Tasted with Julien Barraud in Hurigny, 12 November 2023.

Domaine Barraud
Le Nambre
71960 Vergisson
Tel: +33 3 85 35 84 25
www.domainebarraud.com
Domaine’s Instagram
More reports with Domaine Barraud

Julien on 2023 & 2022:
“2023 – yes, it did us some good! We had some losses in 2022 – 40-50 hl/ha – so 2022 was more of a ‘correct’ volume – where we lost was due to the dryness but only about 10% down in juice – and the grapes were very clean. There’s a bit less acidity vs 2021. 2023 was bigger quantities – so we kept the first run juice and eliminated the press juice – not sold – eliminated! The malos are done – there wasn’t much malic acid, the acidities are like in 2022.”

The wines…

I always have much love for the wines from here – they seemingly tread with ease that borderline between excellent and great – and now with organic labels to make you feel even better about your purchase(s) 🙂

First year with AB on the label for the whole range. All the Mâcons are now sealed with Nomacork:

2022 Mâcon-Chaintre Les Pierres Polies
Bottled in July.
A narrow but finely focused fresh citrus. Broad and quite complex – it’s a very floral complexity – and it’s delicious. Easy, not large scale but a joyful glass of wine.

2022 Mâcon-Vergisson La Roche
Limestone soils at nearly 400 meters
A little more depth of aroma – more yellow and riper citrus – perhaps a hint of barrel too. Larger scale, a texturally more impressive, more sinuous wine. Slowly fading. Yum!

2022 St.Véran En Chrèches
This all at the bottom of the hill – the same limestone though with more clays
A more saline and airy nose. A hint of reduction in the depth but a wine that grows to fill all available spaces – concentrated, ripe, fruit. Fine texture with a shimmering vibration of finishing energy.

2022 St.Véran Les Pommards
In an old quarry. Not quite in bottle for 1 week – like all those that follow. Bottom of the Roc de Solutre between that and Vergisson – 60-year-old vines – ‘north-facing but not cold’
Silky, complex, classy nose. Hmm – a little oak padding but also a clarity of flavour here – the leading-edge is slightly saline – so super complexity.

2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Châtaignières Vieilles-Vignes
In the village of Fuissé – 60-year-old vines – about 350m altitude les Chailles in the soil surface below is argilo-calcaire
Hmm – more obviously floral. Super shape in the mouth – really mouth-filling – with both clarity and energy – not to mention minerality – to all these flavours. A finish that really opens out. Slightly austere – strict – in the best way – wait a little for this but the finish is very impressively long too!

2022 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er En France
In Vergisson but really a very clay-based soil with some blue clay and plenty of sand too. About 4 producers of this. The name dating from the 100-years-war – the Burgundians were part of the English at this time – this was France! Because of that the Chateau of Vergission is also called the Château de France!
An extra depth to this width of aroma, faintly floral too. Incisive, direct and mineral. The mouth-watering flavour bring extra width and a small measure of extra comfort – but I love this strict and mineral presentation – ‘Yes mineral but the soil has some quartz though not much limestone!’

2022 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Les Crays
South-facing below the rock of Vergission – some iron oxide in this soil.
An attractive but slightly diffuse nose – like many of these in bottle just a few days. Larger scale – less obviously direct – but again mineral, concentrated and with a super texture. Classy wine that you should wait for – like the last – 2-3 years would be a great starting point!