Tasted in Ligny-le-Châtel with Xavier and Jérôme Garnier, 10 January 2018.
Domaine Garnier & Fils
Chemin de Méré
89144 Ligny-le-Châtel
Tel: + 33 3 86 47 42 12
www.chablis-garnier.com
Xavier on 2017:
“14-15 hl/ha in 2016 but 32 hl/ha in 2017. If 2016 was more about the hail, 2017 more about the frost. In Lignorelles were our best looking vines – in Petit Chablis. They weren’t frosted or hailed – but they got hit by the mildew! Most of this Petit Chablis was sold in must, because as there was so little who would we supply? – In the end we decided it was easier to sell to no-one, so it went in bulk.”
Jérôme on 2016:
“More in the Chablis, less in the petit Chablis. In 2016 we completely lost 11 hectares in the hail. We also lost about 3.5 hectares (60-70%) to the frost and because of this there’s no Petit Chablis. So in the end we only have about 25% of a ‘normal’ harvest. We are really happy with the 2016s – you could say that we were a little morose after the harvest – we thought everything bad as we had not much wine – but it was clear after the fermentations that we had some thing not bad at all!”
The wines…
Majority of 2016s are still in elevage so I tasted samples from barrel – just 2 wines are bottled.
Such a great range of wines here – really one of my top 10 domaines of the vintage – and considering that the most part of the cuvées are négoce, what they have done puts them very high in that list of 10!
Only 315 hectolitres of wine from 19 hectares of vines! Bottled in mid-October.
An attractive nose, a little vibration of interest a little green-fruited. Ooh. Direct, lithe, beautiful line – this is directly great wine – just a touch of austerity in the middle but plenty of salinity and really great finishing flavours – bravo! This year the only domaine wine in 2016
Here the wines from purchased a mix of must and grapes, only the Beauroy is bottled:
2nd vintage. bottled – mid November.
A little tighter but with a strong core of ripe but fresh fruit. Like the last – what a delicious line of fresh fruit – with concentration too – a little lime style fruit in the middle but wow – great stuff!
The 3rd vintage for this wine, This and the following wines are in tank – before this was in foudre. 100% grape purchases
More width and more open there’s a little oak padding the width but this attractive and fresh. Some gas, but really again a wiry, fresh and absolutely delicious energy – super-classic delicious wine – despite a touch of oak in the mix. Bottling of this super wine will be end Feb, start of March.
The following are sulfured and a little mixed up and cloudy – let’s see:
2016 Chablis 1er Montmains
From Butteaux, the high part, all bought in must. All 600l barrel elevage.
A little grapefruit and a little oak in the depth too. Really mouth-filling, tons of freshness, layers of flavour – this is really in the same style as the last wines – which means really great – super wine!
Also bought just in must.
A more complex width of fine aroma here – and I note no extra oak notes. Again a mouthful of fresh wine – simply wow – I love what’s being put in my glass here… Just a touch less of sweetness – but it’s not needed – so delicious!
2016 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
This comes in grapes. All these so far have been in 600 litre barrels.
Here the nose is a hint troubled but there’s plenty of freshness. Lots of fine width and fresh complexity – less together than the previous wines but tailored the same – super! All with fine finishes…
It will be bottled at the start of July. Also bought as grapes.
Lots more aromatic complexity here – a little floral too – really attractive. A little more richness of texture but the acidity cuts through it like a knife – this is really great stuff – concentration and intensity yet always with a fresh airy style – great! Extra in the finish too…
2016 Chablis Les Clos
This in must – same vigneron since 2004 – the same as the Mont de Milieu. This the only wine in 228 litre barrels – three of them – this a blend of the 3 barrels.
Lots of aromatic volume and freshness – a little oak here too. The first of this wines that isn’t so open and energetic – lots of complexity, lots of tasty flavour and really good acidity too – but compared to the others I find it almost closed. Tasty wine though…
And For the fun…
IGP Loire Valley Loire Valley wines – Coteaux de Tannay
6 hectares in lyre training – a single hillside – 20 years planted. 2016 was the first vinification here – others worked the vines in 2016 but in 2017 this domaine did the work in the vines. Only 3k vines per hectare. “Looking for something for cavistes to sell for less than €10.”
2016 Xavier et Jerome Garnier, l’Instant Tannay Pinot Noir
All destemmed
The nose is a quite oaky. In the mouth this feels quite nice – its fresh, direct, there’s a touch of tannin and the fruit has a ripe feel – but the flavour is principally oaky for me – hard to find the pinot.
All gamay.
A pretty nose – fresh, elegant and attractive. A little richness of texture with plenty of sweetness to it – but this has a drive and intensity that is really great – a fabulous line of flavour – I love it! Bravo!
2016 Xavier et Jerome Garnier, l’Instant Tannay Melon de Bourgogne
Same grape that is used to make Muscadet
A pretty nose, fresh and saline. A little extra richness but freshness too, a really nice structure, wide and tasty wine – this is really lovely.
2016 Xavier et Jerome Garnier, l’Instant Tannay Chardonnay
Fresh, fine, deep but tight in the middle. Plenty of richness here – after the fabulous Chablis this is sub-interesting, though there’s a good width of implied minerality but it needs a bit more freshness to cut through it. That said it’s half the price of the village chardonnay here.
Interesting – I liked the Melon and the rosé, and I think that the pinot has some potential too!