a new report online

By billn on October 28, 2022 #reports

Already online for a couple of days – here

June 2020 - Burgundy Report

“Mainly 2020s from 12 domaines, an important vineyard profile and a look at how the 1996 vintage for reds is coming along – spoiler – the Musigny was the best wine!”

a couple of mid-weekers…

By billn on October 27, 2022 #degustation

week 43 2022 - a couple of midweekers

Week 43, 2022 – already! And you can see that my cold has improved – right? 🙂

2017 Domaine Verret, Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre Les Gaudiers
Young colour. A nose that is incisive to start but still shows plenty of creamy oak in the background. Just as incisive in the mouth – this has a great structural shape, intensity and concentration of lemon-citrus fruit – but again a lot of creamy, almost vanilla oak which seems to add excessive sweetness. A wine that’s seriously great in parts but, too much, resembles a lemon pie with too much creamy vanilla – in my glass, anyway – normally, I don’t decline lemon pie!
Rebuy – No

2019 Berthaut-Gerbet, Vosne-Romanée
Such depth of colour! This nose is deeply, darkly, red-fruited, but with such fine purity to that fruit. Supple, perhaps with a couple of millimetres of cushion to the silky flavours. Sweetly ripe but not in the ‘make-up’ style of the Verret. Very modest bitters in this finish but no overt tannin – just a silky texture. A wine that adds dimensions as it warms and takes in air in your glass. Far too easy to drink for such a baby and just beautifully proportioned.
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines – week 42 2022

By billn on October 25, 2022 #degustation

weekend wines week 42 2022

Disappointingly, I’m at home this week*: A cold that developed over the weekend has left me coughing like a horse – not a good look while trying to taste wines retailing for $1,000 a bottle – even when triple-negative tested! Only about 15 domaine visits to be rescheduled – I think I’ll probably be fit (and presentable!) to taste again by Friday.

But before I started losing any of my senses, there were two nice bottles at the weekend:

2016 Château Bonnet, Juliénas
Broad and exciting aromas – faintly with some development but that characteristic oxidative note of gamay/Beaujolais – like Marsala – is hardly yet evident. Broad, great energy and long finishing make this wine completely delicious. Despite not being anywhere like fully mature I’d still say à point!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Maison Harbour, Santenay 1er Les Gravières Blanc
Hmm – here’s a generous, clean and attractive nose – a fine invitation. Mouth-filling, structural but also generously flavoured – there’s so much packed into this wine. Long, energetic and concentrated – large-scaled but never wearing. The second completely delicious wine of the weekend!
Rebuy – Yes

*Still, it means that I’m catching up on writing visit reports – 5 done today!

Adieu – Hubert Lamy

By billn on October 24, 2022 #sad losses...

Olivier LamyI was sad to hear last week of the passing of Hubert Lamy, father of Olivier, and still with his name firmly fixed to the side of this irreproachable 18 hectare St.Aubin domaine. And doesn’t this photo of Hubert – shared by Olivier – show a strong resemblance between father and son!

Hubert passed away on October 14, 2022 – he was 79 years young.

Hubert had worked with his father, Jean, before creating in 1973 the domaine that’s so well-known today.

Hubert began with a focus on regional appellations and was one of the earliest domaines in St.Aubin to bottle their own wines. Expansion came in the 1990s and during this period Hubert and his domaine were equally energised by the arrival of his son, Olivier, who joined the domaine in 1995. I remember asking Olivier, around 2002, if he was considering changing the name of the domaine to ‘Olivier,’ he smiled and said “There’s really no reason for me to do that as it was my father who created what we have today…

A service was held last Thursday at St.Aubin’s church. RIP Hubert…

the foot-stabber’s guide

By billn on October 23, 2022 #warning - opinion!

Andrew Jefford: ‘Perhaps they think “drinkers like oak”. Really?’

