Why Big Red Diary?

17 september – 2015 harvest day 14


Hooray! At 16h00 today, the rain stopped – so that was only 23 hours of rain…
That said, the sky remains very dark with just a few patches of blue – in fact it’s averaged several hours of rain per day since Saturday!

At the home domaine there is nothing to report – our last grapes are still on the vine, and it’s not certain if they will be picked on Friday or Saturday.


I’ll be signing-off from this series of reports just as soon as those grapes are sorted, but for info on the ferments, and something of the analytics of the 2015 vintage, I’ll include that in my September report.

16 september – 2015 harvest day 13

For those who were asking, here’s the difference between (very ripe) pinot noir and pinot gris – locally called pinot beurot – from Charmes-Chambertin today.
[2x life-size]

We wake to rain – not particularly heavy, but unyielding. It’s still raining when our first truck of grapes arrives from Gevrey-Chambertin – avec nos Charmes-Chambertin – I bet the cases will be rather muddy (again) too! As it turns out the cases are in good shape – this grower fills them differently to the one in Marsannay.

DSC07888Our grower’s Charmes is always something of a challenge to triage as it’s normally full of rot. This year, hardly a sight of rot – maybe a dozen bunches from many pallets of fruit – and they have also managed the oïdium better than most too, I found only 2 or 3 bunches in the 2 hour session of triage – chapeau! The grapes are dark and ripe, and it seems to me that they were needing to be picked – any hard handling and the berries begin to part with their stems – but yet again, what stems! Like the yesterday’s Marsannay, approaching brown/red colour for many – really lignified. I’ve never seen that before, but it’s really just these last two appellations that have presented themselves in such a way. These are our only grapes of the day – half the cleaning is done before lunch, the rest after. Fortunately today we triaged just a little longer than we cleaned!

Halfway through our triage there was sunshine but also an ever-growing force of wind. After lunch the floors of Beaune are littered with discarded branches and hundreds of horse chestnuts – the temperature was impressive too, whilst this wind alone could easily dry the vines, the temperature was well over 20°C – warmer outdoors than in. In Switzerland we would call this a Föhn wind, the Swiss also took this word for a hairdryer! Our forecasters suggested thunder and lightning would return by 19h00, so I went jogging at 16h30 – the thunder and first drops of rain started before I was back – and I was only out for 30 minutes. Rain returned with a vengence about 18h30.

Will our last appellation arrive tomorrow? It seems not, the talk is now of Friday or even Saturday – hmm – our Paulée is planned for Friday, and I’m not sure it’s allowed to bring in grapes after the Paulée. Tough decisions await 😉

(Part of!) Lunch:


I said it was windy! :

15 september – 2015 harvest day 12

Lavaux St.Jacques.

The finishing-line is in sight now, but today we’re just going to focus on more Marsannay Les Longeroies and one of Gevrey’s bigger guns – Lavaux St.Jacques. Still, it won’t be very much fun cutting grapes today, due to multiple showers of rain overnight – but by 09h00 the streets and pavements of Beaune are almost dry.

As our first cases arrive – Lavaux (some say/type Lavaut) St.Jacques, it’s clear that conditions in the vines were less than perfect; the fruit in the cases is fine, but to the sides and the bottoms of those cases adheres plenty of mud – sorry, terroir! There’s a thought – over the last 40-50 years I wonder how much soil/mud from the Côte de Nuits has been washed down the drains of Beaune. Before that most fruit was processed locally as there simply wasn’t the ease of transportation of today. When our Marsannay arrives, if anything, the cases are muddier than we experienced with the Lavaux – and they were a pig to clean afterwards too!

It’s almost an anecdote, but the fruit was once-more excellent, I’ve really nothing more to add to the commentary from the previous days…

Tomorrow should have been our last day, but due to the rain – and it rained some today too – the sellers have slightly delayed some of their picking. So tomorrow it’s (only) Charmes-Chambertin…

14 september – 2015 harvest day 11


It’s a bit confusing I suppose, as it is the 11th day since we began harvesting, but it is only the 9th day of harvesting for our team as we did none on Saturday and Sunday.

