated. I love the energy here with a certain extra concentration. Fabulous!
‘I pick this only in the morning – if I pick in the afternoon it accentuates the fruit – and there’s already enough of that here!’
A much more compact nose. Fresher, cooler fruit, more overtly mineral just a hint less sweet – more for waiting. A great finish – a little mandarin and plenty of structure – this could be great, but be patient!
2018 Chablis Bougros Côte de Bouguerots
Wow – that’s a seriously great nose – a mineral vibration shot through an agrume fruit – yes! Big, vibrant, more maturity – big tasty wine. Excellent
2018 Chablis Valmur
A toned-down version of the Bouguerots. Big, wide, cool and mineral, ooh that’s super again. So, so, long…
2018 Chablis Le Clos
Actually a slightly more compact but still pure nose. Full, energetic. Perhaps a little oak – not showing the same clarity as the previous GCs. But a great finish again…
Concentrated but still floral. Extra energy, a little more direction, wide, long, ooh everything without too much excess. Super, super. Love!