Tasted in Chablis with Valérie Beaufumé, 11 January 2018.
Domaine Beaufumé
5 rue des Vignes
89800 Lignorelles
Tel: +33 3 86 47 56 32
Valérie on 2017:
“This year brought the frost. We are quite morcellated in terms of parcels so not everything was affected in the same way – we still don’t have as much volume as in 2016, as it wasn’t really frosted here in 2016. That vintage was plenty of mildew but essentially gave us a correct harvest volume. Essentially 2017 was a little more than half a harvest with a little help from the VCI. But the wines look superb in terms of quality – good degrees and a great acidity too – really approaching the limit of too much acidity – so although the grapes were ‘ready’ from an analytical perspective we still waited 2-3 days more to harvest. 17s were already racked last week as the malos were finished.”
Valérie on 2016:
“In 2016 we managed to make our volume as the hail and frost was not so strong here, more was the work in the vines against the maladies. I used a little less lees in this vintage versus 2015 as the wines have a little less power.”
Commercially everything is developing here but not at full pace because the prices in bulk are practically more advantageous than selling in bottle. But they are still investing in extra space for another press, so that they can do more vinifications by parcel – more place for debourbage too. Slowly but surely.
The wines…
Whilst it’s unclear what may be commercialised from the domaine – except for the last wine – all the wines were of great quality: Fine, fresh, classic and delicious Chablis in all instances…
2016 Petit Chablis
From Lignorelles. Not yet decided when to bottle there’s still some chance it might be sold in bulk – still in tank, was racked less than 1 week ago – keeping some fine lees
A really inviting aroma of pretty citrus and floral notes. Bright, lots of energy, acidity too – at the limit but not passing. The gas in here exacerbating all – but essentially this is great wine for the label. A style of grapefruit fruit..
2016 Chablis
Like the last, tasted from tank.
Lovely colour – accented with green. A lime style of fruit – but no austerity. Some gas again. Lots of volume and energy here, melting flavour over the palate. Really super stuff. Intense, but never too much, ending with a saline twist to the lime – lots of energy, lots of enjoyment! Yum!
2016 Chablis #2
This will go to the négoce so there’s not a separate name.
More width of aroma – very fine, faintly spiced lemon but finer still and with a depth of minerality. Not much overt gas, extra mineral, mouth-watering but still with very fine citrus anecdotes – simply lovely wine and really super-classic and tasty.
2016 Chablis #3
This already bottled – 50 hl done at the beginning of December. Because all the previous wines were tasted from tank, there is always the chance that they will be sold in bulk – this, bottle may be the only wine commercialised here – it is too early to say.
The nose is more like the first with a little lime in the mix – elegant, almost but not quite in the direction of flowers. Bright, fresh, transparent, mouth-watering wine of both purity and intensity. Just a hint of lime rigour in the finish but wait six months and it will be gone – excellent! Lovely wine!