Tasted in Courgis with Alice de Moor, 18 January 2018.
Alice & Olivier De Moor
4 rue Jacques Ferrand
Tel: +33 3 86 41 47 94
Alice on 2017:
“It was an early year, some frost, mainly the frost was in the Chablis but also a little in the chardonnay in Chitry. We have some new 1er cru in 2017, but there was frost there – we are about minus 30% for volume in the year. We harvested quite early – 7 September – and they were good grapes. We’re happy with that.”
Alice on 2016:
“2016 was much worse. We were frosted the 26 April – in the Bourgogne there was nothing. Then we were hailed in the Bourgogne and in the Chablis – losing some 2/3rds of the Chablis – then we had a hard fight with the mildew – that part of the vintage was very wet. Harvesting began about the 20 September and we harvested only about 1.5 from our 8 hectares – and even that brought only about 5 hl/ha – I’ve about 5,000 bottles of Chablis in total – about 15% of a normal vintage. We practically didn’t want to taste the wines after a vintage like that. It’s fortunate that we had some grapes coming from the south to occupy us… Really I can only describe it as completely bizarre the hard work we had to do in the vines only to maintain them – for no grapes! It’s really hard to find the energy for that, we really had to tell ourselves that we were working for 2017, not 2016. The harvest was the work of 4 days with 4 harvesters – it was quite sad…”
Out of the misery comes an eclectic range of wines for 2016, and there are some fabulous wines – just not many bottles of them!
Viognier, rousanne blanc, clairette, grenache blanc, this with 1 year of elevage.
Bright some apricot notes and lots of perfume. Lots of volume in the mouth too. Really mouth-watering, exciting, energetic wine. This is really excellent – bravo!
2016 La Vendangeur Masque, Le Bourboulenc de Marie et Eric
An old vine parcel bought by the current owner because the previous owner was considering replanting.
A little deeper colour. A nose that’s much wider, fresher and a little more complex too – no overt perfume this time. Some gas here. A little more richness of flavour and texture – deeper, more confit, macerating fruit but a lift of extra complexity in the finish – good but I’d take the previous wine.
Two lots of grapes, though there wasn’t much this time from Auxerre. The second lot was some Mâcon blanc from near Tournus.
Deep, vibrant, hyper-attractive nose! Plenty of volume in the mouth – matched by the energy and complexity – pure, exciting and quite long – in fact super-long finishing for the label – great Bourgogne! Bravo!
2016 La Vendangeur Masque, Chablis
This the cuvee from bought grapes – from Courgis plus another domaine parcel which is here since 2016 and is undergoing conversion to bio…
A wide nose, some agrume complexity. Lots of volume here – this really mouth-filling – the acidity is forward but like biting into a fresh fruit, deliciously complex and long – so yum!
Still in tank. Planning end of February for bottling.
Really a beautifully vibrant nose – sweetness and reductive toastiness – super. Wide, translucent, pure, intense – like the last, I’m biting into a fresh fruit – really a fine and focused intensity of flavour. So mouth-watering – bravo – a great wine in 2016!