Tasted in Milly with Fabien Dauvissat, 08 January 2018.
Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père & Fils
11 et 13 rue de Léchet
89800 Milly
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 23
www.chablis-dauvissat.com
Fabien on 2017:
“2017 brought less wine than in 2016 – we did half a harvest in 2016 – 2017 was one-third with an average of 20 hl/ha. Lots of places I thought looked okay after then frost – the buds were green, but in the centre it wasn’t correct so neither was the yield. I’m surprised about the quality – the malos are done and I expected a certain richness because there was the start of some porriture at harvest time, so for once I didn’t wait! I think if I’d waited 3 or 4 days longer there might have been a problem.”
Fabien on 2016:
“2016 was more complicated despite more wine than in 2017 – I lost about 25% to frost and another 25% to hail, but the wines are much more typical of Chablis after the 2015s. 5-6 hl/ha harvested in Maligny due to hail. Beines had a little frost but it wasn’t bad, Côte de Lechets only 10 hl on 2 ha due to frost. Vaillons 16 hl due to hail and Montmains is never high due to older vines. Then, just before the harvest, there was porriture in Chapelle de Vaupelteigne, but fortunately it didn’t really catch hold like in 2013. I was a little worried by it so took a standard yeast as I didn’t want something that reminded me of 2013 – in 2017 back to wild yeast.
“We are not bio but we do the maximum. I’m not really planning for certification, we work the soil on all 22 hectares of the domaine, but in a vintage like 2016 I reserved the right to make a particular treatment. There are some plots in full Biodynamie as tests…”
The wines…
The Petit Chablis and Chablis are in bottle since the harvest, it will be about March for the 1ers. The wines are not currently fining – they usually are when I visit.
Just one of my top ten addresses in 2016 – in my continuum of 2009+ to classic, these wines are very close to classic, not to mention pure, mineral and quite agrume in style too.
A small parcel of 0.16 ha, making a little over 1,000 bottles from the plateau of Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – the domaine’s smallest cuvée but a decent yield for 2016 with a little over 40 hl/ha.
A nice width of faintly saline but modestly open aromas. Ohh – that’s the most direct, silky delicious Petit Chablis I’ve tasted – easy – Bravo!
2016 Chablis
The classic cuvée here. ‘From the most interesting parcels. The parcels found less interesting are sold to the négoce, but each year it’s a little different so I vinify all parcels then decide.’
Direct, a little reduction, lots of depth of aroma because of that. Just a little reduction on the palate too – but so juicy, nicely mineral, melting, mouth-watering. This is really excellent. Super!
2016 Chablis Cuvée Claire
The cuvée for Fabien’s daughter – a parcel selection with elevage in demi-muids, none new. ‘It’s the clientelle that demand some oak.’ Both fermentations in tank followed by 6 months in demi-muids.
A little accent of oak but a freshness and more open nose. A little extra sweetness a little less direct but wide and equally energetic as that last. The finish has a little oak – more spicy than vanilla. This needs 12 months patience but will be super as there’s a beautiful and wide pure mineral impression in the finish.
The following all tasted from tank:
2016 Chablis Heritage
Looking for more length and minerality from this, didn’t really want to call it VV, But almost every year, blind tasting, it’s the 4 oldest parcels of the domaine – a 1950-60 planting above Chapelle de Vaupelteigne.
Open, fresh, faint and attractive reduction. Lots of volume, lots of concentrated flavour mouth-filling flavour, a weight of flavour in the mid-palate but always delivered with grace – excellent!
2 ha, 1.5 really in the centre. Some court-noué so normally low yielding – ‘I’m always thinking about replanting!’
Such a beautiful and precise nose – not full power but a beauty. Wide, beautiful in the mouth, very classic despite an edge of ripeness to the fruit – simply a very beautiful wine – bravo!
2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons
One 0.83 hectare parcel in Chatains.
Like the last but with a more overt fruit impression – fresh fruit. A more agrume, a little less sweet, lots of complexity – there is more here though a little hint of austerity compared to the elegance of the last. Just a super wine again.
One 0.75 hecatre parcel in real Montmains. ‘Usually our last parcel to be harvested.’
Ooh – what a super width of vibrating minerality – yes! Cool fruited, complex, mineral, attractively reduced. Beautiful classic, pure wine – bravo!
2016 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Narrower, deeper but not overtly reduced – very attractive nose. Really fills the mouth, mouth-wateringly intense, pure, grapefruit style fruit. To wait for but another brilliantly pure, attractive, classic Chablis – without austerity!