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a weekend wine or two – week 5 2019

I love my snow, but don’t you also just love getting 15 cm of the stuff the day before you have to set off, very early, to Beaujolais? Hopefully the roads are not all stuffed – it’s only 350 km to Moulin-à-Vent…

2012 François Gaunoux, Pommard 1er Grands Epenots
Depth of colour. The nose is a little tight – at least in the width – with modest floral top notes and a decent depth of darker red fruit. Incisive, clean flow of flavour, but certainly a little tight today – very tasty wine for sure and with decent intensity too but only hinting at the depth that Grands Epenots should show – that said, it is very ‘current 2012’ in that respect. Clean, tasty, with nice lines – but wait a while longer if you want more communication from your glass. The depth of flavour in the finish is really quite promising.
Rebuy – Yes – but wait 3-5 more years…

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
I’m not sure how many of these remain from my original case, but it’s 2-3 years since I last tasted one, so…
Under the LED lights of my kitchen table, there’s very little difference between the depth of colour of this, and the Grands Epenots. This nose has much more width of aroma, but a little less depth – the width being rather complex and attractive though. Reflecting the nose, the palette of flavours is significantly wider, if not deeper – but today, at least, this is on a completely different level of complexity and length of flavour – I have to say, that from a modest start, the flavour of this is quite something – almost a peacock’s tail of a finish. I’ve had some bretty bottles of this cuvée – but at least in the first hour from opening – and it didn’t last much longer than that – this bottle showed none of that.
Rebuy – Yes!

As my better half puts it, the Potel tastes old, she prefers the clean lines of the Gaunoux, though was seemingly happy to take the last pour from the Potel 😉

offer of the day – faiveley 2017…

Whilst I may have missed the 14s, here you can see the ‘progression’ of same merchant’s prices (in Switzerland) for the 12s, 13s, 15s, 16s and now the 2017s. The format here for the prices is simple: 2017 (2016, 2015, 2013, 2012) and — if not previously offered…

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2017 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Pommard Rugiens 2017 75cl 75.00 (86.00, —)
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Issarts 2017 75cl 69.00 (—)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2017 75cl 79.00 (84.00, 78.00, 72.50, 69.80) Swiss Francs*
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2017 150cl 163.00 (173.00, 161.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2017 75cl 99.00 (115.00, 98.00, 98.00, 98.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2017 150cl — (235.00, —)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2017 75cl 125.00 (135.00, 128.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2017 75cl 119.00 (132.00, 124.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2017 75cl 199.00 (249.00, 229.00, 228.00, 228.00)

GRAND CRUS
Corton Clos des Cortons 2017 75cl 149.00 (169.00, 149.00, 139.00, 139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2017 150cl 303.00 (343.00, 303.00, 283.00, 283)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2017 300cl 656.00 (736.00, 656.00, —, —)
Echezeaux 2017 75cl — (165.00, 149.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2017 75cl 178.00 (198.00, 179.00, 167.00, 169)
Mazis-Chambertin 2017 150cl 361.00 (401.00, 363.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2017 300cl 776.00 (852.00, 776.00, —, —)
Grands Echezeaux 2017 75cl 188.00 (208.00, 198.00, 198.00, —)
Charmes-Chambertin 2017 75cl — (165.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2017 75cl 165.00 (189.00, —)
Clos de Vougeot 2017 75cl — (159.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2017 75cl 249.00 (299.00, 278.00, 249.00, 235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2017 150cl 503.00 (603.00, 561.00, 503.00, 475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2017 300cl 1,056.00 (1,256.00, 1,172.00, —, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2017 75cl 698.00 (745.00, 659.00, 598.00, 598)

Bâtard-Montrachet 2017 75cl — (298.00, —)
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet 2017 75cl — (269.00, —)
Corton Charlemagne 2017 75cl 189.00 (189.00, 169.00, 169.00, 159)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

The first really significant price decreases that I have seen for 2017 – that said, the prices have only dropped to be in-line with 2015, though the quality is more that of 2014 – still, 2012-2015 were relatively stable prices chez Faiveley for this merchant. Only the Charlemagne seems to ‘justify’ the higher prices of yore…

changes at domaine de la romanée-conti

Received from the domaine this morning:

“Following the early death of her cousin, Mr Henry-Frédéric Roch, who had been the Domaine’s co-director representing the Leroy Family since 1992 besides Aubert de Villaine, Mrs Perrine Fenal was appointed by her family and nominated by the Domaine shareholders’ meeting of January 23rd 2019 to take this position.
Perrine has always felt deeply attached to the Domaine on both a professional and personal level. When she was a child, she often accompanied her grand-father, Henri Leroy, and then her mother, Lalou Bize-Leroy.
Between 1992 and 2004 she was the Domaine’s exclusive importer and distributor in the French-speaking part of Switzerland. In 2004 she was appointed to replace her aunt, Mrs Pauline Roch, at the supervisory board. Mrs Isabelle Roch, Pauline Roch’s daughter and Henry-Frédéric Roch’s sister, will replace her in this position.”

