audras 2009 juliénas presitige

By billn on June 07, 2019 #degustation

Audras Julienas2009 Vincent Audras, Juliénas Prestige
Lots of colour here – and younger colour than the previous 2010 from Mikulski! The nose starts really rather uninteresting which is in stark contrast to the palate which is bold, energetic and sweetly ripe-fruited. An hour is needed for the nose to open – then we see (smell!) subtle but dark fruit and a more forward graphite style of aroma. As the nose begins to open, the sweetness of the wine equally seems less jarring – with fine, mouth-watering, width and a little, very fine and ripe, grain of tannin. Not really much ageing here – a wine of freshness (altitude!) to match the ripe fruit. Excellent, still young and delicious!
Rebuy – Yes!

a 2010 mikulski

By billn on June 06, 2019 #degustation

francois mikulski

2010 François Mikulski, Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
The first nose has some dank, admittedly quite attractive dark oak notes – they hang around for 20 minutes or so before offering a nicely incisive dark-red fruit with a suggestion of cream. In the mouth, this is simply delicious: Succulent dark-cherry fruit with a fine rush of acid-led energy. The finish is long and mouth-watering with a faint but attractive lick of tannin to accent the dark fruit. Drinking fabulously right now – but no rush. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes!

a little le grappin…

By billn on June 04, 2019 #degustation

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
A nicely deep colour, but perfectly transparent. Just a touch of floral perfume over close to black fruit – clean and inviting aroma! Mouth-filling freshness – open and energetic with still just a lick of tannin. A super mouthful of dark-fruited clarity and energy. Really excellent wine that you can certainly enjoy now or keep another 5-10 years if that’s your wish – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 22 2019

By billn on June 03, 2019 #degustation

Week 22 – pff! – that sounds like we’re already getting close to half-way through the year!
I’ll have to find a few good wines for the next days as my cold is fading to almost nothing, but for now…

We had weekend guests, so plenty of stuff was opened that has already been in these pages a few times in the last months, but new(ish) was:

2017 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Oh yes – clearly a fun Chablis from the first of the nose to the last of the finish! The nose is fresh, citrus and saline – a fine invitation. Good zip, and a flavour-energy combination that drives well into the middle and finish – really a nice line of acidity here. So Yum…
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Jean Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py
From Magnum. The colour is bright and freshly red but of only medium depth. The nose a little saline and whilst no faults, far from an invitation. The palate was simply lovely. Very comforting red fruits of sucrosity and energy – towards strawberry in fruit style. Light but very rewarding – drunk to the last drop by an appreciative crowd. Simply excellent despite the dumb nose.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 David Clark, Vosne-Romanée
Now here’s a wine that’s absolutely ‘on song‘ on all fronts today! The nose has depth and interest – another wine with a strawberry style to the fruit. Silky in the mouth with just a suggestion of fat to the texture and great energy without ever pushing too hard as some 2008s do. Delicious wine – also drunk to the very last drop.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
Deep colour. A nose that’s fresh, clean and packs a punch of deep, iron-inflected dark fruit. In the mouth this is still rather muscular – it’s a young wine – concentrated but without fat. The mid-palate intensity and length and complexity of the finish are really something to behold. You should still wait 3-5 years, but this drank well, if in a ‘no prisoners’ manner, unlike the ease of the previous two reds.
Rebuy – Yes

the end of may update…

By billn on June 01, 2019 #vintage 2019

Time for an end of May round-up:

I show you the pictures of my iris(s) only to emphasise the point – they are between 6 and 10 days later blooming than last year. Last year they only had another week of nice blooms before they were starting to look a little tired, but this year not all the varieties have flowered yet – perhaps over the weekend as +26°C is forecast.

It’s quite similar in Burgundy.

At the end of March – in-line with most recent vintages – the vineyards were warm and the buds were swelling. For all intents and purposes, we were ahead of the curve (the average) and could easily have been looking at another late-August, early-September harvest – that was before the April’s, and indeed most of May’s, weather.

April brought a number of frosty nights and generally colder weather than March – March often brought temperatures above 22°C – not a single day was above 20° in April – and 12° was closer to the norm. A cohesiveness of vignerons never previously seen was in action in the Côte d’Or choosing to ‘fight’ the frost; candles, bales of straw – you name it, it was burnt – including many sausages at impromptu barbecues, including one near Echézeaux – even Aubert de Villaine joined in the 9.00am drinks on the 14 April, though perhaps imbibing less than some who got home at 11 am and promptly went to bed to sleep it all off!

Most people seem to have seen more damage in the first week of April (05-06), despite most of the buds not being open – the worst has been in the Mâconnais with (possibly) an average of 30% losses – though depending on your place – much more or much less. The Côte de Nuits, Côte Chalonnaise and Beaujolais Crus have hardly been affected – though southern Beaujolais has losses, mainly in the chardonnay – but the bottom of the slopes in the Côte de Beaune and certainly the unprotected areas in Chablis will have suffered – it was a very classic Spring Frost this year, right into May too. Until the fruit-set, post-flowering, we can’t really say much more about what degree of damage.

As noted, May was also uncharacteristically cold – some more bales of hay were burned – often questionably, as it wasn’t even minus temperatures! But properly warm May weather didn’t return until practically the end of the month – this brought a few outliners of flowering in sheltered but sunny spots, but real flowering – up and down the Côte d’Or – will be something for the first week to 10 days of June 2019. For now, harvesting looks like a mid-September operation…

Fortunately, April and May brought some welcome rain – the winter and spring have been very dry. This in itself isn’t a problem – but if the near drought summer conditions of 2017 & 2018 are to be repeated, then there will be some problems. For now, the rest is conjecture and the summer has finally begun…


By billn on May 31, 2019 #degustation

The grip of my cold is loosening – I can smell and taste okay – just the odd bout of coughing now – I might even start jogging over the weekend! To ease me into the grander wines, maybe a couple of ‘easy ones?’ It turns out more complicated than that!

2017 Domaine Passeloup, Pierres Dorées Chardonnay
Slightly creamy, heavily laden with exotic fruit and core of ripe lemon fruit – it’s definitely not from Chablis! Wide, unctuous, but also rather mineral and saline. Unlike most from the region, there’s no rigour, no harshness, to this mineral side, in fact, it’s rather good. The first half is not my style of wine, the second is quite good!. Far from my usual chardonnay tipple, but I can drink a glass of this – possibly two! A slightly warmer sip seemed alcoholic – not nice – keep this cool! I’m still not quite sure what I saw in this wine the first time around…
Rebuy – No

2010 Chezeaux/Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin
Ooh, that’s rather deeply coloured for 2010. A big nose, of soil and graphite, but with forward dark-red fruit too – dare I say very Gevrey! It’s a super invitation. Concentrated and really rather silky – graphite again in the mid-to-finishing flavours. Mouth-watering in the finish too. This is top class villages – concentrated, fresh, clean and with a little panache, despite the concentration. Young but wonderful villages wine…
Rebuy – Yes

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