Tasted in Chablis with Thibaud Roch, 16 January 2018.
Domaine du Chardonnay
Moulin du Pâtis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 48 03
Thibaud on 2017:
“2017 was an early harvest we expected to be starting at the end August but in the end we waited a little into September. A little more sugar vs the 2016s and thicker skins too – but with less juice – so possibly the wines will be a little atypical. The volumes in Petit Chablis and Chablis were quite good but that of the 1ers was low.”
Thibaud on 2016:
“2016 – we had frost hail, rain, probably we were 45% down in terms of volume – so about half a harvest. From 14 July the weather changed and it was very easy. The wines seem a good blend of 2014 and 2015 because there’s minerality but good fruit too. We began harvesting 26 September and kept going until the 06 October. Because of the low quantity we have tried to keep customers on the 2015s for as long as possible, so most of the 2016 1ers are not yet commercialized.”
Very good wines with just a little touch of austere rigour – not too many domaines are like this in 2016 – but that just means that you should wait 1-2 years before drinking these classically-styled wines – both you and the wines will benefit – there’s some great stuff here.
2016 Petit Chablis
Vines in Beines, Prehy and the plateau behind the Grand Crus – but mainly 9 ha in Beines on quite stony soil. All stainless steel elevage.
Interesting – there’s the standard mix of freshness and fruit, but here a hint of pepper too. Wide, fresh and very tasty wine – lots of freshness and an interesting complexity. Long and tasty. More than very good!
This vintage, mainly from 17 ha around Chichée. All tank elevage again.
Deep, with a fine minerality. Lots of volume, mouth-watering, quite an intensity of flavour. This has a modest rigour so I’d wait 6-12 months for drinking – but there’s lots of concentration here.
2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Epinottes and Roncières – 1.21 hectares.
Really a nice depth of aroma. Mouth-filling, lots of mouth-watering freshness – there’s an infectious energy about this wine. It’s direct and lacks a bit of padding but the character is super – yum!
2016 Chablis 1er Montmains
3 sectors, but all Montmains, roughly 3.9 hectares.
Here’s an attractive width of agrumed minerality! Big, bright, growing acid-led intensity, really mouth-watering. The length differentiates this wine – it’s a great finish.
2016 Chablis 1er Vosgros
2 parcels, one steep and south-facing, plus another small parcel in Vaugiraut. Vine ages between 5-30. Like a Roman amphitheatre.
A pretty nose of fine, pure complexity. More weight a little more richness of flavour, concentrated wine and mineral too – this is super, accented with salinity. With excellent finishing detail – super!
2016 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
3 ‘tiny’ parcels all next to each other. Small parcels so one of the smallest cuvées here. 20% oak elevage, none new, to add just a touch of elegance.
Wide, pure, a little complexity of minerality and salinity. Big in the mouth – really lots of volume, melting, a little rigour here but depth of flavour – wait a little for these wines – there will be lots to discover.
2016 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnère
From the real MdT across from the grand crus – 2.13 ha. This was the area that had the majority of the sun-burn in 2016.
A tighter nose but fine and with small flashes of complexity. Concentrated – some richness of flavour here – great balance. Lots of mineral flavour, a little agrume in the mid-palate – really a weight of finishing flavour too. Super. Persistent and tasty wine.