Tasted with Didier Picq in Chichée, 19 January 2018.
Domaine Gilbert Picq et Fils
3 route de Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 18 30
Didier on 2017:
“We had a good harvest, starting 6th September – but it was still a complicated year with many nights of frost – but we worked hard to keep things warm! At harvest we had clean grapes, practically no chaptalisation was required – and I was happy! It looks like it could be a very good vintage.”
Didier on 2016:
“2016 – just 10% of a normal harvest in our villages Chablis – but that’s usually 60% of my annual production – fortunately though, there was more left in the crus. Hail was our biggest problem. In 6 hectares I had no harvest – on average the domaine made about 20 hl/ha – 30% of a normal vintage – we’ve 30,000 bottles vs normally about 100,000.”
A little extra richness in the first two wines, but then all are beautifully classic – the combination of ‘classic’ and Picq’ is always something to savour!
All the first that we are tasting are bottled though not all the volume is done – and these since Sept/Oct – but the 2016s are not currently for sale, Didier has delayed their introduction due to the lack of wine to sell!
The first bottle he’s opened!
Plenty of colour. A tight nose, but offering subtle notes, flashes of citrus. Big in the mouth, a richness of flavour, ripe fruit, wide and involving. Lovely balance and really very, very tasty. The finish is long and seems to get tastier and tastier – yes!
2016 Chablis Vidécorse
Same soil as Vaucoupin, usually lots of millerandes. This from right bank and not so badly hit.
Again deep colour. Also a little tight, but finer and more complex notes are escaping from the glass. There’s also richness of flavour and texture, slowly this wine starts to take off – the mid-palate is simply a fabulous thing – layered growing, melting, complex, almost a salted caramel – ooh this is so brilliantly contemplative – maybe too much for some people – but I find it grandiose!
Bottled September. From vines of 60 years-old from 3 parcels – represents almost 1 hectare, more right bank.
More open, more depth and more mineral. More classically shaped – fresh, there’s more line and it’s more directly mouth-watering, melting flavour at the edges. More overtly mineral, mixed with a little citrus agrume. More classic, not more delicious. Beautiful finish.
Same soil as the first wine but with a small change in the orientation.
Gorgeous nose – mineral, pure, alive. The form is very similar to the last wine (I say this and Didier tells me that the vines are only 200m apart) but with more width of flavour and a little quicker delivery of complexity – the density of finishing flavour is more too – classic, great wine!
There is no 2016 Chablis Dessus la Carrière.
2016 Chablis 1er Vosgros
In tank, ready to bottle but won’t be done until March
A more reticent nose, mineral, accented with citrus, but really very modest. Starting slowly but the intensity slowly ramps up, the flavours of fine purity and width, beautiful in the finish – a little softer today to start – I can see why it’s not yet bottled – but there’s great material here. Yum!