Tasted in Tonnerre with Baudoin Millet, 12 January 2017.
Ferme de Marcault
Route de Viviers
Tel: +33 3 86 75 92 56
Baudoin on 2017:
“2017 was better from human, finance and commercial perspectives. We were frosted a little in Viviers, though clearly not much compared to some places. The balance and cleanliness of the grapes was super. In the end we made 20% less than normal in 2017 – that’s three times more than in 2016!”
Baudoin on 2016:
2016 was a horror. We have only 1/3 of a normal crop. Here was one of the epicenters of frost – and then we had the second wave of hail. 9 from 14 hectares was lost. At least, vs some of our neighbours we were spared much of the mildew – probably as we had so few grapes! But there’s vivacity and tension in the wines when compared to 2015 which has more weight and sunshine. I find the 2016s have more typicité.
A nice range of wine at this address, though not the same floral character as in previous vintages. Serious wines though that will benefit from a little patience from the drinker.
2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay
We started with this Bourgogne blanc in 2016 because there was so little wine. I wanted to try to avoid losing too many clients so looked for something similar. This is a blend of Tonnerre and Mâcon, looking for something to reflect almost a petit chablis in style. I liked it so much I’m making it again in 2017: A single fermentation, not separate ferments.
Fresh and open, a hint floral. Lots of density, a hint of local salinity with a weight of fruit at the core. Long with some density and even a hint of minerality – wait a little for some austerity to fade, but there’s lots of material here.
2016 Petit Chablis
This wine sees elevage for the same length of time as the 1er cru. But 15 hl/ha is a catastrophe for us.
A nicer more direct nose. Direct in the mouth too – more airy, similarly saline, super finishing intensity too. Excellent PC.
2016 Petit Chablis La Perle
A later bottling with longer time on the lees. A quality clone that delivers a lower yield – – normally more round.
A similar nose yet more open too. A little more muscle, mineral but with some sweetness, long. None of the austerity of the last wine – today I would take this. Lovely wine
Also about 15 hl/ha
A deeper, steely, mineral nose. Muscular, concentrated, a little more sweetness, lots of up-front impact. From the mid-palate onwards this is lovely wine, it needs the first part to be more relaxed so wait at least a year…
0.4 hectares of 60 year-old vines normally with a smaller yield and of course a lot was lost to the frost. Elevage like the perle – a little longer…
Hmm – very attractive. Floral and herbed together. Much more volume, dimension and depth of flavour. Super, modestly cushioned texture. This is top. Wide, complex and delicious.
2016 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
1 hectare of vines.
More open again – pretty aromas hard to put my finger on specifics. Wider still, less overtly concentrated but with more energy and more complexity – delicious in the mid and finishing flavour. Persistent and mineral finish with no austerity – super.
First vintage bought some Preuses, bottled mid Dec – first time tasted also for Baudoin. This only saw tank elevage. “I like tension and direction, for that reason im drawn more to tank elevage.” Bought as grapes.
2016 Chablis Les Preuses
Ooh, not the widest, but deep, vibrant minerality. Ooh, nicely fills the mouth, some softness but really a mouth-watering complexity here – more richness to the texture but with perfectly balancing slow-moving complexity. Assured wine, delicious wine, if modest overall energy – tenacious in the finish. A contemplative wine despite the balance.
2016 Baudoin Millet, Chablis Vaudesir
This label is for the bought grapes. 50% oak elevage.
Wide and with decent depth of aroma, framed with some oak but mot too overt. Big in the mouth, complex, nice freshness and slowly changing complexity. Like the nose there’s oak here but it’s very modest – wait 18 months and you may no-longer notice. Tasty wine.