“Identity is a hard-won thing”

By billn on March 02, 2023 #warning - opinion!


I know that I’ve bored you on this subject before but it’s something of an evergreen – articles popping out of the woodwork years after the idea has been put forward. But that works both ways – it also gives me the opportunity to vent once more 😉

Indeed, identity IS a hard-won thing.

The thing is, that Burgundy IS that identity in the English-speaking (Anglophone) world, an identity that has been honed over many, many generations, in many, many magazines and in many, many books and by generations of winemerchants.

Is it not enough that we have to endure the LouisVuittonification of the wines and, slowly, also the themeparkification of the Côte d’Or? Now they want us to change a name that means something inalienable to so many people.

I can’t discount that it could be my age that’s to blame but I simply say no!

Adieu – Auberge Col du Truges

By billn on February 28, 2023 #sad losses...

Col du Truges

Very sad news last week – which I forgot to post on – but obviously remembered when out and about in Beaujolais this week.

This restaurant is now formally closed after the death of the proprietor/chef.

A place with the ambience of a truck-stop but also a place of pilgrimage for their plate of coq au vin rouge – a dish of which I’m sure I will never see the like again…

Thanks for the memories…

More Beaujolais pics…

By billn on February 26, 2023 #travels in burgundy 2023

That’s my second of three weeks of visits done, and all being well, by Friday, I’ll have bagged about 75 domaines and their 21s. As is always the case with my February timing, some domaines have already sold-out of a large part of their 21s and are starting to present some from 2022. Even some that are already bottled!

Back on the road for part 3 at 05h00 tomorrow!

Weekend wine: Camille Giroud 2009 Bourgogne Cuvée L

By billn on February 25, 2023 #degustation

2009 Camill Giroud Bourgogne Cuvée L
Week(-end) 8 2023:

Ah, my memory is going – it must be my age!

I found this 2009 in the cellar (and there’s more!) and thought to myself ‘well, I have 2008 and 2010 but I don’t remember having any 2009.‘ Fortunately the search function of this site has a much better memory than I!

2009 wasn’t my favourite vintage to start – it was just sooo ripe. Given that almost every vintage since 2015 has been equally, or more, ripe – perhaps I’m more tolerant – despite my old age!

2009 Camille Giroud, Bourgogne Cuvée L
A beautiful, darker, Trescases cork – robust and with hardly 1mm of wine ingress – the end so darkly painted by this wine.
Medium-plus colour. The nose is now a little smoky – it gives the impression of oak – but swirling releases redder fruit and perhaps something floral too – these aromas are concentrated and, of course, ripe – but never too ripe. Broad over the palate, the merest ripple of tannin in support. A luxurious depth of flavour and texture – obviously not really ‘Bourgogne.’ Holding well in the finish too. This wine is crystal clear/clean, aromatic and with such generosity of top-class flavour. It’s absolutely drinkable yet still a baby. Bravo! – It must have been very well triaged 😉
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – Dugat-Py 2021

By billn on February 23, 2023 #the market

From my usual Swiss merchant with, where offered, the price of their 2020s and 2019s are in brackets, also from the same merchant, the last two years. — indicates not offered:

Domaine Dugat-Py 2021
Monthelie Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl — (89.00*, —) Swiss Francs

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux Vieilles-Vignes 75cl — (119.00, —)
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 198.00 (198.00, —)

Pommard VV La Levrière 75cl — (149.00, 139.00)
Pommard Les Vaumuriens Hauts Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 169.00 (168.00, —)

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 119.00 (119.00, 99.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur du Roy Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 159.00 (159.00, 149.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 75cl — (188.00, 149.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 75cl 325.00 (315.00, 265.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru 75cl 325.00 (355.00, 265.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru 75cl 369.00 (355.00, 265.00)

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 558.00 (545.00, 475.00)
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 645.00 (599.00, —)
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 885.00 (850.00, —)

*As usual, these are delivered prices but without the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%. Remarkable restraint don’t you think?…!

For those of you wondering about (most of) the Côte de Beaune wines, these are rented from the no-longer-existing Domaine Christopher Newman.

2021 Chablis

By billn on February 20, 2023 #reports

Asperions - Chablis 06 April 2021Online – Januray 2023’s Burgundy Report:

2021 Chablis
Nearly 60 domaines – and there are more visits to be made in a couple of weeks!
A summary of the vintage and its weather – plus, of course, the best domaines and the very best wines.
I hope that you will all enjoy it!

2021 Chablis – Out of adversity, the great and the good:

There are also a few follow-up visits in Puligny-Montrachet and a report from November’s Roi Chambertin to keep you busy too 😉

sad, but…

By billn on February 19, 2023 #reports

The best kind of sad email 😉

wines – weekend 7 2023

By billn on February 19, 2023 #degustation

wines - week 07 2023

2019 Raphaël Chopin, Beaujolais-Lantignié Blanc Theia
Lemon yellow. An easy nose, attractive depth and some interest – that’s a nice start. A supple width of sweet flavour then a wave with saline accents before a more mineral finish – slowly mouth-watering. I’d guess blind that it was a Beaujolais from the rigour of this finishing minerality but it’s not too strong and this is a very good BJVB!
Rebuy – No

1999 Jean-Marc Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Dominode
Not only this bottle, I seem to have an unopened 6-pack too – so no excuse for not opening one! Only 20 years older than the white!
This still has deep colour – and not too much browning either. The first impression from this nose is of soil and blood – with plenty of air it takes on a more attractive and fruity (red) impression but remains a slightly young (but clean!) aromatic. In the mouth I like the shape – there’s the cool, still austere, impression given by most Savigny of this era – but this is structurally very fine and, like the nose, it’s very clean – there’s no bret. Even on day two – no degradation – a clean and very impressive wine – I just wish that it was more delicious – but it seems very youthful!
Rebuy – Maybe

2020 Château de la Terrière, Brouilly Tradition
Open, airy – lovely dark-red fruit – slowly becoming floral too. Extra juicy – ooh that’s a super wine – the energy visible in all directions, visibly making the finish longer and more dynamic. What a wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 des Chézeaux/Berthaut-Gerbet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
For a warm vintage, this colour is not so deep – medium-plus. A broad and aromatic nose – a hint of the spice of the vintage but not too much – seemingly silky and slowly adding depth with more air. Large-scale in the mouth – easy over the palate but there’s some structure here too – the flavour becoming more and more intense. 2015 is a long way from my favourite vintage but here’s a wine with energy and a really nice, sinewy, shape. Longer in the glass and it seems ever-more delicious. Modest finishing bitters and just a faint wash of tannin showing through those bitters. Super-long. I have at least one more but based on this – for drinking in another 10 years. It’s more than excellent for the vintage – it’s also very tasty!
Rebuy – Yes

This week – plus some pics from Beaujolais

By billn on February 16, 2023 #beaujolais#reports#travels in burgundy 2023

A successful week of typing at home – my 2021 Chablis report is done and will go online on Sunday, plus – I’m also shocked(!) – my first week of 2021 Beaujolais visits is also fully typed – all 22 visits!

But there are 60 more visits to complete in the next two weeks – so don’t expect that report to be online before the end of March – particularly as the first week of March sees a return to Chablis as I ‘only’ managed to visit 60 domaines in January!

Now I’m going to start pruning a tree in the garden – in the frost – brr! Of course, today is Thursday – which is my start to the weekend – so I must make a quick(?) visit to the cellar 😉

First, some week 1 (last week) mainly Beaujolais pics!

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