week 18, 2019 – weekend wines…

By billn on May 07, 2019 #degustation

Including a brace from Mr Croix this weekend…

2007 Camille Giroud, Chapelle-Chambertin
A wine that seems lightly coloured yet with time in the glass I’m sure it darkens. The nose has a lovely width of freshness, with clean white mushroom, clearly plenty of maturity here but it’s pure and attractive. Good volume in the mouth, modest, mid-weight, density – for a grand cru – but there’s a good intensity of flavour which lingers in a high-class way. The depth of flavour is subtle but fine. A wine that’s ready but with no rush to drink. Yum – indeed delicious – yet I think I preferred the recent 07 Cazetiers from here.
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price…

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonnière
I stupidly forgot that I’d left this in the freezer – but on the positive side I didn’t need a corkscrew – only a few hours for the damn thing to unfreeze! Interestingly I had performed my own cold-stabilisation – the wine afterwards full of tiny tartrate crystals!
A little pineapple showing on the nose. Rippling, mineral, fine acidity with, like the nose, that pineapple aspect to the fruit. Wide modestly saline but fine purity in the finish. Super, as always…
Rebuy – Yes

2009 des Croix, Corton Grèves
Only two years younger than the Chapelle, but such a younger colour, and more depth of colour too. Hmm, a more pure-fruited and bright nose – but with depth too. Mouth-filling, penetrating, great intensity and purity – this is such a baby. Wide, fresh, still a little bitters in the finish, but what a persistent finish! Still a bit too young today but with undeniable potential!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Alice & Olivier De Moor, Le Caravan
Clairette (Rhone), chardonnay (Ardeche), chardonnay and sauvignon gris from near Charolais, and pinot blanc and riesling from Alsace, and the aligoté from home.
The overt apple aroma seems to fading on this wine – but the fresh invitation remains. Bright, with lovely line and texture – narrower than the Chablis but a wine you can compare. Delicious, off-piste wine.
Rebuy – Yes

frostwatch, encore…

By billn on May 06, 2019 #vintage 2019

Yes I know it’s May!

The weekend was bizarre at home – jumping (if that’s the right word) from 20°C on Saturday afternoon to snow in the early evening – I really don’t remember the last time I saw snow in May. Saturday afternoon saw me packing insulation around all my hydrangea and agapanthus!

This morning, early underway to Burgundy, I had to contend with a thick frost on the car – as you can see below, it didn’t do pinot and chardonnay (my two vines at home) any favours – this was also, the first frost for a few weeks. The candles were highly active again in Chablis overnight and may be required tonight too. The forecast is for warmer nights from Wednesday.

First reports from the Côte de Beaune are positive, and as usual the Côte de Nuits was fine. Things were okay in the Beaujolais and Mâconnais too – the damage was done there early in April – but they were fighting the cold in Chablis again. I’ll keep you posted, of-course…

On the positive side, today I finished my tastings with a brilliant 1969 – from magnum!
 

offer of the day – 2016 château puligny…

By billn on May 06, 2019 #the market

VINS BLANCS*
Bourgogne Clos du Château 2016 75cl 29.50 (Swiss Francs)
St.Aubin 1er ‘En Remilly’ 2016 75cl 44.10
Chassagne-Montrachet 2016 75cl 57.60
Puligny-Montrachet 2016 75cl 62.10
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières 2016 75cl 103.50
Chevalier-Montrachet 2016 75cl 377.10

*A pre-listing offer from this Swiss merchant, after this ‘introductory offer’ the prices will be higher! I note that this is a late offer of the frost affected 2016 vintage – maybe there are mitigating circumstances for these prices and the 2017s will be cheaper 😉

I laugh at the price in my local supermarket for the latest vintage of Drouhin’s (admittedly excellent) villages Puligny, which has jumped to nearly 60 swiss francs, the 2016 was 52. So, as you can imagine, excellent as these wines are, they certainly stretch pricing credibility at the lower end – for the Chevalier, there is never enough and this will quickly sell out.

Note that these prices include Swiss purchase tax.

the march 2019 burgundy report

By billn on May 03, 2019 #reports#site updates

I really ought to publicise that the March report is online – so here you go!

  • With 8 new names from Chablis – so already bringing to you 70 domaines and their 2017s from that region this year – coverage like no other!
  • Visits to ‘older’ names to catch-up on their 2017s…
  • 100 wines from 2017 tasted blind – from Irancy and Beaujolais Blanc – I’m thinking of your bank balance here. Particularly the Beaujolais was interesting, because I generally find only about 1 in 10 wines that I would open with relish – here you will find 6 great wines – from over 60 tasted!
  • Screw-cap versus cork – comparing the seals back to 2004 with one winemaker – intriguing, if unsurprising results!

Online for subscribers here. Note that for my coverage of the 2017 vintage, that’s already 2,890 wines from 235 producers. This month I’ve even started tasting a few domaines’ 2018s!