The weekend had no grapes as the forecasts were for apocalyptic rain-storms and hail – some moderately heavy rain arrived on Saturday afternoon and lasted into the early evening, but a surprisingly lovely Sunday followed with ever-more blue sky, sunshine and 24°C in the afternoon. BANG – is that thunder? We had at least 2 hours of thunder and lightning in Beaune from about 5pm – for a minute or so, even 1cm sized hail after which the road outside my apartment resembled a river. Beaune received about 60mm of rain and apparently the fire-brigade were called out 50 times in 2 hours! Nobody has reported hail damage, or even hail in the Côte de Nuits, so those (including our) grapes that are still on the vine are probably okay.

The grapes might be okay, but those that were harvesting on both Saturday and Sunday had no fun at all – very muddy, wet conditions – some making references to Ypres or the Somme. I expect no better conditions today, even if it’s sunny. Yet the grapes will be perfectly fine – too soon picked after/during the rain to be affected by the extra water, or for the chance for rot to bloom in the warm and damp – but those that wait longer into the week? That will be trickier…

For our home team, we are planning to be finished on Wednesday. Today we have no morning grapes – though I’m unsure the wait will improve picking conditions, only the temperature. So an early lunch before ‘attack!’

A nice lunchtime selection – if hard to read, that black label is Dominique Laurent’s 1998 Gevrey Clos St.Jacques.

Lunch over and we start un-loading our Marsannay Longeroies from the truck and – BOOM! – the return of the thunder. Actually, not just thunder, heavy rain too. It lasts no more than 20 minutes and then slowly the sky becomes bluer and bluer – of-course the rain is back two hours later! The grapes are almost as good as my 2015 benchmark (the first parcel of bourgogne), but with stems that are a little yellower/browner. For the first time this year the call is heard – ‘whole clusters!’ We quickly remove the destemmer and then carry on. 60 case of fruit are quickly despatched. I saw little botrytis, little oïdium though also some unripe in a few cases of fruit. Overall, excellent! We have a second parcel of this same fruit, and I have to say it’s a little less good – more oïdium – yet the standard remains high. So less than a hundred case of fruit today and cleanup starts at 17h30 – despite only starting at 13h45!

Of-course, we have more tomorrow!

world of fine wine – two great articles…


I get to see copies of World of Fine Wine relatively infrequently – probably less than half of those issues that are published. I’m not pushed to improve on this ratio, as I often struggle to find articles to suit my interests, but the current issue (48) has a couple of beauties.

  • First, a relatively short article by Michel Bettane about Guy Accad. Accad has always been something of a personal hero for me and somebody I’d love to meet. I know he was a great pioneer in the vineyards, but this is often forgotten in preference for discussing his approaches in the cuverie – these were and still are more controversial, despite such a large uptake of many of his ideas in modern winemaking. Bettane was working in Burgundy at the time of Accad – also something I learned – so has super insight. I should also commend the translation, as I think Bettane doesn’t speak or certainly write English to this level.
  • Second, is an article on geology and the naming of rock-types/timescales – Alex Maltman makes a potentially dreary subject come alive, indeed his writing resounds with (my!) interest. A bigger, feature article this, and really worthy of your time. Alex seems the type of teacher we all wish we’d had during our studies, as his throwaway references to diverse topics such as radioactive decay are clarions of clarity and ease of understanding…

PS An honourable mention should go to Jon Wyand’s critique of Johan Bergund’s new book of photographs. Real, constructive, interesting discussion from a professional perspective!

saturday, beaune before the rain

It’s the first time I stole a look around the back of the Notre Dame – nice…

11 september – 2015 harvest day 8

Found on a single vine in Ladoix – there were other bunches, green like chardonnay with a fainter pink skin, but none of those were ripe. This almost all pink was ripe and sweet, with little extra flavour to define it though. It showed a very open bunch structure with large (minimum 2cm) grapes (melons). I asked about half a dozen locals – nobody had any idea what it was.

Ouf! It’s already Friday – where did all the time go?

Really our biggest day, volume-wise, but aided by an early start and fruit that essentially needed minimal trie – sometimes unripe bunches (Ladoix) or sometimes a little dried fruit (Beaune 1er Avaux), or sometimes a little rot (Hautes Côtes de Beaune) yet we had the opportunity for the triage table to run at full speed – the first time this harvest. We were even finished rather early – 19h30! You know(?) there’s almost nothing else to say about today – very fine fruit indeed – still a vintage of very consistent bunches, not small berries but no melons either.

Lots of grapes today, but not so many words. One thing to note, however, despite a little sulfur added into the tank, and temperatures in those tanks of 10-12°C, we already have two reds beginning to ferment!

