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faiveley et billaud-simon…

Here is the press-release for the new acquisition of Faiveley which hit Twitter yesterday evening.

I’m not going to complain about the concentration of domaines in fewer hands, because, let’s be honest, this has been happening for a long time. It is currently the way the industry operates. Faiveley make super wines and we can be 100% sure that these Chablis vines are in great hands.

More interesting are the machinations that go on behind the scenes.

This Chablis domaine has finally been sold after years of ‘difficulties’ between the families that owned the domaine. Let’s also be clear, Faiveley was clearly not the only suitor – indeed, another well-known Beaune name, thought they’d bought Billaud-Simon over two months ago – even before I tasted the wines for my Chablis Report. Unfortunately this particular Beaune-based producer shook hands with the part of the family that owned only 1/3 of the domaine. The part of the family that owned 2/3rds, meanwhile, were talking to Faiveley…

Such is the way the cookie crumbles – or put another way, that’s business! I hope all parties make good from this deal, even the disappointed ones!

a great crop in fixin – of cut flowers…

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A great crop – of cut flowers – in Fixin…

Except for the cars, a little Côte de Nuits action from this morning:

jadot 1993 beaune 1er boucherottes

DSC04785Ah, that marathon. I’m (semi) ashamed to say I didn’t take part. I waited at the start line, in the pouring rain with even worse weather forecast to come. The hilltops were lost in the cloud and I was supposed to run up to 2,739 metres. It didn’t seem worth it, wet, can’t see and slippy rocks. Next year perhaps – or maybe the easy and flat, by comparison, Beaune half-marathon in November…

Anyway, a little something to warm me up:

1993 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
The colour is showing a little browning. The first note seems a bit corky, but it fades into something more leafy that’s backed by acid cherry/redcurrants – it just keeps getting better and better in the glass. In the mouth, it’s fresh but perfectly balanced with a delicacy that has me purring – the dog might give me a funny look! Clean, fresh and with good length – there’s no single thing outstanding – okay, maybe the nose – but it’s the overall package that is so intensely captivating. Really super!
Rebuy – Yes

the ins and outs of being very silly…

The weather is vacillating. One moment picturesque, the next, very damp.

Tomorrow I should take-part in my first marathon – it just so happens it’s the ‘highest in Europe’ – a mere 2,739m at the 25km point. I suppose it’s all downhill from there! Oh well, shame about the weather forecast too…

a 2006 rossignol-trapet with a 1999 nicolas potel…

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2006 Rossignol-Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cherbaudes
Here the nose is fresh and clean – a mineral dimension too. In the mouth this is sleek and also rather mineral. It’s a direct wine, but one of fine energy and dimension with very understated tannin and super balance. Very athletic in shape…
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Nuits St.Georges
Quite deep coloured. A gorgeous nose of deeply pretty and fruit – you keep wanting to take another sniff. Much rounder and more textured in the mouth versus the Cherbaudes – balanced and with a faint undertow of tannin. Aromatically gorgeous, the flavours still seemingly quite young – but very approachable and enjoyable…
Rebuy – Yes

article: benjamin lewin talks premox with dom lafon…

Excellent article on Benjamin’s site: here.

a pair of 2012 grèves – white ones!

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Two short notes, just to remind myself what these tasted like on Saturday evening…

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Blanc
Round, comely aromas, reasonably fresh and very inviting. In the mouth this has a lovely balance and a faint richness. Good density and concentration. Tasty wine – don’t let it get too warm in the glass or becomes less fine. Very enjoyable wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2012 Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Blanc
A very different nose that’s a little fresher, more direct and more floral too. In the mouth it’s a similar story: It’s direct and fresh but with a lovely intensity. Less rich than the previous wine, but that’s no negative. Just a faint oaky vanilla component to the flavour – but it’s a baby. Lovely…
Rebuy – Yes

veraison – it seems that today is the day…

article…

Interesting on the Clos de Vougeot…

côtes de nuits yesterday…

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I simply love this line, arcade, procession, avenue of trees on the Quai Dumorey in Nuits St.Georges. I guess I’m lucky I don’t have such ‘cherry-picker’ equipment at home – otherwise I’d spend my life pruning and then lying back, thinking I’d missed a bit:

Just to show that even the most hideously expensive domaines don’t always get the quantity of spray just right – no-matter how green, bio, biodynamic, Demeter they may be! Madame B-L’s Richebourg:

Also, just to show that not everyone is suffering with yields! – Again in Richebourg:
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congratulations greg…

See, I told you months ago that it was a brilliant wine, now didn’t I ;-)

v et d berthaut, 1982 fixin…

1982
I visited Amélie Berthaut in Fixin today and tasted her very lovely 2013s. I mentioned that I’d some 92s from the domaine that I bought at auction and they tasted rather good. At the end of our tasting she disappeared into the cellar and came back with a tissue-wrapped bottle – “You did say 1982 didn’t you?” she inquired. “Oh well, I’ve got this now!” Wax topped, labelled and with only about 1cm of level-loss, this most perfect of provenance wines looked as good as any 30+ year-old wine could. We had a quick taste and Amélie wasn’t impressed – I said it would almost certainly improve with air, so she said “Take it with you and let me know…” Well, it seemed rude not to!

1982 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin
Opened ~18h15 – almost no colour on pouring, but it looks fine in the glass. The nose starts a little cheesy but it’s rounder and riper in the mouth than I expected. Driven back to the apartment and put in the fridge at about 19h15 without the cork. Removed at 22h00 and poured at 22h30: The wine’s still cold but the cheesiness of earlier is gone, to be replaced by slightly blurred red fruit and something more ‘brown!’ It’s not super-inviting, but still, no Epoisses! In the mouth it’s a lovely bright attack but the acidity has a slightly balsamic/metallic impression/flavour. Take a chance and swallow and there’s good intensity to the slightly sweet finish. Wait one more hour with the wine in the glass and the nose is a little bit cleaner and has more depth – the brown note is now almost brown sugar. In the mouth the acidity still has a sharp-ish edge but is clearly a little more drinkable – twist my arm, and I might even say tasty! This is a bottle that’s ‘hanging on,’ one that was almost certainly better 10 years ago, maybe 15 – but the next bottle may be gorgeous, who knows…
Rebuy – No Chance!

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