Tasted with Isabelle Raveneau in Chablis, 11 January, 2018.
Domaine François Raveneau
9 rue de Chichée
Tel: +33 (0)3 86 42 17 46
Isabelle on 2017:
“2017 was frosted, but still different to the frost of 2016. In 2017 it was the bottom of the Valleys that were effected – the Spring-frost style. About one-third was affected, so less was lost than in 2016. We were in the first wave of harvesters but not in August. I see more acidity but also a little more ripeness of fruit. Fermentations went well and we’re starting elevage now.”
Isabelle on 2016:
“2016 really was a nightmare; frost, hail, drought, sun-burn – so in the end it was only half a harvest for us – that’s even smaller than our harvest in 2015 where we had the late hail. Some of the plots were okay and the flowering was okay. So it was really mixed up – some places with 15-50 hectolitres per hectare.”
In 2016 there’s no much of some cuvées, but only one is missing, and that’s Chapelots.
This tasting started very well but not outstanding – just the position of the first two wines in their respective elevage – then the fireworks started – great wine, followed by great wine. Really delivering the goods for 2016 – well done! And my favourite today? The Forêts!
2016 Petit Chablis
Third vintage for this wine – I tasted 14 but not 15. An area that frosts so was only 15 hl/ha.
Fine with nice depth and a more modest width of aroma. Hmm, this is a match for many Chablis as there is ripeness and roundness this year – pretty acidity and nothing aggressive – simply lovely.
Close to normal here with 45 hl/ha
Again good depth and fine silky top notes too, like the last a little tighter in the width. Ooh more direct, layered, melting flavour – really mouth-watering. Faintly saline – super – really classic with an ounce of extra depth of texture.
Compared to those that follow the previous two wines were much less open:
2016 Chablis 1er Montmains
Not lots of this after the frost.
This is more open, higher-tones and beautifully transparent too – a touch of attractive reduction. Wide, really very wide, slightly reductive minerality, silken, wine. Not overtly energetic but more than enough. Nicely balanced richness and minerality.
Practically a normal yield at harvest
Ooh the first really vibrant nose – yes! Extra bright and mineral – wow for the energy and intricacy. Super complex – really my style – faintly saline accented. Great wine!
A tighter, more reduced nose, slowly opening with some agrumes. Ooh – wide, silky, more wide and more silky. Just a hint of richness but such a lovely line of fine acidity. Open in the finish – long…….
A very small yield – 15-20 hl/ha
Nice… a depth of modestly vibrant minerality – lovely. Lots of mouth-filling fresh volume – finer than the Vaillons, more elegant, and quite simply beautiful…
A good yield here in 2016.
A much more modest volume of aroma – elegant and complex though. Silky, very mineral a suggestion of richness – wide and insinuating, haunting finish. Love….
A big nose, pure, complex, hyper-attractive. Big in the mouth too with extra intensity – there’s no padding here and you will have to hold on for the ride – but what a ride. Lots of rocky limestone in the finish…
‘From the top of the plot, more sunny, more expressive and classic each year.’
Wider, more floral more green citrus. Like the Blanchots, this is intense and energetic, both of these wines need time. So much width of finishing flavour also in the finish – great wine!
The dirtiest looking barrels – so it must be Les Clos!
The most intense and vibrant nose. Extra wide but with more density of flavour too – energetic but not like the the last two – it’s a very different style, but pure and intense. Great wine again!