Nex week we have only 5 more lots of grapes to come for these 2015s, theoretically on Monday through to Wednesday, but with some heavy rain on Saturday, heavier on Sunday, and now the forecast for rain creeping into Monday too – that looks like a moving target for now. One thing is for sure though, no grapes on Saturday and Sunday!

10 september – 2015 harvest day 7

Subtitled: Start your day with Santenay!

I had some great photos lined-up today, but due to the health and safety issues involved, I thought it just as well to keep the camera ‘holstered!’

Another healthy, clean tranche of grapes this morning – all from Santenay. There were only two or three isolated clusters with oïdium, a little easy to triage rot plus some weeding out of the unripe. Here was a reasonable amount of pinot gris, and the first I’ve seen that was universally ripe too – maybe the pinot gris is a little longer ripening this year(?) Perhaps a little too much reggae music though – it’s still cold in the morning, and you’re never going to get warm trying to dance to that! 😉

Then came a parcel of Gevrey-Chambertin ‘villages’ that was good too – not the smallest clusters but it fairly whizzed through the triage table, this time with virtually no oïdium. Our last appellation was Maranges 1er Cru – it seems to be on the triage table for ages – but that was probably because there was more than three tonnes of it – here also was plenty of healthy looking pinot gris, but to taste it simply wasn’t ripe. We finished triage just 10 minutes earlier than yesterday, but for various reasons, we finished our clean-up later. Oh-well – 21h45 isn’t too late for a refreshing glass of something, is it(?)!

There’s rain forecast for the weekend, so probably no grapes on Saturday or Sunday, and that also means that tomorrow could be our biggest grape-reception day of the harvest – woo-hoo!!!

mark: domaine arlaud’s harvest diary, wednesday…

Arlaud Vendange Day 3 – Weds 9th Sept 2015

Quick recap back to day two – did I mention in referencing the Morey Village that such included Morey Clos Solon ? It did/does, where I believe Arlaud both own vines but certainly have negoce fruit available. The Clos Solon fruit we harvested Tuesday was top notch, again little or rather no sign of rot in what is a lower lying location not usually immune and, for those ‘obsessed’ with just ‘super star’ names, the likes of one J-M Fourrier surely cannot have done better.

Anyways, today turned into one of those special vendange days, to be followed by Thursday, in terms of sites picked, moving around (for ‘recovery’ purposes), and variety. The weather continued to be just about perfect, if anything just a bit too hot, where a little more breeze or cooler temps would have been just right ! I was by now hearing rumours of bad weather for the coming weekend but for now all was serene in our world.

For me, today prompted the random thought (amazing what one can think about while picking) that this was the 40th anniversaire of joining my banking employers, albeit pre a take over and other rafts of changes over the years. Not something to celebrate in my ‘book’, instead maybe a bit sad. I almost looked for something else on several occasions but stuck with it. To now be away from the UK and be able to avoid any mention, or highlighting, of it suited me just down to the ground – Charmes-Chambertin the first today ! I’ll say no more about my employers etc as I would not want to get into any ‘trouble’ !! Maybe another 2-4 years will be such to see me decide enough is enough and pack it all in at last. More opportunities then to visit the likes of the Cote more often and plenty of wine to be drunk ! Alongside one anniversary this year is that this is my 10th harvest (my 8th at Arlaud) which strikes me in context of my banking day job’s 40 yrs as almost incredible. Those 10 years of vendanges have just flown by ! Seems almost like yesterday I was almost cutting my left hand index finger off in 2006 in Domaine du Duc de Magenta’s Chassagne Morgeot vineyard after a chance conversation with Amelie MacMahon, la Duchesse, that August.

As another little aside I’d by now noticed Cyprien A had a ‘new’ car. Well, not a brand new one, as he was atypically at pains to emphasise to me when I admired it, but a very nice Volvo V50 Estate in a hard to define colour but very dark blue (or blue/black metallic). Has very nice, almost BBSesque spoked wheels – all in all a handsome car. All the time I’ve known him C has driven an ancient looking small Opel (Vauxhall Corsa – in the UK) hence I was pleased for him at his quiet pride in this ‘upgrade’. Wife Carol drives the other family vehicle, also owned several years, a Renault Espace, doubtless essential to the family size etc. The sub text to the above is that, whilst other CdN vignerons might have not one, but two, helicopter(s), or drive BMW X6 or similar, the Arlauds have no signs of overt wealth, or in no way show it, are the antithesis of ‘flash’ or ostentatious, and for me are all the more plausible, real, genuine, likeable etc etc.

