Tasted in Chablis with Patrick Puize and Sylvie Quittot, 29 January 2018.
Patrick Piuze
25 rue Emile Zola
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 18 85 73
www.patrickpiuze.com
Patrick on 2017:
“I’ve had to turn my back on some appellations as it’s become too complicated to make money as a négoce.”
Patrick on 2016:
“A gros merde! The quality is actually not bad, but there was the frost, the corridor of the hail, mildew and botrytis – oïdium was just about the only thing I didn’t see – I was quite surprised by the extent of sunburn on the grapes too! I had to find some new contracts – for instance a great Bourgogne from Tonnerre. The grand crus were not bad as they are largely protected, but mildew caused a lot of problems. Relatively low alcohols and acidities so I harvested early as I was afraid that rot might come – well, we’d had everything else! – but finally they taste good. Of-course I can’t escape that there is 40-45% less wine; prices will have to go up for me, just look at the bulk contracts for 2016 villages Chablis – they went up nearly 40%!
“But my vintage glass is half full!”
The wines…
Patrick has put together a strong set of 2016s – some cuvées are missing and there are new ones in their place – but this remains a strong address.
2016 Bourgone Tonnerre Les Boutots
Kimmerigian soil, and hillside exposure.
A little sweetness. Nice width, intense, wide open, fresh wine. A little short in the finish but a delicious wine of fine definition.
2016 Chablis Terrior de Chapelle
Two parcels in Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – one on the plateau, the other near the cemetery. Planted in 1974 and the 1990s
A rounder, if tighter, sweet nose. More supple, good width, much longer flavour. Yum!
2016 Chablis Terroirs de Chablis
From the north-facing slopes of Forets.
Wider and more open sweetness. More volume, more intensity too. Ingraining, delicious. More overtly classic. Super Chablis!
2016 Chablis Terroirs de Courgis
A deeper nose with a little herb and reduction. More mineral, a softer texture, some salinity, some richness. Classic and fine.
Vines with similar exposure the grand crus – on a steep hill. Half barrel, half tank elevage.
Needs a little coaxing, but the sweet fruit aroma and freshness is very attractive. Ooh much fresher and layers of fresh flavour too – I love this.
Under the Montée de Tonnerre
Fresh width, almost a suggestion of mint. Layers, width of flavour, complex flavour, and really delicious finishing too – yes!
2016 Chablis 1er Roncières
From Vaillons – the second year for this wine.
A little floral addition to the aroma. Wide, fresh, intense, a hint of wood (all 1ers have wood). Vibrant wine with fine depth and intensity.
2016 Chablis 1er Les Forets
A much fresher complexity. Very silky, with a concentration that melts over the palate – just absolutely delicious wine!
There is none in 17 as all was frosted.
Pretty, floral, fresh and inviting. More direct, still a hint of richness of texture. Mineral complexity in the long finish – bravo!
2016 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnèrre
Perfumed – really an invitation to drink. More direct in the mouth, with a cushioned intensity. Saline complexity too – gorgeous wine!
2016 Chablis Bougros
‘I only pick the grapes here in the morning – it helps freshness we think.’
Wide, floral again. Ooh, more volume, more mouth-watering flavour hanging from the structure of the wine. Tension. Mouth-watering, with vibrations of flavour. I love this!
2016 Chablis Blanchots
Not the steepest part, deeper soil here, ‘but the grower is good.’
A weight and width of aroma. Big in the mouth, lots of richness. Very simple: it’s a tasty grand cru!
2016 Chablis Les Clos
A narrower nose, some herb. Silky, structured, layered, a more overt minerality. Open ended in the flavour. Excellent.
A big perfumed nose, faintly with apple perhaps. More volume, extra flavour, complex, saline and sweet together. Great wine!
2011 Chablis Les Preuses
Starts a hint vegetal but gets bigger and bigger and ever-more attractive. Ooh, that’s silky, a hint of asparagus on the palate, a hint of caramel richness. I’d drink these up – enjoyably!