Tasted in Chablis with Cyril Testut, 09 January 2018.
38, rue des Moulins
Tel: +33 3 86 41 45 00
Cyril on 2017:
“The third hard vintage in a row was 2017 – but it’s an interesting vintage – we have a concentration in the wines. The grapes were lovely, I’ve hardly seen better but they were a big surprise when they went into the press because there was a lot of skin and pulp but not lots of juice. That said the balance is really super. Quite classic I think. Though half a harvest.”
Cyril on 2016:
“In 2016 we were not touched in the premier and grand cru vines, but our Chablis suffered both frost and hail. Here about 50% was lost – but we made just a little more than in 2017 – really it was hardest from the perspective of mentality going forward. It was a vintage that started a little hard but it’s opened out and become nicely classic. There was no porriture at all.”
A mix of DIAM and natural cork are used here – Chablis and Vaillons using DIAM5.
Not always the most energetic wines, but with beautiful minerality, clarity, delicious flavour and ease of drinking, there’s no austerity here.
2016 Chablis Rive Droite
Almost an acacia note on the nose – quite attractive. Ooh this has a super intensity – fine texture. This is really excellent line and no austerity. Super.
2016 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Right bank vines of about 50 years of age. The last bottling at the end of 2017.
Lovely width of top notes, attractive ripe yellow citrus below. A little more line before the wine melts beautifully over the palate. Layers of delicious flavour with the merest accent of salinity. A wine to bathe in – super.
2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Some of the oldest vines, planted in the late 50s/early 60s. From Beugnons.
A more vibrant and mineral nose – highly attractive. There are lots of great Vaillons in 2016 – and here is another – beautifully fine agrume fruit, delicious line. Long finishing. There are more energetic wines, but not by much – simply excellent. A great mineral finish too.
2016 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Also bottled 3 weeks ago.
This has a similar mineral vibration to the last wine, perhaps with a hint of extra sweetness. Extra mineral – wow, citrus and saline at the edges. Fine concentration – never too much. Beautiful concentration. Excellent again and more overtly mineral finishing – again without any austerity…
0.20 ha of 80 year-old vines, the same age as Beugnons. Only replaced with massale selections.
Fine, more complex, more citrus fruit, almost a suggestion of aniseed. Ooh – wide and fabulous – here is a little of the extra energy that I’m looking for. This is superb, melting beautiful citrus fruit – bravo! I could drink this every day.
2016 Château de Grenouilles
0.32 hectares – the high part with the other producers – Chablisienne has all the lower part. Father planted in the 60s. Now in bottle.
A much deeper nose, mineral, perhaps a little reduction adding to the depth. A little more volume and intensity. Plenty of energy and concentration. Intense a little saline in the middle. Here just a little rigour that says wait a year or two – but a beautiful wine – particularly in the wide, complex and mineral-laden finish. Super wine!