I don’t find a lot to inspire me in most of the current glut of semi-regurgitated articles, but there’s not much to argue with here!

it rained today so how about some pics from the previous 2 days :)

By billn on October 20, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

But that’s another week without any gas needed for the central heating – 23-24°C in downtown Beaune this week:

Of course, so far, there have been some vignerons to see 🙂 Of course, you will meet them in the coming Burgundy reports…

birthday weekend

By billn on October 17, 2022 #annual laurels#degustation

I may have taken a couple of days out of my Burgundy tasting schedule but as you might see, not all of Burgundy was taken out of my days 😉

On Friday, the only place in Switzerland that wasn’t rainy was Ticino – so we took a trip to Lugano and Morcote – pizza for lunch! We returned via Luzern’s Wilden Mann restaurant. Saturday with family, starting with an impeccable Montrachet – so young with firework reduction and still some creme brulee. Then followed the 1962 Nuits 1er Clos des Forêts St.Georges. This dates from the time, before l’Arlot, of Domaine Belin. When Axa bought Belin, the old cellar of Belin wasn’t included in the sale. For some time the cellar, containing many wines from the 1960s, resided with Domaine Louis Max in Nuits – where a name change appeared during covid times. I have an appointment to get a bit more info on what’s afoot with Louis Max (by another name…)

Anyway, about 10 years ago I asked, chez Louis Max, if I could buy some 1962 Clos des Forêts and they said they would get back to me. It turned out that not all the old bottles were in the best shape, but they decided to put two (and a bit!) good ones together, with a dab of sulfur, and make a magnum – well, I couldn’t turn down the opportunity! And you know what? 10 years later it was brilliant. All the concentration and sweet depth of flavour that I’ve found characterises the 1962 vintage – only the first couple of sips suggested a faint oxidation – and then it was gone. It’s a simple measure of whether a wine is good or not – it was drunk to the last few millilitres of its earthy sediment – and only 3 of us were drinking! Brilliant – simply a joy!

offer of the day – henri boillot 2021

By billn on October 12, 2022 #the market

Boillot Puligny Monopole plaque with view towards PulignyDomaine Henri Boillot 2021 – en primeur
As always, from my local Swiss merchant who makes this offer about the same time each year.
I leave you with the 2020, 2019, 2018 and the 2017 pricing in brackets.

With anywhere between minus 90% and minus 50% volume for whites in 2021 – hence so many missing cuvées in this offer – you didn’t expect it to go down did you?
— = not offered

*Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021 75cl 33.00 (29.00, 29.00, 26.00, 23.00) Swiss Francs

St.Aubin 1er 2021 75cl — (55.00, —)

Meursault 2021 75cl 68.00 (—)
Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or 2021 75cl — (105.00, 95.00, —)
Meursault Clos Richemont 2021 75cl 149.00 (115.00, 105.00, —)
Meursault Les Genevrières 2021 75cl — (129.00, 125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Meursault Les Perrières 2021 75cl — (138.99, —, 125.00, 115.00)

Puligny-Montrachet 2021 75cl 68.00 (58.00, 58.00, 55.00, 52.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Folatières 2021 75cl 149.00 (135.00, 125.00, —)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2021 75cl — (135.00, 125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 2021 75cl 149.00 (129.00, 115.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 2021 75cl 149.00 (138.00, 128.00, 115.00, 108.00)

Corton Charlemagne 2021 75cl 248.00 (205.00, 188.00, 175.00, 168.00)
Montrachet 2021 75cl — (945.00, 895.00, 845.00, 795.00)

Volnay Les Chevrets 2021 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 89.00, 89.00, 89.00)
Volnay Les Caillerets 2021 75cl 99.00 (99.00, 99.00, 99.00, 99.00)

Clos de Vougeot 2021 75cl 208.00 (185.00, 179.00, 169.00, 158.00)
Echézeaux 2021 75cl 259.00 (239.00, 229.00, 229.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2021 75cl 330.00 (—)
Bonnes-Mares 2021 75cl — (350.00, 330.00, 319.00, 298.00)
Chambertin 2021 75cl — (350.00, —, 319.00, 298.00)

*The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

just a few recent wines…

By billn on October 11, 2022 #degustation

As Dan and Mike, in the comments, were interested. Here are some notes from a previous post plus some other bottles too:

2019 Berthaut-Gerbet, Bourgogne Hautes Côted de Nuits
Medium-plus colour. Perfumed with dark-red fruit. Nicely sweeping lines from this middle-weight wine, a wine that was drunk in one evening – elegant and pure. it really hit the spot
Rebuy – Yes

1993 Comtes Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenots de Milieu
A cork that came out like the wine was just 2 years old – a loud ‘pop!’
A wide, structural, interesting and super-clean nose. Like the nose a structural wine, wiry, some minerality here too. Just a little austere but beautifully boned – I wouldn’t hesitate waiting 2-3 more years for this, I have the feeling it’s not going anywhere fast!
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Fremiet
Here the nose is showing some leathery characteristics – it’s not got the Volnay purity that I like. On the palate, however, this is lovely; more floral and elegant than the Lafon and simply delicious today – its structure is less obviously visible. Delicious but not the best aromatic.
Rebuy – Maybe

