Tasted in Chablis with Dominique Collet (as her son, Romain, was at the ‘Millesimé Bio presentations in Montpellier), 29 January 2018.
Domaine Jean Collet & Fils
15 avenue de la Liberté
Tel: +33 3 86 42 11 93
Dominique on 2017:
In 2017 we were frosted again in our Petit Chablis. Whilst we were, theoretically, protected in the grand crus it was still a very sharp frost of -8°C at the end of April, so we still lost some of the yield. Overall we lost about 25% of our production in 2017 but that’s compared to the 60% that we lost in 2016 when large parts were hailed.
Romain (last year) and Dominique on 2016:
“In 2016 we didn’t harvest 10 of our 40 hectares. There was frost in Montmains. The grapes that remained were hard attacked by mildew in Milly – in the end we lost 60%. We saw that in 2016 the organically managed vines did better than the ‘traditional’ as they were a little less ravaged by the mildew. We had good quality grapes though. We chose to harvest quite quickly as there was chance that the grapes might have too much botrytis, but in the end I was very happy with their cleanliness.”
I always rate this a very good source, but I was still surprised by the weight of concentration at this address yet matched with fine balance too – some really great wines in 2016.
No Petit Chablis…
Normally the assembly of about 10 hectares worth of grapes.
A little reductive toast. Very nice texture in the mouth – I like this feeling and there’s a great young concentration here too. This needs to open more, but this is a great start!
A south, south-east facing 1.20 ha in Villy. Was an old woodland where truffles were once found. ‘AB’ label since 2015 and a longer elevage here – this has been organic for 20 years
This is wider, fresher, lithe yellow fruit. More width and freshness – more open and fine – this is less muscular more ready. Great stuff!
2016 Chablis 1er Montmains
Like the previous wines only stainless-steel elevage here. From 4 parcels of true Montmains amounting to 5 hectares.
Bright, open and a little floral/mineral mix on this nose. Clean, wide, ingraining, concentrated again. Super mouth-watering citrus. Super wine.
Bought in 2005, replanted in 2008, 0.92 hectares. Like the last some oak but this time with the tank part in concrete ‘eggs’ – also viticulture Bio. This is the 4th vintage after replanting in 2008, the last couple of years it went into the Montmains.
A narrower nose but deep and fine energy. Big in the mouth, melting, mineral, saline, complex – everything is here – great wine.
2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons
10 hectares here – lucky it’s mum’s favourite – ‘I can’t understand that anyone wouldn’t like it’ she says! From epinottes, minot, encieres, chatains and en Vaillons. 5% in barrel the rest in tank – after malo on part goes into older barrels.
A little more open, growing a beautifully vibrant aroma. In the mouth like sherbet, growing, with bubbling intensity, wide – again with a little salinity but cleaner finishing. Super wine!
2016 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Just one parcel, 0.32 hectares with a manual harvest as there’s a lot of millerandes here. 100% demi-muids (600 litres) for 8-9 months then in tank to finish
A very subtle oak on the nose – slowly growing more in the direction of vanilla. Ooh – this is great in the mouth – concentrated again, complex, and going very long in the finish. Excellent wine!
2 parcels – one of 0.25 plus another of 1.80 in Les Chapots. ‘The smaller brings a richness, the other a colder area brings the tension and vivacity.’ Vinified separately and then blended before bottling. All in barrel with 5% new.
A stronger lick of oak on this nose. Direct, silky, concentrated, layers and layers of finishing flavour. Very long. This is great wine – but it’s for waiting for.
Unfortunately we didn’t get to taste the last wines which were still in barrel, because there was some flooding in the cellar (rain, rain, rain…) and Dominique didn’t like the smell in the cellar.