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jadot 1993 beaune 1er boucherottes

DSC04785Ah, that marathon. I’m (semi) ashamed to say I didn’t take part. I waited at the start line, in the pouring rain with even worse weather forecast to come. The hilltops were lost in the cloud and I was supposed to run up to 2,739 metres. It didn’t seem worth it, wet, can’t see and slippy rocks. Next year perhaps – or maybe the easy and flat, by comparison, Beaune half-marathon in November…

Anyway, a little something to warm me up:

1993 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
The colour is showing a little browning. The first note seems a bit corky, but it fades into something more leafy that’s backed by acid cherry/redcurrants – it just keeps getting better and better in the glass. In the mouth, it’s fresh but perfectly balanced with a delicacy that has me purring – the dog might give me a funny look! Clean, fresh and with good length – there’s no single thing outstanding – okay, maybe the nose – but it’s the overall package that is so intensely captivating. Really super!
Rebuy – Yes

the ins and outs of being very silly…

The weather is vacillating. One moment picturesque, the next, very damp.

Tomorrow I should take-part in my first marathon – it just so happens it’s the ‘highest in Europe’ – a mere 2,739m at the 25km point. I suppose it’s all downhill from there! Oh well, shame about the weather forecast too…

a 2006 rossignol-trapet with a 1999 nicolas potel…

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2006 Rossignol-Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cherbaudes
Here the nose is fresh and clean – a mineral dimension too. In the mouth this is sleek and also rather mineral. It’s a direct wine, but one of fine energy and dimension with very understated tannin and super balance. Very athletic in shape…
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Nuits St.Georges
Quite deep coloured. A gorgeous nose of deeply pretty and fruit – you keep wanting to take another sniff. Much rounder and more textured in the mouth versus the Cherbaudes – balanced and with a faint undertow of tannin. Aromatically gorgeous, the flavours still seemingly quite young – but very approachable and enjoyable…
Rebuy – Yes

article: benjamin lewin talks premox with dom lafon…

Excellent article on Benjamin’s site: here.

a pair of 2012 grèves – white ones!

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Two short notes, just to remind myself what these tasted like on Saturday evening…

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Blanc
Round, comely aromas, reasonably fresh and very inviting. In the mouth this has a lovely balance and a faint richness. Good density and concentration. Tasty wine – don’t let it get too warm in the glass or becomes less fine. Very enjoyable wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2012 Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Blanc
A very different nose that’s a little fresher, more direct and more floral too. In the mouth it’s a similar story: It’s direct and fresh but with a lovely intensity. Less rich than the previous wine, but that’s no negative. Just a faint oaky vanilla component to the flavour – but it’s a baby. Lovely…
Rebuy – Yes

veraison – it seems that today is the day…

article…

Interesting on the Clos de Vougeot…

côtes de nuits yesterday…

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I simply love this line, arcade, procession, avenue of trees on the Quai Dumorey in Nuits St.Georges. I guess I’m lucky I don’t have such ‘cherry-picker’ equipment at home – otherwise I’d spend my life pruning and then lying back, thinking I’d missed a bit:

Just to show that even the most hideously expensive domaines don’t always get the quantity of spray just right – no-matter how green, bio, biodynamic, Demeter they may be! Madame B-L’s Richebourg:

Also, just to show that not everyone is suffering with yields! – Again in Richebourg:
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congratulations greg…

See, I told you months ago that it was a brilliant wine, now didn’t I ;-)

v et d berthaut, 1982 fixin…

1982
I visited Amélie Berthaut in Fixin today and tasted her very lovely 2013s. I mentioned that I’d some 92s from the domaine that I bought at auction and they tasted rather good. At the end of our tasting she disappeared into the cellar and came back with a tissue-wrapped bottle – “You did say 1982 didn’t you?” she inquired. “Oh well, I’ve got this now!” Wax topped, labelled and with only about 1cm of level-loss, this most perfect of provenance wines looked as good as any 30+ year-old wine could. We had a quick taste and Amélie wasn’t impressed – I said it would almost certainly improve with air, so she said “Take it with you and let me know…” Well, it seemed rude not to!

