Tasted with Clément Robinet, in Fuissé, 30 October 2023.
Domaine Ferret
61, rue du Plan
719 60 Fuissé
Tel: +33 3 85 35 61 56
www.domaine-ferret.com
More reports with Domaine Ferret
My first visit after the departure of Audrey Braccini. Clément Robinet is the replacement for Audrey, he was previously Chef de Culture with Carolyn Gon in Milly-Lamartime, chez Lafon. He has been at the domaine since July.
Clément on 2023:
“23 – It was a good start for me. Delicate to choose the best timing to harvest – we harvested mornings but it was too hot in the afternoons – in 5 days we did all the ‘parcellaire’ the rest took a few days though but the later harvested higher vines were still in really good shape – most 12.5-13° with a highest of around 13.4° – really a vintage where the yield will be visible – small volume harvests will be much more concentrated. There’s a lot more malic in 2023 than there was in 2022 – the fermentation is done but the malo is going slowly!”
Clément on 2022:
“Not an exceptional year for volume but after 2021 we are of-course happy – we had around 45 hl/ha. Again it was essential to pick on the right day – a lot was ready at the same time in 22 – so we had to go fast and use the refrigerated containers – we needed those in 2023 too. Of course we had riper grapes, so sunnier wines than 2021 and they are maybe a model for the vintages to come. We started harvesting 23 August – a record here – 2-3 September to finish – I month earlier than in 2021. As for the wines, I think for drinking before the 2021s – maybe the 21s are a bit austere vs these 22s. I think that the 22s will open early and drink well while waiting for the 21s.”
The wines…
Another great result chez Ferret – their typical oak signature is present but is usually a memory after 2-3 years – I may attack some of my 2020s next years!
These 2022s will see January to March bottlings – the 1ers in March. All sealed with DIAM since 2012:
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé
Directly a fine zesty agrume nose – a lovely invitation. Open, nice clarity and a certain width of fluid flavour. Bubblingly mouth-watering without being overly effusive. The finish with great citrus bitterness – that’s lovely. I think this is super…
All these ‘parcel’ wines see 25% new oak…
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos de Jeanne Tête de Cru
Part of 1er Perrières, a clos of vines next to the old domaine – but they keep it separate from their Perrières bottling – ‘as the wines are so different.’
Similar zesty agrume skins, this time showing a bit more barrel elements. More direct and mineral – fine texture – again the oak is evident at this stage – but I find this hardly noticeable after 2 years – very persistent in this finish.
The first vineyard that was bought in Pouilly by Louis Jadot in 2005. Originally vinified at the Chateau des Jacques. 2 ha. Not yet a 1er cru – it will be reassessed in 15 years – apparently, there wasn’t sufficient historical info. A small extra parcel in this now.
More open, more floral – still with very fine citrus – but more the flesh than the skin this time. Beautiful in the mouth – fluid – mineral, delicately citrussy. Love !
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Perrières 1er CruTête de Cru
From La Baudotte – the difference to the Clos is that the vines are turning more south-east
Yet again a very different aromatic – the differences are easily visible this vintage – a little narrower but so perfumed and elegant – a beauty! Hmm – Beautifully expressive, elegant and complex – plenty of juicy complexity without overt, intrusive, energy. The finish while still of discreet intensity, is wide and long. That’s a beautiful wine!
A mix of soil types in the vines here – plain east facing 0.8 ha. ‘This was the ultimate wine for Madame Ferret – they could sell the rest of the domaine but not the Ménétrières’
There is more weight here and also a beautiful – part floral – perfume – but not all together yet. Hmm, I love this melting width of flavour – quite stony – but then really zesty – the zest really just announces itself in the finish – but what a finish! It’s not bringing as much impact as some but it’s easily the longest yet – bravo – it just needs a little time!.
From Vers Pouilly Pouilly – Les Res 1er cru showing on the back label.
Back to the extra emphasis on the florals in this perfume. A wine to contemplate – seamless, fine silk for texture, mouth-filling but not aggressively energetic. Mineral but with a mm or two of cushioning. The middle and finishing flavours expanding to fill the available space and simply holding – how long do you have? It’s an understated wine – wow seems too obtuse a description but wow!