Tasted in Fontenay-Près-Chablis with Thierry Mothe, 08 January 2018.
Domaine du Colombier
42 Grand Rue
Tel: +33 3 86 42 15 04
Thierry on 2017:
“2017 was a little bit better in terms of quantity vs 2016 – Fourchaume and the grand crus were only about half a harvest though – 20hl/ha in the grand crus. For the Chablis and Petit Chablis I made about 70% of normal – the losses all because of the frost.”
Thierry on 2016:
“About 35% of a normal volume, with one episode of frost, but 2 episodes of hail – so it was very complicated. The grand crus actually gave a normal harvest, but some of our vines in Chichée weren’t even harvested – zero – that was the hail. But the grapes in both 2017 and 2016 had a lovely quality – I see a little more acidity in the 2017s – they are a little less tender than the 2016s. I was able to blend some of the grapes from Chichée with other areas to bring a nicer balance to the villages.”
DIAM across the range – DIAM3 for the ‘smaller’ wines, DIAM5 for the mid-range and DIAM10 for the grand cru.
The style here in 2016 is one that says wait a year or two – there is a certain classic austerity, not richness – but all the wines are sleek and will benefit from your patience. I enjoyed!
2016 Petit Chablis
The produce of multiple parcels.
A pretty core of fruit here. Hmm, nice level of richness for the label – the acidity fizzing along behind. Relatively easy, tasty wine…
40 hectares worth that needs 5-6 bottlings. A blend of left plus right bank vines plus old and young vines – but the close to 20 hectares in the direction of Chichée produced little to nothing.
A little extra width of fresh aroma – lots of mouth-filling volume. The acidity bubbling along at the side like in the Petit Chablis. More floral in the middle and a nice texture. This is quite good.
The premiers and gcs are bottled, only part of the Chablis is done for the moment:
2016 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
Normally from 3 small parcels – 2 ha worth in Chichée, more clay here that adds to the fruit and flowers, whereas Fourchaume is more limestone, ‘More alive, more dry, more reflective.’ Both frost and hail here in 2016.
A fresh nose but relatively tight in the width. Ooh similar volume but more intensity, energy and a transparent impression to mineral flavours. Very classic – will need a little time to settle in bottle, but this will be very good.
2016 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
From 4 hectares of vines.
A fine nose, fresh, precise, energetic. Extra sweetness but lovely fresh flavours that accompany – this has a great balance of energy and depth of flavour – just the merest suggestion of richness to the flavours but this is essentially a tasty, very fine and classic Fourchaume. Yum!
201 Chablis Bougros
1.2 hectares in 3 parcels in the middle of William Fevre’s vines, including some old vines.
A nice fresh nose – not a massive aromatic volume, but with a faint depth of riper white-fleshed fruit. More concentration, width and depth of flavour. Really a great leading edge of acidity and fresh mineral flavour, but with a silky texture and the required extra richness of the grand cru. This like all the others is in a style that says wait a year or two – but the basic material is excellent!