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Boris Champy – the new man for Domaine des Lambrays…

Boris Champy in action, right…

It is official this week – ultra-athlete Boris Champy will be the new face of Domaine des Lambrays – taking over the role of Thierry Bruin as he moves into his retirement.

Boris, who hails from a family of vignerons in Champagne, studied in Bordeaux and worked for the Moueix Family (Petrus, Trotanoy et-cetera) then had a 10 year stint at Moueix’s Dominus in California (1997-2007). In 2008 he joined Domaine Louis Latour in Beaune, and whilst we can forever-and-a-day discuss the wine-making at Latour, under Boris the viticulture was brought up to the highest possible level. Boris will be replaced at Louis Latour by Christophe Deola, production director since 2011, previously responsible for bottling, dry goods and Latour’s cooperage – Christophe is both a Viticultural Engineer and Oenologue.

Regarding Domaine des Lambrays, I asked Boris if he was happy or sad to have missed all pruning at Lambrays – “Well, it means I’ll have to wait for the 2018s to call a vintage 100% my own” he countered!

And for those of you that don’t know, Boris is a cyclist, marathon runner, ‘ultra-trailer’ and an Ironman triathlete – in his ‘spare time’…

“a hailstone shield to kill destructive storms”

It’s in the newspapers – so it must be true!

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/04/15/entire-burgundy-wine-region-covered-hi-tech-hail-shield-kill/

david clark’s 2009 bourgogne au pelson

2009 David Clark Bourgogne Pinotr Noir Au Pelson
This was the first, and probably only, wine that David Clark made with all the stems – 100% whole cluster – and it really smelled of it when young. Today we have really a more perfumed impression – rose-petals – and it smells delicious. In the mouth it retains good volume and a lovely texture – all the sweetness of fruit that 2009 can offer too. Long, just a little more herbed in the finish, but this is becoming a lovely thing. I think I drank far too many when they were young, because this is a beauty now – but I have maybe less than half a case remaining. Super ‘simple’ bourgogne…
Rebuy – Yes

maurice chapuis 1990 corton-charlemagne

1990 Maurice Chapuis, Corton-Charlemagne
Golden colour – but no brown. The nose, amazingly, starts in a firework/gunflint reductive style – with time the glass becoming richer with more of a salted caramel and lanolin style. In the mouth there’s really a nice volume of flavour, some richness and sweetness but also a base of saline minerality too – just lovely in the finish – way better 2 hours after opening than for the first 20 minutes – sometimes old whites just need a lot of aeration – and this is one – a mid-week treat!
Reuy – Yes

ponsot’s 2009 griotte

A cellar search for something ‘disruptive and belligerent‘ – Laurent Ponsot is certainly disruptive so this was not a bad choice. Actually I was surprised to note that even the 2009s bear his domaine name stamped into the base of the bottle – I had assumed that this was, relatively, a more recent change. I went back through some older bottles to see when it started – the 2008s are stamped, the 2007s not…

2009 Ponsot / des Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin
The colour is relatively modest – it least with 2015s in mind – though not brilliantly bright. The first sniff is round and tight but within minutes the aromas open their arms with complexity and depth, first with a silky and deep red cherry and then adding mineral complexity and even more width and depth – ooh – this is one of the best things that I’ve sniffed in a long time – it’s that good! Medium weight, silky wine but with a growing intensity of fine flavour that persists as well as a 2015. For such a baby, this an über-covetable wine. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

early hail in savigny, yesterday…

It’s very early in the season, and I’m not aware of very much damage – so far! – but there was hail in Savigny yesterday, reported by both Maison Harbour and Nicolas Rossignol. See the video below (via Instagram) that Nico posted from Les Lavières:

weekend wines – week 14 2017

The sun was out and I’d also spent some time with wines from Mâcon last week – so why not keep it going over the weekend?

2014 Château des Rontets, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Birbettes
Medium yellow colour. The nose is fresh waft of lemon curd – very attractive. Lovely in the mouth, incisive enough but at the same time perfectly textured – direct, modestly mineral, refreshingly intense. Just a really great young wine. Only the finish has an extra accent of oak, but really nothing that would put me off and the flavour is so mouth-watering. Really a high-class PF…
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Domaine de la Sarazinière, Bourgogne Aligoté Clos des Bruyères
A wine that starts with a little toasty reduction, but as it opens it becomes an ever finer and bright, pure citrus nose. Silky, bright and with just a little citrus and mineral length – don’t let this get too warm or flavours broaden and become less precise. With cheese or with barbecue, this was just a super wine – very yum!
Rebuy – Yes

Céline et Laurent Tripoz, Crémant de Bourgogne Nature
A modest golden colour. The nose has hints of sherry, beer, apple and a fine mandarin note too. In the mouth this has a really fine width of flavour, super freshness and a fine cooked apple. Extra complex in the finish and it’s a fine and long finish. Despite some parts of my note, this is not really an oxidative style in the mouth – like many champagnes today – simply a very delicious wine. The bottle won’t last long!
Rebuy – Yes

a late afternoon walk around corton…


It’s not just the vines that need some pruning in Corton!

Beautiful 20-22°C weather late this afternoon – so at 4pm we took ourselves for a wander around Corton – a number of pictures seemed to focus on Le Corton…
 

the last few days on tour…

A collection of images from this week – the obligatory bud-burst picture above from today in Mâcon-Cruzilles – so chardonnay. Cruzilles is a relatively cool spot, so not so advanced as Meursault, for example. Versus an ‘average year’ the vines are about 10 days ahead so far in 2017. I toured some of the vines with Emmanuel Guillot-Broux and found the horse working in a parcel of Cruzille called Le Chassagne – nothing to do with the Côte d’Or, rather old French for the oaks at the top of the hill – les chênes…
 

2009 château des jacques oak-a-go-go

2009 Château des Jacques, Moulin à Vent
Champ de Cour

Still quite a deep colour, not too much maturity. The nose is large, forward, sweet and cushioned – but this potentially delicious red fruit is still completely wrapped in vanilla oak – how did that happen?! This is supple and round with juicy, sweet fruit on the palate – like the nose this is seemingly delicious until the finish catches up with you – which is also a long line of vanilla flavour. I’m frankly amazed – first and last this wine still has too much vanilla – it seems that it will never fade. Beware all your gamay-based wines that ‘seem‘ to have too much vanilla but you decide to give them the benefit of the doubt because they are ‘young’ – it seems that they actually do have too much vanilla oak. Stuck!
Rebuy – No

another gratuitous bud burst…

Yesterday Volnay, today Moulin à Vent’s (Jadot’s) Clos du Grand Carquelin – all here is clearly a week or-so ahead of the Côte d’Or, and apparently we are about 2 weeks ahead of a ‘normal year‘ – whatever one of those is…

Despite the blue sky and sunshine, today was markedly chilly – a strong north wind – it felt much colder than the 15°C on the thermometer. Beaujolais doesn’t seem to be suffering from all those bud-eating caterpillars in the Côte d’Or. I can see a day in the Mâconnais coming tomorrow – all in the interests of science – oh, and drinking wine! 🙂

the force is strong with this one…

Today in the Clos Santenots.

Pinot is always behind the chardonnay in terms of who has leaves and flowers, but the pinot is starting to push now….

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