One evening Cyprien and I got onto the question of extra vineyard land (have no recall of how I might have raised this !) where C was directly honest in saying to me there was no way the domaine could, or would attempt to, afford any decent parcel/plot which is why I guess the negoce stuff emerged in 2013. Cyprien went onto discuss with me how the only probably realistic route to vineyard acquisition would be with an investor e.g with my then prompting him with the names of the likes of Francois Feuillet (associated with/wines made by David Duband) or the Murray Tawse/Pascal Marchand tie up.

Conversation moved on from the above to my suggesting that the current domaine vineyards must have very substantial value and as such the family, as others, could well sell up and live happily ever after without the admirable farming / wine making commitment. This was a bit naughty by me, whilst semi serious, but I’ve known Cyprien long/well enough now to convey in such a way he could see where I was coming from without taking offence. As it happens he agreed with me in terms of lying on a beach somewhere such as French Polynesia but otherwise shrugged and smiled his enigmatic smile, in effect conveying without words that it’s the family vocation being taken forward for the family legacy. He went on to suggest that his oldest daughter shows some interest but she’s way too young yet but I’m sure he’d be thrilled if the next generation would continue.

Sorry ! You want to hear about vineyards, grapes, wine etc I guess ? Well, as above, the very top section of Charmes-Chambertin, not quite directly across the road from Latricieres, was our early start focus. I’m bitterly regretting not taking any grape photos here as, continually banging on aside, the grapes here were just fantastic, maybe the best of the vendange. I’ve honestly never seen anything like them from this vineyard before. The vines are ancient, I think averaging around 80 yrs old, Cyprien subsequently telling me the oldest was 95 yrs old. Other than their appearance you’d never guess from the fruit volume this year just how old are these veterans. The reason for lack of photos was I just didn’t consider I had time to stop because, as a team we just moved at almost lightning speed down these rows. The vines were trained such that the bunch presentation, and without overt foliage as an issue elsewhere (e.g lower Clos St Denis), made cutting a quick fire dream. If I were to make a mental note for only one future purchase from this vintage based on grapes seen then Charmes would be the one. We were soon back at the road side and taking a break whilst the cases were sorted out with both camions (trucks away at the cuverie/en route at once). Another domaine’s vendangeurs arrived just up the road on a single decker bus (!), accompanied by covered truck which went into the vines, plus what was presumably the boss in a BMW X6. This turned out to be Domaine Jacques Prieur (spelling ?), Meursault.

We left them to it and foregoing our own vehicles Herve walked us on foot along the road towards Morey to the roadside edge of Gevrey 1er cru Combottes. As long as I can recall the Arlaud vendange as always started with this terroir, until this year. Whatever, the vines here are average 40/45 years old, and again just looked superb. Some level of rot is not usually uncommon here either but all I saw this year was a little bit just once where two bunches had become intertwined. Combottes was notable, as it is every year, albeit this one maybe more so, for the incidence of millerandage. Have I said how many of there were this year ? We eventually ended up with a register of 55 names (am not sure if this covered the triage table two ladies – presumably didn’t include the domaine permanent, non family, staff of four). Whilst odd folk were missing odd days we had a substantial gang which, other than myself and the four young Poles from last year who were to arrive Friday from Beaujolais, were all French. Most regulars, just a number of new faces. One could tell the team was larger than past years by the population of the confectoire dining room at lunchtime !!! If you happened to be one of the selfless souls who, arriving back at base at lunchtime, voluntarily took it upon themselves to clean buckets, secateurs etc then when it came to getting your own, trestle table lunch space such was easier said than done – that is until we quickly wised up and Breton Annie saved 3 spaces for herself, husband Augustin (‘Tin Tin’), and moi. The core bucket washers were Tin Tin, longtime regular Dede, and myself. Initially in our first five days bucket cleaning was not unduly onerous given the dry ground but all that was to change later (and how !). I mention the size of the team as for Combottes, as happened elsewhere on several occasions the ratio of bodies to number of rows enable us to be two, or sometimes three to a row spread at suitable intervals. In Combottes we were two to a row, with myself in a group who were sent half way along the rows to start, and thus ended up finishing at the top on a little grassy plateau whilst fruit was collected/organised to be transported back down. Photo opportunities existed here leading to inveterate joker, Jean-Pierre Feral, taking it upon himself to pose for me with a large vine leaf ‘strategically’ held below waist level to cover suggested ‘modesty’. Pic to be amongst those for Bill.