NB: This is the last Burgundy Report on my old server before a big site update. ‘Architecturally’ – i.e. behind the scenes – it will be a major step forward in both speed and stability. I’ll probably have to revisit the design in 6-12 months to make it prettier, but function and content rules – eh? Particularly now that a touch more than 50% of you visit only using your tablets and (i)phones!

Enjoy…

more awards for jon wyand…

By billn on May 02, 2019 #annual laurels

I’m so pleased to see that my old colleague/collaborator/friend (delete as you feel applicable) has more awards to his name.

Jon’s images scooped both first and second prizes in the 2019 Errazuriz Wine Photographer of the Year competition – and, of-course, both his pictures were taken in Burgundy!

Courtesy of Jon you can see here his overall winning image of the Faiveley cuverie in action, in Mercurey – plus the second-prize winning still-life of a cuverie that Jon describes as ‘from an ex-domaine in Russilly‘ – Jon also won this same competition in 2014.

The Errazuriz sponsored categories were titled ‘People’, ‘Places’ and ‘Produce’ and both of Jon’s images were from the ‘Places’ category. Both of these images will also feature in his new book, due out in September-October, in French, but with an English edition also due. ‘A Year in the Côte Chalonnaise.‘ He tells me the book will be the “Same specification as ‘Corton‘ but with a much lighter approach – not so “Grand Cru” this time.

My appetite is whetted.

You can see all the ‘finalists gallery’ here, but note that the page takes an age to show all these images!

today horses, mainly horses…

By billn on April 30, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

A cloudy start today but improving – tomorrow should be lovely – if I have the chance to get out – let’s see. But, maybe frost on Sunday!
 

our friends in the north…

By billn on April 29, 2019 #degustation

Actually there was a ‘chaser’ in the form of another bottle of Nicolas Maillet’s 2014 Mâcon-Verzé – but that’s not from the ‘north!’ In this case a more mature bottle than the previous ones – more honied and deeper coloured – half an hour of air and this freshened and even seemed to have lighter colour – still delicious!

2012 Clotilde Davenne, St.Bris Vieilles-Vignes
From magnum. There’s a little extra depth to the golden colour here. The aromas at first show a faintly fumé, caramel, edge to the more expected mint-leaf – attractive! In the mouth this is simply super – mouth-filling volume, fine structure and mouth-watering and precise flavours. Most people preferred this to the wine that followed. Me included!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Eleonore Moreau, Chablis
From magnum. Medium lemon-yellow colour. The nose is wide and has some weight – a little saline and even spicy. Nice volume in the mouth and with a lovely, silky, texture. Fresh, long, tasty and saline in the mid and finishing flavours. Very tasty wine, if without the precision or intensity of the St.Bris.
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy
From magnum. Deeply coloured – almost saturated. A big fresh waft of aroma – floral, faint pyrazine, and dark cherry. In the mouth a wine of drive and fresh energy, but also with a buffering weight of dark, kirsch-style fruit – and like the nose, inflected with some modest pyrazine notes. This wine has a very most base of tannin – virtually without grain – and long mouth-watering finish. Of-course we are drink this wine far too early – but we are enjoying it – there are more bottles in the cellar for the future!
Rebuy – Yes

a friday night cazetiers…

By billn on April 26, 2019 #degustation

This wine was singing already 2-3 years ago – this is my last. I’ve also some Chapelle-Chambertin in the same mixed case – which wasn’t quite ready the same 2-3 years ago – I think it’s probably time to check in on that one too, soon!

2007 Camille Giroud, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
Plenty of maturity in this medium-coloured wine – though still red-based colour – as opposed to brown! The nose has lovely, silky, width – almost with a creamy accent to notes that are complex, quite mature but very clean – the last drops suggesting something a hint more balsamic but with floral notes too. In the mouth this is certainly mature but still retains a sweetness of fruit – again, the small waves of fruit flavour are accented with a very modest creamy impression – but it’s not at all overt. Fresh, nice complexity of flavour, and like nose, a clean flavour package that pushes you to take another sip – moreish wine. Delicious as this is, I remember enjoying it even more that last time out – super wine nonetheless – but possibly it’s time to drink if you still have some.
Rebuy – Yes

wednesday: more marsannay, more dogs, some morey, lots of rain and a sunny finish

By billn on April 24, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019#vintage 2019


The plain of Gevrey today…

Today was a wet day – not the few spots of sandy, Sahara, rain of yesterday – today was proper rain, and there will be more in the next days too. Perfect for the vines.

The vines are now pushing out their leaves such that the view of the vineyards is transitioning from its winter characteristic, to its summer characteristic; winter sees a base of green grass and weeds, with brown lines of dormant vines – now we have the contrary – ploughed brown soil with green lines of vines – the inversion is well underway!

Prior to the frost, the vines of the Côte d’Or were well over 10 days ahead of the average vintage – now it’s less. This rain, coupled to temperatures in the low twenties, means that there will be a steady, rather than explosive, growth in the vines – a few days of 28-30° are needed for ‘explosive’ – and that’s not yet on the cards…

18h30 the curtain of cloud, the border between rain and blue sky, passed over Vougeot – time for another jog, in the sun, no-less!
 

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