hot in malconsorts today…

By billn on July 05, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Yes, I know I can be a bit of a classicist, but after yesterday’s Meursault, why not a little Vosne-Romanée today?. Here some views from in Aux Malconsorts. It was hot today!

The grapes are growing quickly, but here, at least, they are far from uniform. The yield looks lower than last year and some of the clusters have a little coulure, others already have have a little sunburn on the side of the the afternoon sun.

a little meursault in the evening…

By billn on July 04, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

some cool bottles from the last days…

By billn on July 02, 2019 #degustation

Honestly, it’s taken me a few days to drink these – and with help too! The hot days of the last week-or-so have seen me reaching for bottles of water, direct from the refrigerator, rather than for wine. I’m predominantly in need refreshment right now, and if I were to cool the wine more then I would just drink it far too quickly than would seem appropriate for the cost of the bottles! Oh well – but you can at least see that I’m trying!

2014 Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre Le Clos du Château
Open, attractive, very citrussy sweetness, even suggesting a little white flower blossom. I always like the mouth-filling volume and energy from this wine, and apart from one that had a bit of mustiness (probably) from the cork, all remain, bright and attentive. Long, incisive citrus fruit for a finish too. Excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Alice & Olivier De Moor, Bourgogne Chitry
Some of the first bottles seemed to have some aromatic padding, but this seems to be becoming more incisive with time – I like! Modestly mineral, melting flavour that has a becoming sweetness. Just a delicious wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Domaine Faiveley, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champ Gain
This starts with plenty of barrel – sweet, creamy, almost vanilla barrel – and a very unusual impression of banana – clearly not my ‘thing.’ I defer to my bottle of water. On day 2 (overnight in the fridge) this has improved massively – no oak, no banana and a fresh and direct, slightly citrus invitation now comes from the nose. I like the shape in the mouth – cut, definition, and fine energy. Growing in stature in the middle and already showing a great finish. I might not have loved the start, but the finish is more than promising. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

faiveley’s 2010 nuits 1er chaignots

By billn on June 26, 2019 #degustation

Faiveley Nuits 1er Aux Chaignots2010 Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Chaignots
A wine that’s starting to show some maturity of colour. Ooh! What a nose! Complex, inviting, incredibly attractive spiced fruit. In the mouth there is much that reflects the nose – this wine is showing in such a flamboyant way today! Great energy blends with delicious complexity – it’s got so much more interest than the grand cru that it sits next to. Downright great wine today – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

My, my – I’m so enjoying 2010s right now!

this points nonsense is exactly that, nonsense – but don’t blame the wine…

By billn on June 25, 2019 #degustation#warning - opinion!

Or should I simply say ridiculous?

Let me get two things out of the way to start with:

  1. 2017 is a great vintage for white burgundy
  2. I also loved and highly recommended this wine in my December 2018 report for subscribers:
    2017 Ladoix
    A relatively new contract since 2015. It needed some work to sell to regular clients but now is starting to go very well. 30% new oak again.
    A vibrant nose – fresh, mineral and cut with citrus – yes! More density, more depth – ooh this great! Mineral, concentrated and beautifully pure – I could drink this every day – bravo!

But 98 points for a village? On the positive side, whoever reviewed this wine can indeed spot a great wine in its segment, but on the other hand, they render any scoring system completely meaningless – or perhaps, as Clive Coates once said, “Scores are in context!“…

vintage 2019 update

By billn on June 25, 2019 #vintage 2019

It’s going to get hot this week – 40° hot. Many are the domaines that are altering their work schedule to cope – starting their days in the vines between 5-6am and finishing at lunchtime – at least the outdoor portion of their duties!

I briefly saw Mark O’Connell in the vines on Sunday (right, in his Pommard 1er Grand Clos des Epenots) and he told me “The foliage looks great, it looks like I haven’t got very big yields, but compared to what I’ve had in most years – 2018 excepted – I’m happy. So far nothing to worry about in terms of maladies, but I’m keeping my fingers crossed!

Last week saw many domaines starting work on both their palissage – that’s securing the growing shoots between the wires to guard against the wind – and their hedging/pruning – i.e. cutting the tops off the quickly growing vines. This hedging usually only starts when the flowering is done and is most quickly done with a tractor and a cutter to mow the tops of the vines, but more and more domaines are choosing to use the old method of multiple people using hand-shears. As one grower confided “I’ve got 10 workers in the vines – I’ve got to keep them busy doing something! But joking aside, I’m doing this more and more by hand as that’s one less visit in the vines with a heavy tractor, compacting the soil.

Flowering has been over for a while in some places, but Chablis and the Côte Chalonnaise were not yet over at the weekend – but it will be close to finished anytime now. I spoke with Eduard Parinet, who has vines in both Pouilly-Fuissé and in Moulin à Vent and he tells me that the vines, in both places, have recovered better than they could have hoped for following the frost of 05 April. The losses, however, are still estimated to be in the order of 25-30%.

Then there’s the question of the heat this week; The growth of the vines has been luxurious, despite not so much rain this year – another grower, Elodie Roy, told me yesterday “Thank god for the rain that we had on Friday night/Saturday morning – I’ve 1,200 new vines planted – I really didn’t want to be out in the heat with my watering can!” Of course, growth will slow if Burgundy touches 40°C – the plants tending to shut down to protect themselves from excess, but the weather pattern may cool a little and become stormy early next week – let’s see!

Burgundy Report

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