2018 Charles Lachaux, Vosne-Romanée
The current pricing of these wines is eye-watering but we took this from a wine list and tried to keep an open mind. We were rewarded!
Very modest colour – it could be a 2017. Aromatically captivating! What a fabulous and elegant, frankly ethereal, perfume – yes! It’s the same on the palate too – ethereal, intoxicatingly perfumed, elegant wine. It transcends AOC – it doesn’t have the weight or concentration of a grand cru but most grand crus don’t satisfy as this wine did – a little marvel!
Rebuy – I wish!

1986 Romanée-Conti, Grands-Echézeaux
The cork came out in one – not bad with this age!
Another wine with super perfume – more complex and more rugged than the Lachaux – but doesn’t quite transport you to another dimension like that wine. In the mouth, this is an old lady – all in place, easy to drink – not special (like the nose) just a fine and satisfying drink. On its way down, I think, but still very good.
Rebuy – no, it’s no-longer worth the tariff

2001 Georges Mugneret, Clos de Vougeot
I bought three of these on release. The first I opened about 5 years ago and it wasn’t a very interesting bottle. Has 5 more years made a difference?
Not a forceful nose but one with some pretty floral elegance. The flavour profile is similarly floral; the structure present though modest for a Clos de Vougeot. Not an amazing grand cru but certainly a delicious wine!
Rebuy – Maybe

2001 Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Like the previous wine, my last one of these was unsatisfying – in this case seemingly muddied and bretty – this was altogether better.
Airy, partly floral – good complexity with plenty of maturity starting to show. Engaging, open wine. Like the Mugneret a 2001 that’s very much on the elegant scale but delivers satisfying complexity, texture and length. That’s a lovely wine – I have much more hope for my remaining bottles.
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Françoise Andre, Corton-Charlemagne
A little on the young side – both aromatically and from the flavour perspective – just a little tight. Yet, engaging and fun to drink, all the same. The finish impresses. To see again but very good.
Rebuy – Maybe

2x 2017 Chablis
Great to compare and contrast the VV from Gilbert Picq with the wine of Laurent Tribut:
The Picq, as most of my wines from them, is just a bit young and tight – I feel the shape and love the clarity but a wine to be more patient with than the example that I set. To the contrary, Tribut’s wines often seem to have that little extra pizzaz at the same stage – maybe the lack of (stated!) VV in this case – but here’s a wine that is already drinking deliciously; structural and deliciously mouthwatering. For a villages – absolute class.
Rebuy – yes, one to keep and one to drink

2017-2019 Coche-Dury, Meursault
Not everyday drinking, for sure, but with occasional friends in town and a restaurant that sells locally for about 25% of retail, there are some opportunities here 😉
The first I tasted was the 2018; clearly a good wine, in fact a very good wine, but I didn’t really see the Coche-ness with this one. Delicious but a hard sell even at this price. No problem, a couple of weeks later it was sold out! So then came the 2019 – and wow! This is a beauty, subtly rippling muscle and signature reductive elements – now we are talking. But given that my acquaintances had drunk too many bottles of this, our host has removed it from the wine-list, worried that it will be sold out long before it is possible replenish stocks with the 2020s. However! They had done similar with 2017 and there is still some of this, only for an increased tariff, now €300! I can honestly say that this is also the real deal – precise and very Coche. Another beauty.
Rebuy? – I’d happily drink any of them but I’d only buy 2 of them!

2019 Jeremy Recchione, l’Ambroise
An interesting assemblage of aligoté and gamay (70%). Zero added sulfur
Still plenty of colour. A nose that’s not the height of interest but still intriguing. In the mouth this is quite direct and has a flavour profile that’s hard to pin down. Drinkable for sure but just a little anonymous in style – and you know that burgundy addicts like to be able to put their finger on a map when it comes to wines.
Rebuy – No

2016 Maison Harbour, Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
A nice wax top to this bottle – I know some buyers don’t like this – but I do 🙂
Relatively pale colour. The nose and flavours are hardly even those of middle-weights but the fragrance and perfume in the flavours is lovely. As the wine reacts to the air, structurally it becomes just a little jarring, structurally, in the middle and finishing flavours – a nod to the difficult 2016 vintage – but still great perfume.
Rebuy – No

That’s enough for now – but later today I’ve a 2016 Juliénas to check in on 😉

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