After Combottes we moved another short, on foot, distance to Clos de la Roche (just one of those ‘average’ terroir days !). I can’t remember much about this now other than I think here I was amongst a group moving down slope in our rows rather than the usual up. The vines nearest the road for Combottes, CdlR, and Clos St Denis all featured greater vine foliage (thus need for aggressive leaf stripping to avoid no bunches missed), and greater ground cover plants or weeds, the nearer one was to the road/bottom of the slope, the converse being true as one climbed the slope.

To take us up to lunch we whipped through Morey 1er cru ‘Blanchards’, adjacent to the Domaine Odoul-Coquard outbuildings. This terroir lives up to its name in terms of the number of white/pale coloured stones within the earth. Again, I’ve deliberately taken a photo of ‘my’ row to give an idea. By now this was turning into a seriously hot day ! My notebook simply records “hot, hot, hot” for the afternoon but, to end the morning session, we were glad to finish Blanchards for the very short distance back to base on this side of the village.

Afternoon was a session for adjacent crus on the other side of the village. The sun was by now beating down ! I think it was this afternoon (if not was Thursday) I consumed two full bottles of water of my own plus any cups on offer at rest points. The order here was Chambolle 1er cru Noirots, Chambolle 1er cru ‘Sentiers’ (part), and finally Morey 1er cru ‘Ruchots’ (part) . All looking good. I was a bit dischuffed at myself from the top of Sentiers, against the wall below the road (with Bonnes Mares GC across the road), to start walking back down the rows towards our vehicles without realising until about halfway that the others had moved along the wall to Ruchots doh ! A long, hot, slow retracing trudge !

That evening I had a look at the Gevrey Combottes fruit in tank with Cyprien. I’d been meaning to ask about his policy this year at the use of stalks as quite a number of bunches had come away easily, some without needing cutting suggesting to me (doubtless I’m wrong) but that the stalks were ripe. I know he’s experimented in the past albeit not going as far as other domains e.g Dujac where C is friendly with Jeremy Seysses. For Combottes whilst we gazed into the tank Cyprien, whilst suggesting volume was down on 2014, and highlighted the extent of millerandage we were looking at, told me in terms of stalks he was going 25%-30%. In terms of stalks he told me he was looking for green coloured one’s, with plenty of chlorophyll, and no bitterness – at this point he handed me a bit of stalk to chew asking me what I could taste. Not a lot really other than something a bit woody but certainly nothing bitter ! Cyprien went on to say sometimes one could taste a hint liquorice.

So, that was a lovely day three. More of the same or similar for day four and maybe my personal highlight this year to come.

09 september – 2015 harvest day 6

A late-ish finish yesterday, so only chance to type this the day after.

Despite our expectations of a very late finish, it was only a late finish – 21h30. We found a couple of libations to relax afterwards! The reason for the earlier than expected finish is the pinot yield. Before harvesting, looking at the vines it seemed to all the growers (and observers!) that yields would not be massive, but would be okay – though still very low in areas which were 3x hailed as those vines haven’t fully recovered – but reality is different. Very common are yields of only 2/3rds what people expected – it’s not really down to berry size as the average is not so small, and millerandes are much less common this year – there’s some head-scratching from producers.

We had a big new contract this year for fruit for bourgogne rouge, I won’t say where from, but what a coup. This fruit looked better than the vast majority of grapes that ever pass along the triage table – a big round of applause for this grower! – and I certainly include grand crus in that statement. Simply a pleasure to triage: no oïdium, very, very little rot, very little dried berries – I’ll say it again, a pleasure.

Our Vosne-Romanée looked similarly great in the cases as it waited for triage, but on the table we had to deal with quite a lot of oïdium – it’s insidious and very hard to triage as it creeps into parts of bunches but (seemingly!) not the rest of the bunch – or it simply frizzles whole bunches. The clusters look like they’ve been breathed-on by death-eaters. I eat plenty of grapes along the way, but not so much when this is on the table. Still some parts of this were fine and we selected about 4 or 5 cases of good-looking whole-clusters for the fermentation.