1982 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin
Opened ~18h15 – almost no colour on pouring, but it looks fine in the glass. The nose starts a little cheesy but it’s rounder and riper in the mouth than I expected. Driven back to the apartment and put in the fridge at about 19h15 without the cork. Removed at 22h00 and poured at 22h30: The wine’s still cold but the cheesiness of earlier is gone, to be replaced by slightly blurred red fruit and something more ‘brown!’ It’s not super-inviting, but still, no Epoisses! In the mouth it’s a lovely bright attack but the acidity has a slightly balsamic/metallic impression/flavour. Take a chance and swallow and there’s good intensity to the slightly sweet finish. Wait one more hour with the wine in the glass and the nose is a little bit cleaner and has more depth – the brown note is now almost brown sugar. In the mouth the acidity still has a sharp-ish edge but is clearly a little more drinkable – twist my arm, and I might even say tasty! This is a bottle that’s ‘hanging on,’ one that was almost certainly better 10 years ago, maybe 15 – but the next bottle may be gorgeous, who knows…
Rebuy – No Chance!

of memorable wines from slighted vintages…

I thought it was about time that I added my wines of the year – so far – so see the updated ‘A-List’ to the right of this page. I’ve noted that 93s are starting to become not just potentially brilliant, but downright brilliant, the 96s are becoming rather rewarding too. My enjoyment of 95s remains variable. Oh, and many of those critically slighted vintages (where was Pierre Antoine Rovani two weeks ago) offer supreme pleasure right now – in the right hands of-course! See exhibits 1993, 1998 and 2000…

Of-course there was no more space in the ‘widget-thing’ on right-hand side of this page, so the A-List of 2006 is gone to make space for 2014 – oh well – and what was once obviously the year ‘tab’ has shrunk to a hard-to-understand single digit. Oh well, again! Normally I don’t include ‘impossible to obtain’ wines in this list, but some are there to amplify the vintage point made above.

sdm
Three of the wines on this list are from the hailed-on, rained-on, dinner of the Elegance de Volnay, 2 weeks ago. I’d brought with me 93 Lafon Volnay Santenots de Milieu, only to later find that Dominique Lafon was sitting at my table – oops! – What happens if it’s not nice or corked, or, or… I briefly discussed with my invitee that I decided to serve it blind – just in-case it was rubbish! I found a (clean!) sock and poured! When I returned to the table (after touring the other tables with my quickly emptying bottle) Dominique shot me a wicked smile and said “I find it a bit simple!” Of-course my invitee had told him! I needn’t have worried, because we also ended up with 98 from bottle and magnum, the 2002, 2003, 2005 and 2007 of this wine passing our table – of-course, amongst many others. The 98 ‘Milieu’ was brilliant but I still had a slight preference for my 93 – until the 98 in magnum arrived – this was the best – a wine that, on the night, was only bettered (maybe) by the 2000 Roumier Bonnes-Mores – a wine of sleek muscle and brilliant dynamism – bottled brilliance! I also cannot go without mentioning our starting wine – the 2009 Meursault Clos de la Barre (mag), poured by Dominique himself. My tour of 2009 whites from barrel had placed this domaine in #1 spot. This wine was everything that I can remember – perfection…

OOPS! Sorry, I forgot. We’re not supposed to like 2009 whites ether, are we(?)!!!

Despite the weather, the wines engendered so many smiles and so much cameraderie…

back in old beaune town…

WP_20140614_003Back in old Beaune town – it seems like ages I was away – hmm – 8 days!

The road to Beaune was shared yesterday evening with the service vehicles of the Tour de France – at least as far as Besançon. They were all much faster than me – even with a dozen bicycles on their roofs – I suppose somebody has to observe the speed limits ;-)

Here in the Côte d’Or the first half of July has been wetter and cooler, virtually since the big storm of the 28th, but this morning we’re already in the mid 20°s at 09h00 and the forecast is for 30°+ by Thursday. It’s a beautiful blue sky too.

On this post-Bastille Day I think I’ll ease myself in with a coffee on the place Carnot and then formulate my plan of whom to annoy!

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