2019 White Burgundy – part 3 – Chablis

By billn on February 15, 2021 #reports

2019 White Burgundy - part 3 - Chablis

The fifth in my series of 2019 Burgundy Reports is now online. To recap:
1. The whites part 1 – Mâconnais, followed by
2. The whites part 2 – Côte de Beaune
3. The reds part 1 – Côte de Beaune
4. The reds part 2 – Côte de Nuits

Now my latest report, covering the whites of 2019 Chablis is now online – here. This is Part 3 of my three 2019 White Burgundy Reports.

This report covers the visits to taste 2019s at domaines #151 – #216 in my campaign of 2019 visits. It, naturally, includes both what I like and who I like, and rather than ‘just’ scores, I actually recommends which wines to buy!

I hope that you enjoy this in-depth look. I’m now underway in Beaujolais, also tasting 2019s to start my Red Burgundy Report – Part 3! – 55 producers to visit – so that will then be 270 domains visited to taste their 2019s – of course with more to come before the new wave of 2020s starts in around July or August!

weekend wines – yes it’s an early start!

By billn on February 12, 2021 #degustation

weekend - an early start...
Thursday night can be classed as the start of the weekend – no?

2014 Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault
A young colour. The nose starts with a slightly savoury, almost saline reduction – it’s a baby – with air the aromas go deep with a ripe but still fresh fruit. Vibrantly flavoured wine of beautiful fresh balance and fine texture but there’s concentration here too – the finishing line of flavour is really super – such an engaging pure intensity. Great villages, from a great vintage in equally great, still young, shape…
Rebuy – You bet!

2017 Boursot, Gevrey-Chambertin
This starts with a forward, comfortably textured nose of ripe – but not too ripe – fruit and a creamy vanilla oak – a bit too much of the latter, today at any rate. I only took one glass on the first night – a good decision – the oak is seemingly quite volatile as on day two it has reduced to a faint accent. The wine, like most Côte de Nuits in 2017 is amply concentrated and very forward/attractive. Deliciously layered, pure fruited, easy wine. Very enjoyable indeed but for the sake of my dislike for vanilla, I wouldn’t open another for 2 years.
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
The cork comes out no problem, though sniffing the wet end implies a problem – not TCA, rather with brett, let’s see…
Ouch, that stinks – DNPIM! In the glass as it aerates it smells marginally less bad with time – against my better judgement I take a sip – that’s actually not bad(!) – I can hardly taste the brett. Fresh, nice energy and dimension of flavour – that’s super – but the wine still stinks! If you wait long enough – a minimum of 25-30 minutes – the brett aroma is almost gone and now you have something really very nice. Of course, once you refill the glass, you are back to square-one so will have to wait another 30 minutes – that’s like a dry February!
Rebuy – No
Fortunately, this was my last bottle of a 6-pack; clearly this was no outliner

offer of the day – 2019 l’Arlot

By billn on February 11, 2021 #the market

In my inbox – I offer the comparison with the previous prices (in brackets) of the 20018s, 2017s, 2016s, and 2015…
— signifies ‘not offered’

Domaine de l’Arlot

Nuits-Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru 2019 75cl — (69.50, 59.00, —, 59.00)* Swiss Francs
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Hors Ligne’ 2019 75cl — (—, 79.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de l’Arlot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.50 (88.00, 85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.50 (88.00, 85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2019 150cl 184.00, (181.00, 175.00, 175.00, —)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2019 75cl 135.00 (129.00, 119.00, 119.00, 109.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2019 150cl — (263.00, —, —, —)
Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2019 75cl 498.00 (—, —, 486.00, 445.00)

A more compact offering of the domaine’s wines this year.
*Note that an additional 7.7% sales tax is also due, but the delivery cost is included…

la romanée-a-go-go….

By billn on February 10, 2021 #diary dates#the market

Baghera-blog-main-image-Article- la romanee memories

Whilst I’ve had plenty of open questions for wines in multiple sales by this Swiss auction house, Baghera continues to push the boundaries as to what a great sale can be.

Irreproachable sales of the last bottles from the Engel and Jayer estates are now complemented, if not augmented, by this.

An online catalogue will be available on February 18, 2021 for the sale on Sunday 18 April, 2021 – I think that I will try to attend…

“On April 18, as part of its “La Romanée Memories” sale, Baghera/wines will have the immense honour of presenting a set of nearly 2,000 bottles from the cellars of the Maison Bouchard Père & Fils to the public. This extremely rare collection of 1,926 bottles, magnums and jeroboam contains wine in an irreproachable state of preservation withdrawn from a long rest in the Château de Beaune cellars.”

Quote and image above from Baghera

offer of the day – bruno clair – 2017 & 2018s

By billn on February 09, 2021 #the market

From my usual Swiss merchant. In brackets, where offered, are the previous prices of the 2016s:

Domaine Bruno Clair
Marsannay Blanc 2018 75cl 28.00* (Swiss Francs)
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2018 75cl 145.00

Marsannay 2017 75cl 32.00
Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes 2018 75cl 39.00
Marsannay Les Longeroies 2018 75cl 40.00
Aloxe-Corton 2018 75cl 46.00

Savigny-les-Beaune Les Jarrons 1er Cru 2017 75cl 48.00
Savigny-les-Beaune Les Jarrons 1er Cru 2018 75cl 48.00
Savigny-les-Beaune La Dominode 1er Cru 2018 75cl 59.00

(Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2016 75cl 115.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2017 75cl 105.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2018 75cl 119.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru 2017 75cl 139.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru 2018 75cl 145.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2017 75cl 189.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2018 75cl 215.00

(Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2016 75cl 325.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 75cl 298.00
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 75cl 335.00

(Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2016 75cl 385.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 75cl 298.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2018 75cl 335.00

As opined about the 2016 – the Bèze price was much too high – I don’t know what the ideas were there. So, far from cheap at the top – great wines as they are – for me, I see a lot of value in a mixed-case of (red) Marsannays and the Dominode!
*As always with this merchant – there’s an additional Swiss purchase tax of 7.7% to add, but then the prices are delivered…

some wine (no surprise) from Chablis to Beaujolais…

By billn on February 08, 2021 #degustation

Marie-Elodie Zighera Confuron's 2018's
Marie-Elodie Zighera Confuron’s wines

A mix of wines tasted at home, and three tasted in Beaujolais without the winemaker – hence no separate report – so starting with Clos de Mez:

2018 Clos de Mez, Fleurie La Dot
Plenty of colour but less overt than the Bachelard wines (where I was tasting). An open width of aroma – partly floral – rather inviting. Fine drive and good freshness – there’s energy here – the concentration is not so overt but it’s still there. Subtly framed with tannin but über-fine-grained. The finish has plenty of dimension and complexity too. Really excellent…

2017 Clos de Mez, Morgon Château Gaillard
Here is a little less colour. An open nose – floral above but with a width and depth of rounder, spiced, red fruit. Mouth-filling, growing with an extra intensity in the finish before slowly fading. The tannin is more forward here but with zero visible grain. Wider at the end. Very different shape to the wine – the vintage and the place. Another simply excellent wine.

And while tasting with Anne-Sophie Dubois:

2019 Sylvain Martel – Domaine Cabissou, Julienas Bessay
Partner of Anne-Sophie, these vines high on the hill with some clay but lots of blue-stone – ‘You notice straight away in the cuverie there’s a different side to this wine – not an easy parcel to work – we do everything with a Troye.’
A weight of aroma but freshness too, faintly herbed. More incisive freshness versus the previous Fleuries. Super mouth-watering style, slowly melting over the palate in fine style – that’s a lovely wine…

Finally at home, 4 top wines from the north and south of ‘Burgundy:’

2017 Gilbert Picq, Chablis Vidécorse
A deep nose of mildly textured ripe lemon – just the merest suggestion of salinity. Nicely incisive with a fine acidity – there’s a mineral concentration here – with accents from the citrus too. The finish has a very fine intensity – that’s really very long too. A wine that started round but became tauter and added tension as it became more aerated. Really excellent young Chablis!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Raphael Chopin, Beaujolais Funambule
Actually this is a declassified Beaujolais Villages made with no added sulfur.
The nose is forward and rewardingly pure-fruited. I’m really enjoying the depth and texture of this wine – such a delicious, succulent fruit too – indeed quite sweet fruit but finishing deliciously juicy – bravo again!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Domaine Monternot – Les Jumeaux, Beaujolais Villages Fruit et Terroir
Deep colour. The nose is fresh and excitingly deep-fruited – modestly spiced too. A super blend of energy and succulent dark fruit – extending beautifully into the finish. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin, Chablis 1er Vaillons
A baby – a reductive agrume nose here, becoming more waxy. A fine width of freshness. Slowly starting to show more mature notes in the middle. Finishing great – and oh-so complex. A top wine – and the longer it’s open, the fresher and less mature it seems to become. Simply great wine for today.
Rebuy – Yes

Plus a few images from Beaujolais last week. This week is a ‘typing week’ at home – back to Beaujolais for my second of three weeks, next week!

week one of Beaujolais visits

By billn on February 03, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

I love what I do, but truth be told, sandwiches in the car each day and something rush-purchased from the supermarket before it closes at 6pm for my evening in the hotel – well, it’s wearing thin. Also, I can’t sufficiently describe how much I miss my, between-visits, coffee! So far I have exercised a lot of choice though, three days and three different lots of sandwiches; salmon, roast pork and today – tada! – chicken… I will have next week at home to recover!

On the positive side, 2019 Beaujolais is a simply delicious thing – it’s only my third day of tasting and I’ve already more than 20 bottles in the car. So far, the weather has not been as welcoming as the wines – naturally, I will be hoping for more photogenic weather during the last two weeks of February – assuming the borders remain open. Maybe there will be a more impressive range of sandwiches too!

Some views from this week, so far:

The latest winners in Chablis…

By billn on January 25, 2021 #annual laurels

Chablis today - 16h51...
Chablis today – 16h51…

I’m in Chablis this week to complete my tour of 66 domaines’ 2019s and a blind-tasting today of 66 (a coincidence!) 2019 Petit Chablis – and not a single one was corked!

From what better place to bring you the results of the Annual Concourse de Chablis which took place over the weekend. I am most-kindly invited to take part each year, but I equally kindly decline each year too – three weeks away from home in January is enough, without taking an additional weekend too – much as I enjoy what I do.

Anyway, from 321 samples, tasted by 46 jurors came 27 medalists in this 35th year of the tasting. The medals were mainly for wines from the 2019 vintage, except that the grand crus were from 2018 – so here you go – click the image for the results.

a new site

By billn on January 24, 2021 #other sites

I would say from a friend, certainly a co-taster at many a domaine. Guillaume Baroin, late of the RvF and since last year going it alone.

Here’s his new site – en Français – bien sûr! Enjoy if you’re interested.

Burgundy Report

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