dublère’s 2015 côte de léchet

Next week will be the start of lots of visits and tastings in Beaujolais – but conversely, much less actual wine drinking! Another from this week:

2015 Domaine Dublère, Chablis 1er Côte de Léchet
Some golden colour here. Fresh, concentrated yellow fruit, ripe lemon and more, though not much in the way of seashore. In the mouth this starts with attack before you slide, once more, into a ripe citrus, a mineral citrus, there are small finishing waves of flavour too. Incisive, concentrated, delicious chardonnay – yes! – but, if I might observe, not overtly Chablis!
Rebuy – Maybe

2014 berthaut-gerbet / chézeaux – lavaux

Much nicer than the 2014 Ponsot of a few days ago…

2014 Berthaut-Gerbet / Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Ooh, that’s a deep colour. Wide and deeply aromatic – almost a grain of texture to the sumptuously dark fruit. Mouth-filling, silky, growing with both direction and intensity – super length. Such a dark-fruited baby that starts sumptuously before following a fine and fresh line of flavour through the middle and into the finish – so open and delicious today. Bravo, a great 2014!
Rebuy – Yes

this week so far – a brace of jcb

2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants
A satisfyingly strong cork is a good start, but a nose such as this takes it to the next level – deep, almost a licorice frame to the dark fruit. Fine volume in the mouth, width, dark fruit that’s redolent of the nose, a modest baseline of tannin – a little plushness to the texture. Layered and über-delicious finishing – such a shame that I only have one more of these. The finish has a little bitter chocolate – some dark, almost dissolved, wood here. Great premier cru – it would make many grand crus blush! Another 5 years needed for optimum drinking, but this bottle did not last the whole night!
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Jean-Claude Boisset, Nuits St.Georges Aux Lavières
Decent depth of colour, though starting to show some age. Wide, sweet dried leaves, perhaps a hint of cocoa-powder. Medium weight, some direction, mocha-tinged fruit. The barrel is showing here, but so is plenty of sweetness from the fruit. A modest touch of tannin on the end of the tongue, and actually quite good length. A tasty wine, like the last still showing some of its elevage but very tasty. If I could choose only one, it would be the 2006. But this is very tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – louis jadot 2017

DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT 2017

As always, from my locval, Swiss merchant. First the 2016 and then 2015 offer prices in the brackets to compare, and — means not offered)

Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2017 75cl 59.00* (59.00, 55.00) (Swiss Francs)
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2017 150cl 123.00
Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2017 75cl 69.50 (69.50, —)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2017 75cl 79.50 (79.50, 79.00)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2017 150cl 164.00
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2017 75cl 79.50 (79.50, 79.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2017 150cl 164.00
Chambolle-Musigny Fuées 1er Cru 2017 75cl 85.00 (—)
Chambolle-Musigny Baudes 1er Cru 2017 75cl 85.00 (—)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017 75cl 139.00 (138.00, 128.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017 150cl 283.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2017 75cl 149.00 (145.00, 138.00)
Echézeaux Grand Cru 2017 75cl 159.00 (—)
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (188.00, 169.00)
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (269.00, 259.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 75cl 339.00 (—)
Musigny Grand Cru 2017 75cl 795.00 (—)

Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru 2017 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 88.00)
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2017 75cl 148.00 (139.50, 119.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2017 75cl 285.00 (—)
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2017 75cl 348.00 (—)
Montrachet Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (499.00, 428.00)

*Prices delivered, but without the 8% Swiss purchase tax…

Some cuvéees are ‘hidden’ by not being available in both vintages, but generally price holding rather than softening – though there are certainly many great wines here in this vintage.

icymi – new in the côte dijonnaise

Côte Dijonnaise – click the link for more info.

Anyone who frequents Beaune will likely know the name of Aegerter for their wine-shop, but they also have a domaine and maison based in Nuits St.Georges; here they annually vinify more than 50 hectares worth of grapes from a diverse selection of terroirs in the Côtes de Nuits, the Côte de Beaune, Chablis and the Mâconnais.

Domaine Aegerter are, it seems, hoping to resurrect the old Côte Dijonnaise climat of Rente de Giron, where they have acquired two hectares of vines that they have planted with chardonnay. The first vintage will be available following the 2022 harvest.

Aegerter, are part of a band of vignerons who are hoping to establish a new AOP – the AOP Côtes de Dijon – or maybe that should be ‘re-establish’ – good luck to them!

offer of the day – drouhin-laroze 2017

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE 2017 – En Primeur
Prices of the 2016s, from this time last year, in brackets. As each year from the same Swiss source.

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2017 75cl 49.50* (49.50) Swiss Francs
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-St-Jacques 1er Cru 2017 75cl 69.00 (65.00)

GRAND CRUS
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 75 cl 125.00 (119.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (125.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 75cl 149.00 (145.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 75cl 165.00 (158.00)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

One could say that these are relatively modest price increases versus those that we have become accustomed to, yet in 2017 the yields are not low, and the quality is good though far from great. Except that this domaine’s wines are relatively cheap vs the market averages, I see no reason for the increases from a volume or quality perspective.

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