Clean-up expedited and it’s only 21h30 – what unexpected fortune – though only because we had fewer cases of fruit than were expected!

mark: domaine arlaud’s harvest diary, tuesday…


Arlaud Vendange Day Two – Tuesday, 08 09 2015

Time is at an absolute premium during one’s vendange, and I’m not joking. I don’t know how Bill does what he does (seriously) with the website as well as his ‘main’ duties 😉 .

Quick snapshot of how my day goes:- up at 5.00 a.m, ablutions, sometimes with wet shave sometimes not, get my clothes sorted for the day plus my other ‘stuff’ i.e knee pads, that day’s left hand glove (don’t wear one on my secateur hand), get up the yard for brekkie (I just have coffee and a breakfast bar plus sometimes a banana), then we’re almost ready to go between 7.00 a.m. – 7.30 a.m. We work (hard !) until approx 12.00 then pile back into the vehicles to Morey Centre, get cleaned up, clean the buckets and secateurs (well, some of us do, funny how just a few of us do that), lunch, short siesta or whatever other thing you may need to attend to, then we go again about 1.30, maybe earlier. Work until close to 6.00 p.m. then same routine back. Here, in my case I might clean my gear quickly as well as top and tail myself, or just get changed quickly so as to dash to the cuverie for the wi-fi (for Burgundy Report, nowt else). Head back to the village for about 8.00 p.m for dinner with my fellow lodgers then bed unless I do more tech work e.g photo downloads. One sleeps well, at least I do, i.e as soon as my head hits the pillow !

Back to Tuesday’s vines matters. After a rather leisurely Monday the full team arrived Tuesday a.m. Mostly very familiar by now faces, just a few new youngsters and one or two older. A group of 4 ladies stand out – I’m guessing mother and three grown up daughters. More of them later . Evereybody’s French except moi, just how I like it !

As regards work in the vines this was largely a Villages day, and unremarkable except for a) it was a lovely warm, sunny, dry day again (very hot in the afternoon !); b) the village grapes were all uniformly excellent. No rot at all (for me anyway – remarkable). They varied from great big pendulous bunches to small fiddly bits of millerandage (and everthing, but clean, in between). Just bits of odium; c) Volume seemed pretty good but Cyprien was to tell me later its down on 2014 – but I’ll check back in on this later.

Just on the 2014’s I’ve heard and read little so far on the wines from that year and am keen to learn more from my man’s perspective but he has briefly told me he likens them to 2002. Again, I’m intent on finding out more and maybe having a taste or two. But, I just wonder if 2014 might be a ‘Cinderella’ vintage to 2015 ? We’ll see I guess but, such is the demand for Burgundy these days, surely to goodness there won’t be difficulties selling 2014 (will there ?) .

After a mostly Chambolle morning, part of it just to the south of Roumier’s Clos de la Bussiere, (and am led to believe we might have done all the Chambolle village but am not so sure my informant, Rene the truck driver, is correct at all – we’ll see) we went north of the village to do some long rows of again jaw droppingly fantastic fruit from some Morey Villages. And then to lunch. Apres lunch, back to Morey Village until late in the day when we had our first domaine owned premier cru action (other than Monday’s negoce Nuits). Well, what can I say ? The recipe is the same in terms of wow factor. I thought maybe 2014 was some way the best in terms of grapes in my 8 vendange in Morey but now I’m not so sure at all. In the likes of Millandes, Blanchards and Ruchots some elements of rot is the norm. Not this time monsieur ! This was a most enjoyable romp up slope in Millandes with only the day’s fatigue and stiff back weighing on the pleasure factor. I’ll shut up now, whiz this to Bill, and accompany it with some photos for hopefully you to adjudge fruit quality for yourself !

Lots of exciting stuff to come on Wednesday’s diary note including the first grand cru action and grand cru porn !

Oh, and the weather, whilst still good (if not better than that) is subtly changing I think. Haven’t seen a weather forecast but guess Bill has and will be spot on re Saturday and Sunday. Hum !


comte liger-beair, now in clos de vougeot flavour!

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair today posted pictures of him triaging his new purchase – grand cru Clos de Vougeot. Okay, you might just say ‘it’s a grape purchase’ but it’s a little more committed than that; it is a 10 year contract for fruit from organically managed mid-slope vines. I really can’t wait to see how it lines up in his cellar – despite it’s often dowdy reputation, I consider a top CV to be at least as good as a great Chambertin.

Let’s see!


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