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a great weekend selection…

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A lucky selection – and that was just the house wines for the weekend!

2010 Buisson-Charles, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Medium, medium-pale colour. Pretty, if modest red fruit aromas. Here is a slightly sweet and completely delicious wine – very modest weight and intensity, but it does what it does, excellently!
Rebuy – Yes

2008, Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle
Medium-plus colour. A dark-fruited, faintly spiced but rather exciting nose. Lovely acidity – not a bit sharp, but fine, precise and intense. Really lovely flavour and no over barrel influence. Another simply delicious wine!
Rebuy – Yes

1993 Jayer-Gilles, Nuits St.Georegs Les Hautes Poirets
Medium-plus colour. The cork doesn’t smell nice, but the wine smells dreamy! A little dark, decayed oak stays around for only about 5 minutes, followed by deep roasted red fruit – but it changes further – the fruit aromas become ever-more precise and detailed – beautiful stuff! In the mouth there’s width, weight and pretty fruit and sweet, old, old oak underneath. Lovely freshness, complexity and vitality too. A wine to savour – really super-yum!
Rebuy – Yes

summertime…

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 Vosne-Romanée this week…

36 degrees yesterday, and and practically the whole week with 30°C-plus.

Sticky but glorious! Next week starts similarly but cools and becomes a little stormy – so they say anyway!

It’s frankly perfect for the flowering as there’s not much wind and the temperature is really driving the process – at this rate it may all be finished next week – at least in the Côte d’Or. Farmers the world-over, however, always have a little something to complain about, and Burgundy is no different; The heat rather compacts the flowering into a few fewer days and a shorter flowering will typically mean a shorter harvest – because more grapes will be ready at the same time.

Some you win, and some… 😉

One person not complaining? well that’s me. Unexpected helicopter flights plus invitations to dinners which included Leflaive, Lafon, Dujac and de Vogüé made for a great week. I would tell you that it’s something that only happens once per year, but I’d be lying – I’ve been regularly visiting the Côte d’Or since 2000, and less regularly since 1997 – and it’s only happened once in the last 15 years 😉

a morey dog and her view…

The view from Domaine des Beaumonts yetserday late-afternoon, looking towards the hill of Morey St.Denis:

yesterday – a special treat…

Of-course, starting in Vosne-Romanée…

monday – it must be a chablis day…

Gathered together in Zürich for a nice group tasting – blind of Chablis. I’ll write the notes soon, but there was more than an occasional whiff of oxidation – unfortunately…

grèves vs le chapitre – and the winner is….

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1998 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
A ‘maison’ wine – as there’s no hint of ‘domaine’ on the labels. And this time not corked! The nose is a little herby but there’s a deep, dark-red fruit on the nose too – good focus, though it’s just a little raucous/rustic. In the mouth it’s similar to the nose – plenty of energy and a core of dark-red, sweet at the core fruit. The structure is present but painless – yet like the nose there’s a rusticity about it despite good depth and complexity. Satisfying enough but not a wine to search out.
Rebuy – Maybe

2009 Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Le Chapitre
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a bit spritzy and almost with a cola note – it needs to lose CO2. Waiting, plus a bit of swirling, reveals a similarly shaded fruit colour to the Jadot Grèves, but with an extra clarity and smoothness. There’s much of this wine that reminds of the Jadot, if with only 90% the concentration, but this really delivers more elegance and fineness of texture. This is fresh and finely balanced – not from an obviously sunny year. This is very, very good – and importantly, quite delicious.
Rebuy – Yes

ultra-orange wine…

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No, not a lecture on ‘off-wine’ – well not in an ‘orange direction’ anyway.

I expected maybe one glass from the Puligny, but fortunately it was on fire, because the 98 Beaune Grèves that I had planned to follow was corked. I open all 1990s wines with a certain (cork) trepidation as it was a terrible time for taint – easily 10%, but I reckon higher. I’ll try another of these Jadots in the next days…

Returning to the Puligny. From an auction ‘lot’ I bought a year or two ago, this is the second I’ve opened. All these have a dark colours and the first had quite a high level of oxidation on the both the cork and the wine. This one’s cork smelled fine, despite the wine almost tending to brown…

1982 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet
Dark orange wine – almost tending to brown, but – hmm… Bingo! A certain freshness, white chocolate, wet wool, lanolin… In the mouth a plush silkiness with gorgeous sucrosity of fruit leaching, together with the acidity, through the gaps in your teeth and over the tongue. The finish is super-wide and slowly mouth-watering and with a faint nougat in the length. Great wine!
Rebuy – No Chance

I’ve 3 more of these, and if none are as good as this – so be it – but this was brilliant. Not bad for a villages! The only other villages I’ve had at the same level were the 64 and 59 Meursaults from Nicolas Potel’s Collection Bellenum – this one sits somewhere in-between.

monday 2010s – one corked one not…

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Two 2010s but unfortunately the first – the Talmettes – was heavily corked…

2010 Hervé Murat, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Le Clos Duc
Medium, medium-plus fruit. A dark and herby nose – but with brilliant flashes of fine, dark-red fruit – the herb isn’t so great, but the fruit is. This is supple and shows good concentration and excellent balance. Nice dark-fruit flavour with a mouth-watering sweetness that runs through the structure – but no dryness. Good finish too. Tasty wine…
Rebuy – Yes

time to start your 100 day countdown!

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Pic by Olivier Lamy.

Floraison in Burgundy (flowering in Burgundy) – reported and pictured by Olivier Lamy today. He saw the first flowers today in Criots, Chaumées and Gravières vineyards.

Those are all chardonnay – the pinot is usually later to flower…

a sunday nuits walkabout…

A hike up to Château Gris and higher…

a saturday (mainly) puligny walkabout…

mâcon wine note(?)

Mâcon wine note – Friday evening, 22nd May (and Saturday too) on the ‘Esplanade Lamartine’ in Mâcon…

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